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Old 10-10-2017, 06:55 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by futtyos View Post
Getrex, I agree with your first two sentences above. My question is why you wouldn't use Gardz over trim and doors? Specifically, why would you not use Gardz over factory pre-primed MDF trim and doors?
Dude. Take some fine grit sandpaper, and try to sand down something you gardzed. You will find out very quickly why its not a good idea to use it.
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Old 10-10-2017, 08:41 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by Woodco View Post
Dude. Take some fine grit sandpaper, and try to sand down something you gardzed. You will find out very quickly why its not a good idea to use it.
Woodco, while I will admit that Gardz does not sand to a powder, I am able to sand it well enough to get a smooth topcoat over MDF, which Gardz gets mostly sucked into anyway. If I apply too thick a coat of Gardz, I have found it a bit clogging to sand, so when I apply Gardz over the factory primed MDF I am carefull to roll thin coats so it doesn't gum up when nub sanding. I can see your point if I was spraying doors and trim, but I don't. The only time I use Gardz on doors or trim is when it is cheap factory primed MDF or if I have skim coated the door with Durabond. Rolling and brushing paint on top of Gardz over pre-primed MDF works very well for me. Perhaps there is something better to prime or seal over the cheap factory primer that goes over MDF. If anyone here at PT has done both Gardz and something better over pre-primed MDF, please let me know.

I have to repeat one of the main reasons I like Gardz so much. Years ago I used to strip and wax (acrylic finish actually) resilient flooring. I stripped one floor that had old and worn tiles. I put a coat of acrylic floor finish on and it left no shine except at near the walls where people had not walked. I put 2 more coats on and they both dissappeared into the floor. I went to my local janitorial supply house and asked what I could do. The owner told me that I needed to put down a sealer first, then the finish coats. I went back, stripped the floor, applied 2 good coats of acrylic floor sealer, then 3 coats of floor finish. The first coat of finish over the sealer looked shiny compared to without the sealer. The 2nd coat of finish made the floor even shinier. The 3rd coat made the floor look fabulous!

I used to clean offices. About 20 years ago some lawyers I cleaned for moved into a building with a stone floor in the entrance area. The stones were irregular and had thick, uneven grout lines between the stones that were very wide. The area was about 15' x 15'. I gave the owner a price of $500.00 to strip and finish the floor. He reluctantly agreed. While I was in the process of stripping the floor, he came by and could see the difference between the muddy unstripped floor and what I had stripped. He said it looked like night and day and followed that by saying that now he understood why I was charging so much after seeing how crappy the floor had become over the years before he bought the building. I struggled to get that floor very clean, then, since the floor was stone and very porous, I applied 3 coats of sealer and 3 coats of finish. That was 20 years ago. The floor still looks great and has never been refinished or had any more acrylic finish put onto it. If anyone here knows of walls or ceilings that get heavier abracive traffic than floors, please let me know.

When I first came across Gardz, I saw that it looked like acrylic floor finish and sealer, that it had the viscosity of acrylic floor finish and sealer and that it had the banana oil smell of acrylic floor finish and sealer. I was not surprised, then, to find out that Gardz was modeled after Scotch Paint's Draw-Tite which in turn was modeled after an acrylic concrete sealer.

Acrylic floor sealers and finishes are generally not sanded, so I can understand why some here do not like Gardz for this reason. All I can say is that perhaps because of my work background, I have a different view of what Gardz acts like and can do. If I was doing high end work with good materials to apply sealers, primers and finishes to, I wouldn't even have to think about using Gardz. MDF is low end crap that needs some creativity to be able to get a good finish on. If in fact you have geared this post to having problems with getting a desired finish onto pre-primed MDF doors, I hope you find a solution that you will share with us here.

In the meantime, dinner is waiting. Gardz soup! Deelish!

futtyos
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Old 10-10-2017, 11:25 PM   #83
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Fascinating
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Old 10-11-2017, 12:47 AM   #84
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Fascinating
Geeze... talk about a voice from my childhood! Good to hear from you again Dan.
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Old 10-11-2017, 08:16 AM   #85
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Man I thought I had a hard head...
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Old 10-12-2017, 12:13 AM   #86
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He used Gardz instead of shampoo once to keep things from leaking out...
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Old 10-12-2017, 12:27 AM   #87
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He used Gardz instead of shampoo once to keep things from leaking out...
Lololol
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Old 10-12-2017, 01:08 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by futtyos View Post
Woodco, while I will admit that Gardz does not sand to a powder, I am able to sand it well enough to get a smooth topcoat over MDF, which Gardz gets mostly sucked into anyway. If I apply too thick a coat of Gardz, I have found it a bit clogging to sand, so when I apply Gardz over the factory primed MDF I am carefull to roll thin coats so it doesn't gum up when nub sanding. I can see your point if I was spraying doors and trim, but I don't. The only time I use Gardz on doors or trim is when it is cheap factory primed MDF or if I have skim coated the door with Durabond. Rolling and brushing paint on top of Gardz over pre-primed MDF works very well for me. Perhaps there is something better to prime or seal over the cheap factory primer that goes over MDF. If anyone here at PT has done both Gardz and something better over pre-primed MDF, please let me know.

