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Old 04-15-2013, 08:26 PM   #1
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Default PPG breakthrough on laminate slat walls?

Anyone have any input on using this on laminate skinned slat walls? I have a potential commercial after hours job and I want to change up the specs a bit. If I am going to put my head in the hangmans noose in suggesting this change, I want to know if there is a consensus that it is a viable choice.
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:00 PM   #2
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Post more specifically the product you are considering. Common wainscotting for commercial? If its what I'm thinking it can be very pricy.
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Old 04-15-2013, 11:02 PM   #3
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Ppg Breakthrough as the product to give a color change to slat walls .

Slat walls are basically formica veneered walls that department stores hang hooks and displays on. The spec is to leave the pink peachy walls or use a bonding primer and topcoat in acrylic. Existing color is ugly, I think the bonding priner and topcoat is going to pop loose and my hope is I can go directly with Breakthrough and have a harder more durable finish.

Any thoughts or opinions?
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Old 04-15-2013, 11:41 PM   #4
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I'm going back to grade 6....completely mis-read your post.

Now that I understand....sorry, can't help.

Your welcome.
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Old 04-15-2013, 11:48 PM   #5
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Why would the bonding primer pop off? I've used different bonding primers on glass and hung paper on them (which pulls a lot harder than paint when it dries) and haven't had in issue. I would think if the substrate is prepped/scuffed/tacked off, the bonding primer would work fine.
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Old 04-16-2013, 01:23 AM   #6
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I just put PPG Breakthrough over a clear that was on wainscotting in a restaurant. When I check the adhesion it was with a key and I gouged the wood without removing the coating. I profiled pretty well with 120 grit sponges. Not a completely dull surface but no longer super slick either.

It was awesome. Didn't care for the 409 smell one bit but man Ive never seen anything stick like that except epoxy.

It needs to be spread thin or else it will drip. When I thinned it.. It seamed to mess up the sheen a bit. I brushed out a few feet and then back brushed to get rid of the foaming issues. Turned out way better than I thought it would or could

PS that was with the satin. Im not sure Id try to roll out the semi on wainscotting. It leveled well but you;d sure see the orange peel with the higher gloss. Its also so thin that it won't hide any dust you leave behind.
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Last edited by GrantsPainting; 04-16-2013 at 01:40 AM..
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Old 04-16-2013, 01:40 PM   #7
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Why would the bonding primer pop off? I've used different bonding primers on glass and hung paper on them (which pulls a lot harder than paint when it dries) and haven't had in issue. I would think if the substrate is prepped/scuffed/tacked off, the bonding primer would work fine.
Turn around time. The displays would get rehung the next day.
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Old 04-16-2013, 01:45 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrantsPainting View Post
I just put PPG Breakthrough over a clear that was on wainscotting in a restaurant. When I check the adhesion it was with a key and I gouged the wood without removing the coating. I profiled pretty well with 120 grit sponges. Not a completely dull surface but no longer super slick either.

It was awesome. Didn't care for the 409 smell one bit but man Ive never seen anything stick like that except epoxy.

It needs to be spread thin or else it will drip. When I thinned it.. It seamed to mess up the sheen a bit. I brushed out a few feet and then back brushed to get rid of the foaming issues. Turned out way better than I thought it would or could

PS that was with the satin. Im not sure Id try to roll out the semi on wainscotting. It leveled well but you;d sure see the orange peel with the higher gloss. Its also so thin that it won't hide any dust you leave behind.

It would be satin rolled. Functional department store and they frown on interior spraying.

Also, I've never used the product, and have only the opinion of PT'ers as basis to propose product spec change. Will try sample area before bid submitted.

Another reason is I am hoping to reduce coats. Will save 12000 sq ft of wall space in the extra coat and labor. Trying to think outside the box.
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Old 04-16-2013, 01:53 PM   #9
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I swear by xim 400 bonding primer . It primes glass ... Nuff said
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:07 PM   #10
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I think I would go with 2 coats Breakthrough versus bonding primer and 2 top coats.
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:31 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modernfinish
I swear by xim 400 bonding primer . It primes glass ... Nuff said
What good is a primer if the finish coat doesn't stick to the primer?
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:34 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paradigmzz

Will try sample area before bid submitted.
Good call!
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:47 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modernfinish View Post
I swear by xim 400 bonding primer . It primes glass ... Nuff said
I used some today, very tight bond.

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I think I would go with 2 coats Breakthrough versus bonding primer and 2 top coats.
I am leaning towards that. So long as they were clean it should stick just fine. Don't know about it being returned to service so quickly though.
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Primer makes everything better...
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:53 PM   #14
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I've used breakthrough with great success over laminate casework in a dentist office. Changed from 80's orange to off white in two coats. Very cool product! It's a pretty thin material and I second the comment about running, but it seams to set pretty fast too. Needs to be strained often, bonds very, very well.
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Old 04-18-2013, 02:51 AM   #15
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Yeah scuff sand well and wipe clean. Should be good to go. Ironically I've never rolled it, only sprayed or brushed. I would think a 1/4" nap should be good.
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