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Old 01-10-2011, 02:48 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by th2765 View Post
Steve,
When I run BIN I run some ammonia/water mix thru first. If you don't the BIN will react badly with the water or pump saver My pump saver is 30W Pennzoil in the sprayer. It kind of curdles and gets cruddy and will form a solid clog in lines and filters. I know! Ammonia cleans up BIN in a flash. Apart from the smell I like the smell of BIN more than the smell of ammoniaBIN works to seal almost anything and sands easily.
I still like Coverstain. It'll seal just about anything too.

I think BIN works better for sealing odors though...I'm sure if that's wrong, someone will correct me.
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Old 01-10-2011, 04:49 PM   #22
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Steve,

The suitability of BIN (and other sealers) have been discussed here often - I'd suggest you do a search, but IMO the vBulletin search feature sucks.

I've always been under the belief that different sealers have their individual niches. BIN is excellent for smoke and the related odors. It is also good for knots.

Although I can't remember if I found it good for permanent marker, crayon, and/or ink. I think oil Kilz did those.



BTW, all, would it be a wise idea to have a fire extinguisher at the ready when spraying an alcohol solvent material ???



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Old 01-10-2011, 05:06 PM   #23
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BTW, all, would it be a wise idea to have a fire extinguisher at the ready when spraying an alcohol solvent material ???
Only if the product is labeled "Combustible" should you start to worry. "Combustible Liquid and Vapors" be extra careful.
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Old 01-10-2011, 08:09 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by bikerboy View Post
Ammonia cleans BIN better than alcohol. (think its even on the can)

A dedicated hose is probably a better idea.
I have found that denatured alcohol does the same as ammonia. Never noticed difference.
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Old 01-12-2011, 12:51 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Richards View Post
First off, I'm not a big fan of BIN...I prefer CoverStain for most stuff.

Anyhow, awhile back I put my sprayer into some... it "moved" all the old/dried latex paint from inside my pump and hose forward.

Not only did I have a MAJOR clog and mess...but it actually broke the filter inside my gun (never seen that before).

I've thought about it since, but I'm not sure just running some alcohol through the pump first woulda prevented it, unless I wanted to let it sit in there and soak.

I guess next time I'll use a new hose?

Maybe I'll just stick to brush&roll w/it...

In the alternative, you could always try cleaning your airless better......



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Old 08-06-2015, 08:43 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Wolfgang View Post
Having done a lot of fire resto work, I had a dedicated pump for Bin and oil sealers. This included a dedicated line and gun also. I've always had dedicated lines and guns for sealers, lacquers, and latex. Sure cut down on any clogging contamination problems. The last few years I switched over to a 3M full face resp. Picked it up at a local pawnshop - brand new - for 10 bucks. I love that thing!

Anytime you use a BIN or oil based sealer ALWAYS keep a box of pre-filters and filters on hand. They're only good for a short period of time. The old rule was if you could "taste" it through your resp, you needed to change filters. Also it's a good idea to wear a Tyvek type suit to keep your skin from absorbing the stuff. There were a few times I'd be doing a major sealing job and take a rest and break into the shakes. Not good.
Which filters do you use for your full face, the N95? I have a contractor saying to use the P100 pink ones but looking over BINS msds sheets I cannot see it say that is required for PPE. In the msds it says;

RESPIRATORY PROTECTION: A respiratory protection program that meets OSHA 1910.134 and ANSI Z88.2 requirements must be
followed whenever workplace conditions warrant a respirator's use. A NIOSH/MSHA approved air purifying respirator with organic
vapor cartridge or canister may be permissible under certain circumstances where airborne concentrations are expected to exceed
exposure limits.

So just curious which you were using, maybe if it was the regular N95 cartridges and the P100's would be better for this material. I'm curious as I'm doing a fire restoration coming up real soon. Any other filter info would be great!
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Old 08-06-2015, 08:47 PM   #27
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You need an Organic Vapour filter. I believe, don't quote me OV 6100 is what we use. I'd has to double check. The N95 and P100 are just glorified dust masks and are not meant for BIN
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Old 08-06-2015, 08:49 PM   #28
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It's 6001. Spraying BIN-imageuploadedbytapatalk1438904951.790569.jpg
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:09 PM   #29
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Those are the ones we use as well, I guess the N95 is the prefilter rating, and they wanted P100, P means oil proof, but BIN is alcohol base so not exactly sure why they are pushing for its use. The P100 are the circular puck shaped prefilter ones though anyhow for a different cartridge. Anyone use those ever for bin and notice any difference in how long they lasted?
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Old 08-06-2015, 11:11 PM   #30
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Sorry didn't read the whole post. You should wear the pre-filters when spraying, it helps the OV filter last a lot longer. The difference between 95 & 100 will be negligible.

Every job is different, a 'regular' BIN spray job a set of filters will last a day. Rolling BIN in a well ventilated house maybe 2 days. If we have to completely enclose the area and vent the room with fans or neg air machines we require our guys to change filters every 4 hours.
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Old 08-07-2015, 12:45 AM   #31
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It's not even a $20 bill for 6001 filters...add it in the bid and go new each time. It's the only filter I ever use, works for everything.

I double down on the on the prefilters. They come with two per side. So I use em all.
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