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Old 05-07-2019, 01:45 PM   #1
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Default Paint failure on garage door

A rare warranty call back. I painted this garage door last year. The green color underneath was the factory color. I used SW Pro Industrial multi surface acrylic. I pressure washed it to prep with simple green. Now this.

Any insights what I did wrong?

I already talked to my SW rep and she's going to replace the product needed to redo it. Which will be a bonding primer and exterior product TBD.

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Old 05-07-2019, 02:41 PM   #2
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Is that door vinyl?

Reading the specs it doesn't say it can be used on Vinyl. It says painted surfaces so you probably should have used a bonding primer first on Vinyl.

Pro Industrial Multi-Surface Acrylic is a
waterborne acrylic for interior and exterior
use on marginally prepared metal or
masonry surfaces.

Iron & Steel - Minimum surface preparation is Hand Tool Clean per SSPC-SP2. Remove all oil
and grease from surface per SSPC-SP1. For better performance, use Commercial Blast
Cleaning per SSPC-SP6. Primer recommended for best performance.
Aluminum - Remove all oil, grease, dirt, oxide and other foreign material per SSPC-SP1.


Galvanizing - Allow to weather a minimum of six months prior to coating. Solvent Clean per
SSPC-SP1. When weathering is not possible, or the surface has been treated with chromates or
silicates, first Solvent Clean per SSPC-SP1 and apply a test patch. Allow paint to dry at least
one week before testing adhesion. If adhesion is poor, brush blasting per SSPC-SP16 is
necessary to remove these treatments. Rusty galvanizing requires a minimum of Hand Tool
Cleaning per SSPC-SP2, prime the area the same day as cleaned.


Concrete Block - Surface should be thoroughly clean and dry. Air, material and surface
temperatures must be at least 55F (13C) before filling. Use Heavy Duty Block Filler or Loxon
Block Surfacer. The filler must be thoroughly dry before topcoating.


Masonry - All masonry must be free of dirt, oil, grease, loose paint, mortar, masonry dust, etc.
Clean per SSPC-SP13/Nace 6/ ICRI No. 310.2R, CSP 1-3. Poured, troweled, or tilt-up concrete,
plaster, mortar, etc. must be thoroughly cured at least 30 days at 75F. Form release
compounds and curing membranes must be removed by brush blasting. Brick must be allowed
to weather for one year prior to surface preparation and painting. Prime the area the same day
as cleaned. Weathered masonry and soft or porous cement board must be brush blasted or
power tool cleaned to remove loosely adhering contamination and to get to a hard, firm surface.
Apply one coat Loxon Conditioner, following label recommendations.

https://www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPD...o=035777254745

Last edited by Mr Smith; 05-07-2019 at 02:50 PM..
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Old 05-07-2019, 03:15 PM   #3
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It could be a combination of a few issues.

Its possible that a small amount of oxidation was still present after you cleaned the garage.

Ive only used MSA once, but since its a fast drying and thinish coating Id guess that its also fairly brittle. Maybe switching to a different more flexible product would be a good idea.


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Old 05-07-2019, 04:08 PM   #4
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Could it be the factory finish on the garage door? I'm wondering how they paint garage doors from the factory.

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Old 05-07-2019, 06:37 PM   #5
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Ya, was it metal or vinyl?. Either way I always prime those factory baked on enamels. Never know what they are..Or how they will react.

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Old 05-07-2019, 07:43 PM   #6
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It's definitely metal.

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Old 05-07-2019, 07:49 PM   #7
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Not a SW rep but interesting to see it bubble all in the same area, if it was a product incompatibility you would expect to see it wide spread. I would lean towards some kind of surface contamination in those areas.
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Old 05-07-2019, 07:49 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AngieM View Post
It's definitely metal.

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Same with those entry doors. I've tried painting them with the Aura exterior semi straight over the factory primed and it scratches like crazy. I always prime with bonding primer now. Weird that it totally bubbled thougn..

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Old 05-08-2019, 12:15 AM   #9
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Damn.. IDK for real, but I call it SW sucks...
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Old 05-08-2019, 01:00 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cocomonkeynuts View Post
Not a SW rep but interesting to see it bubble all in the same area, if it was a product incompatibility you would expect to see it wide spread. I would lean towards some kind of surface contamination in those areas.
I don't think so because it's on multiple panels. Not only that, but I thoroughly pressure washed it. I even used the turbo tip.

