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Old 04-18-2016, 05:42 PM   #1
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Default Problem Wall

Hi guys I have a question about a problem wall. I have a tall long wall that gets a lot of natural light. The customer wanted a satin finish. I applied Superpaint satin. (I agree that there are better paints paint brands out there. I just can't drive 40 miles to buy them, so its SW or Lowe's.)
So I can see my roller stripes when I look at it from an angle where I overlapped about 1-2 inches. Paint store manager recommended priming so I primed with Kilz total cause I had some on hand. Didn't fix it.
The district rep came out and recommended another coat with a 1/4 nap all rolled from top to bottom. They offered to supply the paint. But this will be the 6th coat on the wall. 2 first then 1 primer then 2 more. the first coat did not show the stripes.
So I am going to apply the Superpaint as recommended but I am wondering if i should prime again and if I should use something else instead of Kilz to do it.
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Old 04-18-2016, 06:36 PM   #2
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first sand the wall really well if it is smooth. prime with drawtite or gardz lastly apply the finish paint add some water or extender too it and make sure you finish every stroke in the same direction up or down. I prefer down. Good luck sometimes it is just not possible to make the wall perfect given difficult lighting situation we just had one recently and it was difficult to make it look good. I was the only one ever not happy with it but I wont tell you how many coats I put on one wall until I was happy.
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Old 04-18-2016, 06:56 PM   #3
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You can always give the wall a skim coat. Level 5. Doesn't really take much time if you roll mudd on and wipe off.
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Old 04-18-2016, 07:21 PM   #4
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? It needs a bit of sanding because now you have some texture that will show through. And see if you can go down a notch on the gloss level. A good eggshell will not show lap marks as much as satin does and won't be significantly less durable then a satin. And then, I would highly recommend driving forty miles if you can get something other then SW, Valspar, or Behr. How much time and money have you already spent? Isn't it time to nip that in the butt?
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Old 04-18-2016, 07:33 PM   #5
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Where I live, satin is trim paint. I agree with PAC for the most part, eggshell is a much better choice. I understand people are people and want what they want, but I just won't paint an area with critical lighting with a high sheen. Many (maybe most) painters will and they are welcome to it. I'm just not interested in a job that I know I will probably have to eat.

I know where you are with this and I feel for you--been there and took a beating.


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Old 04-18-2016, 08:58 PM   #6
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Once again I have to appreciate the fact that where we live texture is way more common than smooth walls. It may not look that great to many, and it is harder to cut in cleanly at the ceiling, but all in all it sure is nice to have it hide those excessive sheen/light issues on walls that are positioned like that.
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Old 04-19-2016, 12:54 AM   #7
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First of all super paint is one if the worse products I have used. I tried it in velevet and barely could get it to not flash... I would suggest using some extender and one of those marathon roler sleeves that SW sells. Good luck.
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Old 04-19-2016, 02:54 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RH View Post
Once again I have to appreciate the fact that where we live texture is way more common than smooth walls. It may not look that great to many, and it is harder to cut in cleanly at the ceiling, but all in all it sure is nice to have it hide those excessive sheen/light issues on walls that are positioned like that.
Agreed
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Old 04-19-2016, 10:08 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImagelinePainting View Post
First of all super paint is one if the worse products I have used. I tried it in velevet and barely could get it to not flash... I would suggest using some extender and one of those marathon roler sleeves that SW sells. Good luck.
I didn't say it! I did NOT say it!
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Old 04-19-2016, 02:22 PM   #10
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Default Problem Wall

Here is my plan, sand the wall where the roller overlapped and created the sheen. Prime with Gardz.
I asked the customer if I could repaint the whole project using flat instead of satin. Hope to hear back from him soon.
Massively discourage satin in natural light next time.
I am hesitant to apply a level 5, just not something that I have a lot of experience doing.
I am taking this job a bit in the shorts but live and learn.
Edit added a word