I have to repeat one of the main reasons I like Gardz so much. Years ago I used to strip and wax (acrylic finish actually) resilient flooring. I stripped one floor that had old and worn tiles. I put a coat of acrylic floor finish on and it left no shine except at near the walls where people had not walked. I put 2 more coats on and they both dissappeared into the floor. I went to my local janitorial supply house and asked what I could do. The owner told me that I needed to put down a sealer first, then the finish coats. I went back, stripped the floor, applied 2 good coats of acrylic floor sealer, then 3 coats of floor finish. The first coat of finish over the sealer looked shiny compared to without the sealer. The 2nd coat of finish made the floor even shinier. The 3rd coat made the floor look fabulous!

I used to clean offices. About 20 years ago some lawyers I cleaned for moved into a building with a stone floor in the entrance area. The stones were irregular and had thick, uneven grout lines between the stones that were very wide. The area was about 15' x 15'. I gave the owner a price of $500.00 to strip and finish the floor. He reluctantly agreed. While I was in the process of stripping the floor, he came by and could see the difference between the muddy unstripped floor and what I had stripped. He said it looked like night and day and followed that by saying that now he understood why I was charging so much after seeing how crappy the floor had become over the years before he bought the building. I struggled to get that floor very clean, then, since the floor was stone and very porous, I applied 3 coats of sealer and 3 coats of finish. That was 20 years ago. The floor still looks great and has never been refinished or had any more acrylic finish put onto it. If anyone here knows of walls or ceilings that get heavier abracive traffic than floors, please let me know.

When I first came across Gardz, I saw that it looked like acrylic floor finish and sealer, that it had the viscosity of acrylic floor finish and sealer and that it had the banana oil smell of acrylic floor finish and sealer. I was not surprised, then, to find out that Gardz was modeled after Scotch Paint's Draw-Tite which in turn was modeled after an acrylic concrete sealer.

Acrylic floor sealers and finishes are generally not sanded, so I can understand why some here do not like Gardz for this reason. All I can say is that perhaps because of my work background, I have a different view of what Gardz acts like and can do. If I was doing high end work with good materials to apply sealers, primers and finishes to, I wouldn't even have to think about using Gardz. MDF is low end crap that needs some creativity to be able to get a good finish on. If in fact you have geared this post to having problems with getting a desired finish onto pre-primed MDF doors, I hope you find a solution that you will share with us here.

In the meantime, dinner is waiting. Gardz soup! Deelish!

futtyos
You may be a Gardzahohic, I not sure but AA may have a program for that, keep the faith brother.
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Old 10-13-2017, 05:15 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by futtyos View Post
Woodco, while I will admit that Gardz does not sand to a powder, I am able to sand it well enough to get a smooth topcoat over MDF, which Gardz gets mostly sucked into anyway. If I apply too thick a coat of Gardz, I have found it a bit clogging to sand, so when I apply Gardz over the factory primed MDF I am carefull to roll thin coats so it doesn't gum up when nub sanding. I can see your point if I was spraying doors and trim, but I don't. The only time I use Gardz on doors or trim is when it is cheap factory primed MDF or if I have skim coated the door with Durabond. Rolling and brushing paint on top of Gardz over pre-primed MDF works very well for me. Perhaps there is something better to prime or seal over the cheap factory primer that goes over MDF. If anyone here at PT has done both Gardz and something better over pre-primed MDF, please let me know.

I have to repeat one of the main reasons I like Gardz so much. Years ago I used to strip and wax (acrylic finish actually) resilient flooring. I stripped one floor that had old and worn tiles. I put a coat of acrylic floor finish on and it left no shine except at near the walls where people had not walked. I put 2 more coats on and they both dissappeared into the floor. I went to my local janitorial supply house and asked what I could do. The owner told me that I needed to put down a sealer first, then the finish coats. I went back, stripped the floor, applied 2 good coats of acrylic floor sealer, then 3 coats of floor finish. The first coat of finish over the sealer looked shiny compared to without the sealer. The 2nd coat of finish made the floor even shinier. The 3rd coat made the floor look fabulous!

