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Old 07-22-2009, 08:59 PM   #21
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Masonry primer's strong point is its tenacious grip to masonry (and a little bit of PH balance/neutralizer)
There is no masonry there to paint, per se. There is only paint there (that needs to be repainted)
You are correct sir! I couldn't tell if it had been painted, or it was some sort of raw concrete substrate. If raw, masonry primer. If painted, just another coat of high-quality 100% acrylic exterior primer.
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Old 07-22-2009, 09:01 PM   #22
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or what ever top coat paint you like. If you have a hammer and a flat chisel you can break those concrete form tabs off, if they are sticking out a bunch. It would help with the extra rust problem.
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Old 07-22-2009, 09:21 PM   #23
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OK then...
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Old 07-22-2009, 10:30 PM   #24
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I'm totally lost in all this, but I can tell that the ac unit is lavitating, so I would not work on this house at all.
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Old 07-22-2009, 11:04 PM   #25
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I'm totally lost in all this, but I can tell that the ac unit is lavitating, so I would not work on this house at all.
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Old 07-23-2009, 12:52 AM   #26
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Wire brush/wheel the rusty rebar, and spot prime with a rust-inhibitor primer. Then prime the whole thing with a masonry primer. Then top coat with high-quality acrylic exterior paint.
This, plus powerwash with bleach and tsp to kill off what ever is growing in there first. They can tint the masonry primer (SW Loxon or BM 066, other companies have them as well), some stores do not know this. Would it work to masonry prime the whole shebang, then spot prime the rust? Wait, the waterborne primer would flash rust the metal, just kidding. Should be an easy job minus painting the fake brick. If the concrete is bare I would plan on two coats of paint as you need to achieve less than 10 pinholes per square inch for a location like that. It is often best to paint concrete (especially south facing) in the later afternoon as the concrete is "inhaling" which helps such the coating tight to the substrate and reduces offgassing (which would be causing your pinholing). I like Accolades from P & L in eggshell for something like that, cleans really well just rinsing it with the hose to keep it looking nice.
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Old 07-23-2009, 08:24 PM   #27
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This, plus powerwash with bleach and tsp to kill off what ever is growing in there first. They can tint the masonry primer (SW Loxon or BM 066, other companies have them as well), some stores do not know this. Would it work to masonry prime the whole shebang, then spot prime the rust? Wait, the waterborne primer would flash rust the metal, just kidding. Should be an easy job minus painting the fake brick. If the concrete is bare I would plan on two coats of paint as you need to achieve less than 10 pinholes per square inch for a location like that. It is often best to paint concrete (especially south facing) in the later afternoon as the concrete is "inhaling" which helps such the coating tight to the substrate and reduces offgassing (which would be causing your pinholing). I like Accolades from P & L in eggshell for something like that, cleans really well just rinsing it with the hose to keep it looking nice.

wow.. inhaling concrete? thats outstanding!
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Old 07-24-2009, 12:17 AM   #28
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wow.. inhaling concrete? thats outstanding!
No, I am serious. If you think long and hard, and maybe ask your most knowledgeable rep (or NACE) about it, it is true. In the AM as the concrete heats up, it expands, forcing the trapped air in it out. As it starts to cool back down, it contracts, and suck small amount of air back into it. If you paint concrete in the sun around say 10 am its pretty obvious. And make sure you use something with a little sheen down there. Honestly though, that white colored concrete might look pretty sharp with a good PW and maybe just a sealer on it. Once you paint concrete you have committed to painting it.
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Old 07-24-2009, 07:50 AM   #29
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No, I am serious. If you think long and hard, and maybe ask your most knowledgeable rep (or NACE) about it, it is true. In the AM as the concrete heats up, it expands, forcing the trapped air in it out. As it starts to cool back down, it contracts, and suck small amount of air back into it. If you paint concrete in the sun around say 10 am its pretty obvious. And make sure you use something with a little sheen down there. Honestly though, that white colored concrete might look pretty sharp with a good PW and maybe just a sealer on it. Once you paint concrete you have committed to painting it.

you are the concrete man.. thanks for the heads up!
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