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Old 06-07-2019, 08:33 AM   #21
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I call BS on the scoring wheel damaging the wall. As long as you dont press hard, it leaves no marks on the wall whatsoever. I dont see how you think it would make it more difficult either...
Pulling the paper off in full sheets is the ideal way to remove paper (in my opinion). When it is scored, it tears. Not to mention that scoring is a waste of time (ie., not necessary).

I will concede that the wheel shouldn't damage the wall if the correct amount of pressure is used, but are you seriously telling me you've never had to skim over wheel marks on drywall?
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Old 06-08-2019, 06:44 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Holland View Post
Pulling the paper off in full sheets is the ideal way to remove paper (in my opinion). When it is scored, it tears. Not to mention that scoring is a waste of time (ie., not necessary).

I will concede that the wheel shouldn't damage the wall if the correct amount of pressure is used, but are you seriously telling me you've never had to skim over wheel marks on drywall?
Scoring the paper with the tiger wheel is only for when it doesn't come off in full sheets. The idea is to then score and soak so the water gets in behind the outer layer.
Then use a scraper and remove both outer and inner layers at the same time..
I've been removing wallpaper since the 90's and trust me every situation is different..
But at the same time, they all suck.
I don't get too sentimental about whether someone may or may not want it removed in the future. If it's super sound, and going to be a royal pain in the ass to get off. Fine, prime it and paint it.
It may be just as fast to tear the wall out and re drywall if one decides in the future..#.seenitall#



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Old 06-08-2019, 10:44 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Holland View Post
Pulling the paper off in full sheets is the ideal way to remove paper (in my opinion). When it is scored, it tears. Not to mention that scoring is a waste of time (ie., not necessary).

I will concede that the wheel shouldn't damage the wall if the correct amount of pressure is used, but are you seriously telling me you've never had to skim over wheel marks on drywall?
No, I havent. I use ZERO pressure. The wheels are sharp as hell. All you need to do is TOUCH it to the surface. I look really hard at the wall, and dont see anything at all. And if I did... I'd prime it with 123. Its thick enough that it would fill the micro holes anyway.

You only need to do it it the paper is vinyl coated, in which case scoring is not gonna make the paper tear. In my book, The dryer the underside of the paper is, the easier its gonna tear. You cant get the backside of the paper wet without scoring it.

The last few I've done, I pull it down dry, the best I can dry. Wwhatever doesnt, I take the paper tiger, and using NO pressure at all, just run it over the entire surface, spray it down, stick some plastic on the wall to keep it wet, wait, and it comes off like butter.
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Old 06-08-2019, 04:32 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodco View Post
I call BS on the scoring wheel damaging the wall. As long as you dont press hard, it leaves no marks on the wall whatsoever. I dont see how you think it would make it more difficult either...

Clearly, it depends on how heavy the hand that works the wheel.
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Old 06-08-2019, 04:39 PM   #25
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Old 06-08-2019, 08:13 PM   #26
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lJsn6L...fauxfullscreen
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Old 06-08-2019, 08:43 PM   #27
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Since no one has said it yet... I'd like to correct the OP. It's not glue. It's Paste.

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Old 06-09-2019, 06:25 AM   #28
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Holy crap! Now that is pretty cool.

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Old 06-09-2019, 07:57 AM   #29
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Holy crap! Now that is pretty cool.

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I like how it tore through the skim coated and painted canvas lining on the ceiling. Any painters or paper hangers that have been around a while might recall the canvas lining (Sanitas) used for resurfacing old plaster, or the heavier woven fabric faced/vinyl cloth-like backed liners by Wall Over & Wall Cover, pre-dating fiberglass mesh fabric.

Pretty much all painters back then were expected to have basic hanging skills, canvas lining installations over plaster were a common task performed by painters. Iíve done quite a few in my time and removals as well.

Many times when painting old plaster you might encounter what appears to be wallpaper thatís been skim coated and painted over. Chances are itís not, rather, itís more likely one of the repair liners.
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Old 06-09-2019, 02:31 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Alchemy Redux View Post
I like how it tore through the skim coated and painted canvas lining on the ceiling. Any painters or paper hangers that have been around a while might recall the canvas lining (Sanitas) used for resurfacing old plaster, or the heavier woven fabric faced/vinyl cloth-like backed liners by Wall Over & Wall Cover, pre-dating fiberglass mesh fabric.

Pretty much all painters back then were expected to have basic hanging skills, canvas lining installations over plaster were a common task performed by painters. Iíve done quite a few in my time and removals as well.

Many times when painting old plaster you might encounter what appears to be wallpaper thatís been skim coated and painted over. Chances are itís not, rather, itís more likely one of the repair liners.
I'm very familiar with old plaster walls lined in canvas, I used to paint this elderly ladies two flat and the first time I painted the ceilings there were hundreds of bubbles hanging down. Anyway, I stopped and went out for lunch and when I got back they all sucked back down. The ceiling was old plaster with a liner and some of the paint must have gotten under it until it went away after drying.
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Old 06-09-2019, 05:15 PM   #31
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New technology, still looks extremely messy.

Now for the latest German Tech for taping, sanding, and priming wallboard, All operations are performed by some invisible robot or something. Gotta get me one of these!
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Old 06-09-2019, 05:59 PM   #32
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New technology, still looks extremely messy.

Now for the latest German Tech for taping, sanding, and priming wallboard, All operations are performed by some invisible robot or something. Gotta get me one of these! Das Knauf System Uniflott - YouTube
Iíve used a similar UK system called AntiCrack which is a dry mix setting type compound composed of a fiber/resin reinforced gypsum based material, eliminating the need for joint tape and designed for plaster board applications or complete over wall repairs/base coating. Itís pretty much fail-proof when applied to spec. Itís however not available to the trade, a memberís only/partner applicator type product...and doesnít meet building codes here in the states due to drywall taping/jointing requirements for level 1 drywall designations..tape must be used for domestic applications sort of killing the entire tapeless concept.
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Old Yesterday, 07:15 PM   #33
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Try to take 2 free steps forward and wind up taking 5 extra steps back. Putty coat over wallpaper, Whether vinyl, paper or fabric. it will pop even with the best primers. Maybe not the whole substrate, But areas will eventually spiderweb and crack and then lift usually around the edges. Hanging wallpaper back over skim coated wallpaper is a big no no. and people should know better. And paint is a 50/50 crapshoot. If you didn't want to remove the wallpaper your really not gonna want to with primer and a skim coat on it. Skim coating over is a can of worms you don't want.
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Old Yesterday, 09:35 PM   #34
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It all pulled off easily except the corner below the light switch and behind the tools.

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Old Today, 10:32 AM   #35
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There is a product from scotch paints called draw tite. It's a good sealer it will suck down any bubbles in the drywall paper and will solidify any paste or adhesives perfect for what you got there. Good luck.
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Old Today, 07:00 PM   #36
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[quote=Vinyl 54X;1653711]There is a product from scotch paints called draw tite. It's a good sealer it will suck down any bubbles in the drywall paper and will solidify any paste or adhesives perfect for what you got there. Good luck.[/quote @Vinyl 54X , thanks for the tip. I didnt really want to roll on watery BIN shellac primer. I'll see if its available locally somwwheres?

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Old Today, 09:26 PM   #37
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Gardz is a slightly less quality and cheaper version of draw tite, FYI. I dont know the difference between them though....
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