I used to clean offices. About 20 years ago some lawyers I cleaned for moved into a building with a stone floor in the entrance area. The stones were irregular and had thick, uneven grout lines between the stones that were very wide. The area was about 15' x 15'. I gave the owner a price of $500.00 to strip and finish the floor. He reluctantly agreed. While I was in the process of stripping the floor, he came by and could see the difference between the muddy unstripped floor and what I had stripped. He said it looked like night and day and followed that by saying that now he understood why I was charging so much after seeing how crappy the floor had become over the years before he bought the building. I struggled to get that floor very clean, then, since the floor was stone and very porous, I applied 3 coats of sealer and 3 coats of finish. That was 20 years ago. The floor still looks great and has never been refinished or had any more acrylic finish put onto it. If anyone here knows of walls or ceilings that get heavier abracive traffic than floors, please let me know.

When I first came across Gardz, I saw that it looked like acrylic floor finish and sealer, that it had the viscosity of acrylic floor finish and sealer and that it had the banana oil smell of acrylic floor finish and sealer. I was not surprised, then, to find out that Gardz was modeled after Scotch Paint's Draw-Tite which in turn was modeled after an acrylic concrete sealer.

Acrylic floor sealers and finishes are generally not sanded, so I can understand why some here do not like Gardz for this reason. All I can say is that perhaps because of my work background, I have a different view of what Gardz acts like and can do. If I was doing high end work with good materials to apply sealers, primers and finishes to, I wouldn't even have to think about using Gardz. MDF is low end crap that needs some creativity to be able to get a good finish on. If in fact you have geared this post to having problems with getting a desired finish onto pre-primed MDF doors, I hope you find a solution that you will share with us here.

In the meantime, dinner is waiting. Gardz soup! Deelish!

futtyos
LOL, futtyos I had really good laughter, your sense of humor is great considering the 'pressure' you are gathering protecting GARDZ like a guard dog

I enjoy reading (and learning from) your detailed posts, and the above post is no exception.

In next few days I'm going to do green painters tape adhesion test of GARDZ on a piece of factory primed MDF trim from HomeDepot.
I read the article by Jack Pauhl
http://www.jackpauhl.com/brushing-md...-wet-yourself/
and I like the idea of using GARDZ instead of an oil primer.
If I can I will use oil primer but some jobs are out of question for oil so water based GARDZ would be great, tho I'm aware that GARDZ has also smell but not as strong and long lasting as oil primers.

In order not to highjack this thread I'm going to make a thread and share my results using GARDZ and XIM REPAIRZ (previously RESTORZ II) sealing red brick wall.
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Old 10-13-2017, 10:28 AM   #90
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LOL, futtyos I had really good laughter, your sense of humor is great considering the 'pressure' you are gathering protecting GARDZ like a guard dog

I enjoy reading (and learning from) your detailed posts, and the above post is no exception.

In next few days I'm going to do green painters tape adhesion test of GARDZ on a piece of factory primed MDF trim from HomeDepot.
I read the article by Jack Pauhl
http://www.jackpauhl.com/brushing-md...-wet-yourself/
and I like the idea of using GARDZ instead of an oil primer.
If I can I will use oil primer but some jobs are out of question for oil so water based GARDZ would be great, tho I'm aware that GARDZ has also smell but not as strong and long lasting as oil primers.

In order not to highjack this thread I'm going to make a thread and share my results using GARDZ and XIM REPAIRZ (previously RESTORZ II) sealing red brick wall.
XYZ, I appreciate the kind words. Perhaps I might more properly be called a Gardz dog? Any way, I hope you realize that I make all this stuff up as I go along. If the mods ever catch on, I am sure they will relegate me to the DIY forum, so don't say anything.

I did take a look at ZIM Repairz and it looks interesting. The TDS says it can take up to 2 oz of colorant. I like the transparent Gardz for a first coat on new drywall, repairs and skim coats because it soaks in and strengthens the surface material, but it does not help with pointing up like a solid white primer does. Perhaps Repairz might do both. I am going to look into this. Thanks for the heads up.

futtyos
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Old 10-14-2017, 01:04 AM   #91
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Or Woodco the original poster of this could have skim coated these doors, sanded them down etc. and made a major project, which would make no sense monetarily! You can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear!

Last edited by Brushman4; 10-14-2017 at 01:11 AM..
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