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Old 04-19-2016, 03:03 PM   #11
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Gardz should help. As has been pointed out in other threads, Gardz seals very well, but may need a quick second coat to create an evenly sealed surface.
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Old 04-19-2016, 08:42 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RH View Post
Once again I have to appreciate the fact that where we live texture is way more common than smooth walls. It may not look that great to many, and it is harder to cut in cleanly at the ceiling, but all in all it sure is nice to have it hide those excessive sheen/light issues on walls that are positioned like that.
I miss oregon....
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Old 04-19-2016, 08:54 PM   #13
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Is it a medium or dark color? What size set up are you using 9, 14, 18? Are you being critical or is the ho? Is it smooth or textured? I'd say it's pretty well saturated and primer won't do anything to help you. It's just an (unnecessary)additional step. Could be one of several things or a combination. Xtender is a great place to start. And switch your gear as you're probably using the same techniques over and over and creating more of a problem. Give it a good pole sand, throw some Xtender in it and bag the windows (contractor bags or paper or?? If it's sunny outside the surface is probable getting and staying too warm and ya don't have enough open time) or close the blinds if it's tacking too fast. I start there anyway...lay it all off in 1 direction..
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Old 04-19-2016, 09:20 PM   #14
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It's a very light color a creamy white. 9 inch frame. Smooth walls, and the home owner is an engineer... Quick to ask for a discount and free work in the same breath. Lol.
You have to be less than 15 degrees off the wall to see anything. From 15 to Looking straight on it looks great.
It was raining every time I painted the wall.
I like the idea of all new gear on this.




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Old 04-19-2016, 11:25 PM   #15
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I agree with lil--don't see what Gardz or any primer would do at this point. I'm liking the gear/equipment idea as well. I've never used microfiber sleeves on a wall yet, but the short nap ones do a jam up job rolling on satin paint on doors, etc. of course I'm using good, leveling waterbourne paint (BM Advance or Muralo Ultra Flow Satin). I've got 21 doors to do tomorrow with microfiber and/or Red Feather mini roller.


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Old 04-20-2016, 12:22 AM   #16
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Won't change anything if you prime the wall again, in "theory " super paint is a paint and primer in one...👻 microfiber rolers won't really work on this paint I have tried that route too. The only sleeve that I really found to work decent was the Marathon from Purdy. Also get the 1/2" nap so you can have enough product to spread ...
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Old 04-20-2016, 12:28 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PACman
I didn't say it! I did NOT say it!
I am still getting used to SW products and honestly the only good product I found so far is CHB flat for ceilings. Used to use General Paint's products here in Canada but SW bought GP and now we ended up in this mess. On top of that here all the walls are smooth, on higher end jobs even the ceiling and walls are always in eggshell or satin...
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Old 04-20-2016, 07:50 PM   #18
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Go 14 or 18 and I'd go 1/2 white dove or microfiber.
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Old 04-20-2016, 08:41 PM   #19
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Paint it dead flat , problem solved
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Old 04-21-2016, 10:55 PM   #20
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Default Gardz is primarily a sealer

[QUOTE=radio11;1177633]I agree with lil--don't see what Gardz or any primer would do at this point. I'm liking the gear/equipment idea as well. I've never used microfiber sleeves on a wall yet, but the short nap ones do a jam up job rolling on satin paint on doors, etc. of course I'm using good, leveling waterbourne paint (BM Advance or Muralo Ultra Flow Satin). I've got 21 doors to do tomorrow with microfiber and/or Red Feather mini roller.


Radio11, the reason for SEALING, not priming, the surface with Gardz is so that the water in the topcoat of paint won't soak into the surface, allowing you to keep as wet an edge as possible without adding water or an extender like floetrol, which could also be done.

A sealer and a primer are not necessarily the same. If you haven't tried 2 coats of Gardz on bare drywall, you must by all means try it out. I don't know if the satin paint Jaxson34 put on will soak up water from any further coats, but that is his decision to find out. I got tired of taking chances with paints that have sheens to them flashing or otherwise not turning out with an even coat (and that includes many flat paints these days), so now, when I am in doubt, I use Gardz.

I had one wall in a high rise condo that ran from the outside window through the bedroom and into the bathroom. The bathroom had a pocket door, so the wall was rather long. At a certain point of the day the sun shown in and you could see every little imperfection, and we used flat paint! After several tries of doing it the GC's way, I told him that I would do it my way. When he left for the day I put 2 coats of Gardz on the wall and the next day 2 coats of flat finish paint. Problem solved. We only had to do this with one wall because that was the only wall to get this kind of light.

Although Gardz does act like a primer, its primary application is as a sealer. It started out as a concrete sealer. Scotch Paints took it and re-engineered it for use on torn drywall, then Zinsser copied it.

When I first used Gardz I thought it was an acrylic floor finish or sealer as it was milky and thin and smelled of banana oil, just like the acrylic stuff. I learned of the importance of sealers when I used to strip and wax (acrylic finish) tile floors. Early on I stripped an old floor, rinsed it and started applying the acrylic finish without any sealer. I must have put 5 coats on it before I realized I was doing something wrong. My janitorial supplier told me to use a sealer first, 2 coats if necessary, on old, porous floors. It worked. The sealer allowed the finish coats to sit on top and not get sucked into the old floor and the floor glistened like it was wet!

I guess by now you can tell that I really, really, really, really, really like Gardz.

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