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Old 05-08-2019, 01:13 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AngieM View Post
I don't think so because it's on multiple panels. Not only that, but I thoroughly pressure washed it. I even used the turbo tip.

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Is it well adhered in other areas? Does it come off in strips? Only other explanation I can think of is metal expansion caused a crack allowing moisture under the coating.
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Old 05-08-2019, 06:05 AM   #12
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Is it rusting by any chance.? I've never seen those doors Come factory green btw. Usually white.. Also, why did you use a turbo nozzle? Those are super powerful!
Lastly, I never liked that simple green stuff. I find it really hard to rinse all the foam off entirely.

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Old 05-08-2019, 08:16 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AngieM View Post
A rare warranty call back. I painted this garage door last year. The green color underneath was the factory color. I used SW Pro Industrial multi surface acrylic. I pressure washed it to prep with simple green. Now this.

Any insights what I did wrong?

I already talked to my SW rep and she's going to replace the product needed to redo it. Which will be a bonding primer and exterior product TBD.

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Happens to everybody once in a while...
Maybe some residue from cleaning, or some chalkiness on surface, or improper drying/curing environments, etc...?Could be any number of things that caused it. Doesn't really matter.
Good opportunity to show the customer what kind of painter you are, by how you handle the situation. hopefully you can fix it so that it doesn't become a recurring problem.
  1. pressure wash (if possible) no chems.
  2. maybe take a wire brush and gently remove peeling paint.
  3. prime with good exterior primer.
  4. re-coat (x)2 coats 100% Acrylic Paint
  5. forget about it.
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Last edited by Holland; 05-08-2019 at 08:20 AM..
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Old 05-08-2019, 09:26 PM   #14
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Wrong product for the surface. If your rep knows anything, that product was designed as a dryfall alternative for really dirty surfaces. It has tenatious adhesion yes, but is pretty brittle as you can see. The product was found to really dry super quick like a dryfall and stick to lots of stuff, so what happens? They oversell what the product is really for.


Depending on the chalkyness of the door, I use Sealkrete original for the chalk binding primer, then Duration Satin usually.
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Old 05-11-2019, 02:57 PM   #15
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My customer asked if I could come over and touch it up so it looked better for a graduation party. I gave it an even worse disease! I texted her to profusely apologize and assure her I will make this right. Sigh. Call backs are expensive, but surely will not make this mistake again.

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Old 05-12-2019, 06:59 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AngieM View Post
My customer asked if I could come over and touch it up so it looked better for a graduation party. I gave it an even worse disease! I texted her to profusely apologize and assure her I will make this right. Sigh. Call backs are expensive, but surely will not make this mistake again.

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Did ya give a quick scrape first?
It kind of looks like what happens when you paint in the direct sun..

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Old 05-12-2019, 03:53 PM   #17
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The first time I did this garage door it was because the home owner painted it herself and it failed. I attributed it to insufficient surface preparation and surface contamination.

Here's a video of me pressure washing it last year. It made a ginormous mess that took a long time to clean up. At least I know that to expect when I do this again.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BiznubyF...d=ndl5hm04tx1p

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Old 05-12-2019, 04:41 PM   #18
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That looks like failure due to a contaminant. I couldn't view the video, so I have some questions;

1. What was the failure you observed after the homeowner painted the garage?

2. Did you actually remove any paint the homeowner applied?

3. What did the homeowner use to paint the garage door?

4. Do the homeowners own a diesel vehicle that backs up to garage

5. Does the homeowner use a spray wax to treat his vehicles?
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Old 05-12-2019, 05:43 PM   #19
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The paint was failing the same way it is now. In large pieces separated from the surface. I pressure washed it and removed 100% of the old paint. Got it all the way back to the original painted garage door. She used an exterior grade paint from home depot. No diesel or wax that I know of.



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Old 05-12-2019, 06:04 PM   #20
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That looked like an awful mess to clean up. If you do go that route again I would say take a clean spray bottle of water and spray it in the problem spots to see if it just runs off or beads up like it would over oil or some other non water soluble. If it does then use a degreaser before painting.


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