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Old 01-05-2015, 11:15 PM   #21
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I would like to avoid sanding after priming as well, but I'm sorry, its unprofessional.
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Old 01-05-2015, 11:27 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVLPainter View Post
Interestingly, I thought discussion forums were for learning things we don't know, and sharing our expertise in a particular area with others who run into something they haven't done before.
Also, I don't disagree with this AVL.

I like SW water based undercoater, but for the life of me I cant think of what its called.
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Old 01-05-2015, 11:32 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian C
how can any professional painter not have experience with mdf ?
Because professional carpenters do not use MDF.
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Old 01-05-2015, 11:59 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bender View Post
Professional standards of practice and ethics for a particular field are typically agreed upon and maintained through widely recognized professional associations.
So you're saying that there's no such thing as a professional painter?

I think the normal distinction in its adjectival use is professional versus amateur.
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Old 01-06-2015, 12:47 AM   #25
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I must admit I assumed you lot were familiar with mdf as its used exclusively on interior trims down here. I apologise for my ignorance.
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Old 01-06-2015, 01:10 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian C View Post
I must admit I assumed you lot were familiar with mdf as its used exclusively on interior trims down here. I apologise for my ignorance.
Around here, Brian, we typically only encounter it pre-primed.

The only time we've encountered the raw version is in furniture or casegoods that we've built and finished in house.
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Old 01-06-2015, 01:22 AM   #27
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I've seen it in various instances. Sheet panels ripped down for example.
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Old 01-06-2015, 08:46 AM   #28
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Trial and error, Google, or the old guy at the paint store..but never ask a question on PT.
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Old 01-28-2015, 01:09 AM   #29
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Hello, BIN white shellac,, sands out quickly with 320 without binding up the paper inside of six hours. Seals well excluding MDF edges that needs two coats. Anything water based pops the grains quite badly and usually if your using MDF on built ins you're really looking for a smooth finish. Regards
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Old 02-02-2015, 08:38 PM   #30
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Default Priming MDF

Most of our closet shelving up here for new construction, we build out of MDF. I've had great results with simply 2 coating them with our eggshell wall finish. I use Cloverdale's Super II Eggshell Latex. It will require a lite sand between coats, only place the fibres raise will be on the edges. Usually coat them the same color as the closet walls , means no cutting for the wall cleats.

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Old 02-06-2015, 01:07 AM   #31
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Yea most new shelving I do is unprimed MDF and most any water primer or even flat paint is fine and with it sanding and dusting is necessary but it sands easily and an orbital or palm sander makes quick work of it.
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Old 02-07-2015, 09:13 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phillyholiday View Post
Kinda out of the box but we have been priming with lacquer undercoater on large unprimed MDF panels and finishing with SW pre-cat wb epoxy. The pic is of the pre-cat over crap pre-primed MDF baseboard. Attachment 31561

So I'm curious, having never used any of the WB epoxys. How is their comparability with your wall finish coats? Can it be touched up or recoated by hand after? What's the advantage of using the WB epoxy over just your favorite semi-gloss latex?
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Old 02-07-2015, 06:13 PM   #33
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I usually go over mdf or any particle board with oil primer then finish with latex. Always turns out great


https://www.calgarypropainting.com
https://www.calgarypropainting.com/blog/index.php
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Old 02-07-2015, 09:51 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Richards View Post
Trial and error, Google, or the old guy at the paint store..but never ask a question on PT.
Especially if you actually need an answer!
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