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Old 05-14-2016, 08:30 AM   #21
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Yrs it was kilz
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Old 05-14-2016, 06:28 PM   #22
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@ chrisn if you know of something please don't hold your tongue, share instead. @ epretot, can you please explain a little more to me about what you did .
If it was me I would run away but what is a fact is you need to get down to the original coat of oil or bare wood, one way or the other.
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Old 05-14-2016, 07:05 PM   #23
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If it was me I would run away but what is a fact is you need to get down to the original coat of oil or bare wood, one way or the other.
That's it right there. Anything else is just a bandaid.
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Old 05-14-2016, 10:12 PM   #24
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@ chrisn if you know of something please don't hold your tongue, share instead. @ epretot, can you please explain a little more to me about what you did .
Sure. I took a piece of the existing trim an laid saran wrap over it. Then poured bondo over it. That's about it. I sprayed it with 3M low adhesion spray and attached a piece of sand paper.

You will need a more precise mold than I. You can see mine stopped short of the edges. Not a problem for what I was doing.
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Old 05-15-2016, 07:28 AM   #25
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The bondo idea is a bit intricate for me, but none the less, an amazing idea, but I will just work at it until I reach the original coat, I am thinking heat gun
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Old 05-15-2016, 08:14 AM   #26
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How much of this do you have to do? Hopefully not much. If you're going ahead with the heat gun, be sure to protect the surrounding surfaces. Like others have said, if you don't get down to the oil or raw wood, anything else is the same as putting paint on peanut butter.

Personally, I'd also run from this one and tell the customer to never ever touch the baseboard ever again.

It'll be fine.
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Old 05-15-2016, 09:55 AM   #27
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I just don't understand why the stripper didn't work out. It made it pasty instead of eating at the paint
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Old 05-15-2016, 10:08 AM   #28
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Try other chemical strippers until you find one that works
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Old 05-15-2016, 12:21 PM   #29
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just explain the problem and the solution (s) to the ho. you can put a bandaid on a bleeding artery but unless the the root of the problem is addressed you're hands are tied. I'd put $$ on the presence of lead. and unless you are RRP certified you can't disturb it. It doesn't really matter what you put over the existing problem, caulking over it is great for filling dings or ??, but if the first latex over oil failure isn't addressed, the caulk mess is just another layer, the problem is still there and will fail as the rest of it does, little by little, ding by ding. Pay special attention to high traffic areas and around door knobs and such as those areas will be the worst and fail first. Just educate your ho and go with it. those things suck but again, if they're not willing to deal with the i$$ue, they're gonna have to deal with the maintenance. its not like its all just going to fall off....it's just going to show signs of wear ore often and need more maintenance to keep it looking nice. it's part of the "charm" lol of old buildings and such.

it'll be fine....;P

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Old 05-15-2016, 12:38 PM   #30
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I'm doing a hoarder house now. House built in 1880's. Peeling paint on fireplace. I'm not touching that crap, because I am fairly sure there's lead in the mix. So I injected caulk, shellac, then oil, and then 2 costs semi gloss. The owners are aware of the massive price increase to "do it right" and are perfectly happy with the solution I am providing. They actually like the crackling paint effect...as long as I am paid, and they are happy it's a win win.

You just can't "do it right" on all jobs. Do what you can with what you have.
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Old 05-16-2016, 12:32 AM   #31
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Here ya go, pictures prove it as they say. 7 days hard work.

1 coat shellac primer
1 coat problock oil primer
2 topcoat
2 tubes of caulk in this room alone

I went overkill because I wanted ZERO risk of the cat urine smell to linger, and being it was already a hazmat job, the $ was there
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Old 05-16-2016, 03:31 AM   #32
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I don't know if that would be considered a hoarders house, looks more like a filthy pig lived there
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Old 05-16-2016, 08:22 AM   #33
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Yrs it was kilz
amazing how i knew that isn't it.
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Old 05-16-2016, 08:26 AM   #34
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Try other chemical strippers until you find one that works
Look for a product called Peelaway. They make a stripper that is a paste that would be ideal for this application. You put a coat about 1/4" thick and cover it with a special paper they have. Let it set for the specified time and it will strip up to 8-9 layers of paint If I remember correctly. I had several contractors doing lead/asbestos abatement that used it in Socal back in the 90's. Works great and you don't have to sand,scrape,or burn something that could and probably does have lead in it.
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Old 05-16-2016, 10:57 AM   #35
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I don't know if that would be considered a hoarders house, looks more like a filthy pig lived there
The before is AFTER we spent a full day of moving the tenant. That's what was left behind. 400 sqft studio apt, 3000 lbs trash
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Old 05-16-2016, 01:01 PM   #36
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The before is AFTER we spent a full day of moving the tenant. That's what was left behind. 400 sqft studio apt, 3000 lbs trash
Work is work, and I admire your fortitude in tackling all aspects of this project. However, for me, this is one I would have turned over to my disaster restoration buddy to deal with up to the painting part and then I would have come in - maybe. I've done a few like this over the years but now I am past wanting to deal with the crap (sometimes literally) this kind of job entails.
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Old 05-16-2016, 01:09 PM   #37
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Work is work, and I admire your fortitude in tackling all aspects of this project. However, for me, this is one I would have turned over to my disaster restoration buddy to deal with up to the painting part and then I would have come in - maybe. I've done a few like this over the years but now I am past wanting to deal with the crap (sometimes literally) this kind of job entails.
Sure...a couple of weeks "slumming" it in that beautiful place on the Oregon coast, and now you are spoiled beyond all hope.
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Old 05-17-2016, 03:49 AM   #38
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The before is AFTER we spent a full day of moving the tenant. That's what was left behind. 400 sqft studio apt, 3000 lbs trash
OK ,but it was still a filthy pig lining there
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Old 05-17-2016, 09:53 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by driftweed View Post
Here ya go, pictures prove it as they say. 7 days hard work.

1 coat shellac primer
1 coat problock oil primer
2 topcoat
2 tubes of caulk in this room alone

I went overkill because I wanted ZERO risk of the cat urine smell to linger, and being it was already a hazmat job, the $ was there
Isn't it amazing what paint can do? Good job.
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Old 05-17-2016, 10:39 PM   #40
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This job I kinda took a fair amount of pride in. I rescued that unit, and today I found out the tenant is moving back into it.

I did get a $200 tip though, the owner was so impressed.
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