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Old 07-03-2017, 10:39 PM   #41
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Woodco, I read your post #36 and posts 37 and 38. Please forgive me for my ignorance, but I am having trouble understanding or visualizing what you are talking about.

When you say "Im talking new house, where the trim needs to be caulked to the window", are you talking about caulking the area where the glass pane meets the window frame or are you talking about where the Complete window meets the siding on the house?

I don't do lots of exterior, but I would think that new windows would be weatherproof and that the only caulking that would be needed would be where the complete window, frame, glass and all, meets the siding.

I am visually challenged on what you and others are saying and am trying to understand and compare to what I have done in the past.

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Kind of a bad example, but its the only picture I could find. You can see where the trim needs to be caulked to the window frame. So, one could caulk the window well before the mask and spray, OR... to kill two birds with one stone, one might mask the window in a way where they could caulk the crack along the tape, roll the trim paint on the trim, then pull the whole masking, thus avoiding any actual cut-in on the inside of the window trim.
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Old 07-04-2017, 06:08 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Woodco View Post
Kind of a bad example, but its the only picture I could find. You can see where the trim needs to be caulked to the window frame. So, one could caulk the window well before the mask and spray, OR... to kill two birds with one stone, one might mask the window in a way where they could caulk the crack along the tape, roll the trim paint on the trim, then pull the whole masking, thus avoiding any actual cut-in on the inside of the window trim.
If it's exterior why didn't the siders caulk (it's nc, right)? It (quad or equivalent) should be dry and gassed off and should be part of their installation??? Typically its ready for paint....I thought you were talking about interior...drywall/sill to vinyl or liners to vinyl, my bad.

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Old 07-04-2017, 07:14 PM   #43
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Sometimes siders do it, sometimes its left for us painters. At least we will do it right.
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Old 07-04-2017, 10:23 PM   #44
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What about that right side of the header trim, that's what I want to know about.. did he cut it short or what? Lol.
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Old 07-05-2017, 07:55 AM   #45
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He's only a painter man. He don't cut no boards.
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Old 07-06-2017, 04:04 PM   #46
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Here in bama unless you had a crew it would be hard to get the painting done before the caulk dries. Maybe if it was a climate controlled enviroment. I have used the wetrag and frog tape method with good results. I have heard of people doing the caulking method but between the frog tape or sealing with the under color paint I have usually gotten by.
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Old 07-06-2017, 07:20 PM   #47
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Here in bama unless you had a crew it would be hard to get the painting done before the caulk dries. Maybe if it was a climate controlled enviroment. I have used the wetrag and frog tape method with good results. I have heard of people doing the caulking method but between the frog tape or sealing with the under color paint I have usually gotten by.
I dont see how. You only caulk it right before you paint it, and you pull it right away.

If I wanted to say, caulk a cabinet to the wall, I'd tape the side of the cab, maybe cut in very close to the tape, and on the second coat, caulk it, wipe it, paint it, pull it. Done. Prefect line. Same thing with splitting colors on bullnose corners. You dont caulk it, till your ready to do it. I dont let it tack up, I do it right way.
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Old 07-06-2017, 09:47 PM   #48
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What about that right side of the header trim, that's what I want to know about.. did he cut it short or what? Lol.
And now that I am looking at the trim, wouldn't it be a good idea to run the sides all the way down and cut the bottom piece to fit in between them so that any possible water runoff goes down vertically and not sit in a horizontal butt joint? I have never installed ext trim.

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Old 07-07-2017, 12:50 AM   #49
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And now that I am looking at the trim, wouldn't it be a good idea to run the sides all the way down and cut the bottom piece to fit in between them so that any possible water runoff goes down vertically and not sit in a horizontal butt joint? I have never installed ext trim.

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Yep, cool call too. Some ppl do ir, some don't.
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Old 07-07-2017, 07:41 AM   #50
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Just did a house where a triple wide window needed a new piece of trim on the top and the upper bit was full length, but then the sides went all the way to the bottom so that the bottom bit was 4" shorter than the top on either side. Looked really odd.
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Old 07-07-2017, 01:29 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by futtyos View Post
And now that I am looking at the trim, wouldn't it be a good idea to run the sides all the way down and cut the bottom piece to fit in between them so that any possible water runoff goes down vertically and not sit in a horizontal butt joint? I have never installed ext trim.

futtyos
Thats what they did on the house I'm working on now. It does look a little odd, but its better for water runoff. Of course, with Hardie, I dont think it would really matter.
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Old 07-08-2017, 11:14 AM   #52
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Thats what they did on the house I'm working on now. It does look a little odd, but its better for water runoff. Of course, with Hardie, I dont think it would really matter.
I am of the mind to arrange the exterior of a structure so that rain will run off as efficiently as possible. Water seems to keep looking for any new path it can find and once it finds it, it may lead to damage, such as flooding basements or rotting something that wouldn't otherwise have too long of contact with water.

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Old 07-22-2017, 11:01 AM   #53
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Plenty have criticized my system on NC interior, but I do what works for me. As for products? 90% or more of my jobs are HardiPlank. I don't prime new Hardi and I don't backroll it either. Two coats premium paint. I don't touch the low end NC myself but as already mentioned, many are only doing one coat Mastercraft. Interior? One coat primer one coat flat.
The biggest issue I see is with taping your line next a textured ceiling. If it is a smooth ceiling it would be easier to tape a straight line. It seems more time consuming than if you were to trim in with a brush. This assumes you are a quality brush man.
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