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Old 12-05-2017, 07:26 PM   #1
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Default Titan Capspray 115 Issues

I cant get the viscosity dialed in I think. It keeps blowing tiny chunks of paint when spraying, it looks like orange peel actually.

Using the #3 tip.
Thinned product about 20%.
Played with settings many times.

Any suggestions?
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Old 12-05-2017, 08:02 PM   #2
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I'm not the foremost expert on the hvlp, but you probably need the #5 needle set.


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Old 12-05-2017, 08:17 PM   #3
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Gonna need more info than that?

What product?
What's the Ambient temp and humidity?
What are you thinning with?
How are you going about achieving your thinned ratio?

Do you have a #4 ford viscosity cup? If so what is the time on your dilution through the cup?


A number 3 tip is good typically for some of the purpose designed waterborne laqcuer/poly finishes and even then they may need thinning. #3 is good for solvent based lacquers and polys typically. Still need to test.

I've had decent luck with thin acrylics like cabinet coat or breakthrough with hvlp with a #4 tip. I use Both with a decent amount of bm512 extender and distilled water. Even than dry overspray and a smidgen of orange peel happens on complicated trim pieces. I don't think the #5 atomizes as nicely as the #4. However maybe that's been my problem all along?

Shooting just base or crown is pretty simple. Multiple doors, crazy built up headers, mantels, multi sided builtins and cabinets are still a struggle for me with the hvlp.

I have had better luck with my airless and a ff tip with acrylics so the hvlp was kinda an expensive mistake. The tritech ff tips really lay paint down nice. Still not totally automotive but easier for me than dialing in the hvlp.

I do want to try the general finishes pigmented poly. I heard that's an easy to shoot waterborne with the hvlp.

When the weather warms I'm going to try shooting various oil primers and solvent lacquer samples with the hvlp to see if I can make it useful for me.

Shooting bin works out nice with the hvlp.

The turbine heat really sucks with the waterbornes. You read about it and tell yourself "it'll work for me" and then it's a bunch of monkeying around trying to make it work.

A good ff tip really isn't much more overspray than the hvlp. The cleanup and material wastes are the killers with airless/aaa.




Quote:
Originally Posted by AmericanVeteranPaint View Post
I cant get the viscosity dialed in I think. It keeps blowing tiny chunks of paint when spraying, it looks like orange peel actually.

Using the #3 tip.
Thinned product about 20%.
Played with settings many times.

Any suggestions?

Last edited by sayn3ver; 12-05-2017 at 08:20 PM..
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Old 12-06-2017, 04:49 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slinger58 View Post
I'm not the foremost expert on the hvlp, but you probably need the #5 needle set.


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The #5 is bigger, I am trying to spray cabinets and trim primarily.
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Old 12-06-2017, 04:52 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sayn3ver View Post
Gonna need more info than that?

What product?
What's the Ambient temp and humidity?
What are you thinning with?
How are you going about achieving your thinned ratio?

Do you have a #4 ford viscosity cup? If so what is the time on your dilution through the cup?


A number 3 tip is good typically for some of the purpose designed waterborne laqcuer/poly finishes and even then they may need thinning. #3 is good for solvent based lacquers and polys typically. Still need to test.

I've had decent luck with thin acrylics like cabinet coat or breakthrough with hvlp with a #4 tip. I use Both with a decent amount of bm512 extender and distilled water. Even than dry overspray and a smidgen of orange peel happens on complicated trim pieces. I don't think the #5 atomizes as nicely as the #4. However maybe that's been my problem all along?

Shooting just base or crown is pretty simple. Multiple doors, crazy built up headers, mantels, multi sided builtins and cabinets are still a struggle for me with the hvlp.

I have had better luck with my airless and a ff tip with acrylics so the hvlp was kinda an expensive mistake. The tritech ff tips really lay paint down nice. Still not totally automotive but easier for me than dialing in the hvlp.

I do want to try the general finishes pigmented poly. I heard that's an easy to shoot waterborne with the hvlp.

When the weather warms I'm going to try shooting various oil primers and solvent lacquer samples with the hvlp to see if I can make it useful for me.

Shooting bin works out nice with the hvlp.

The turbine heat really sucks with the waterbornes. You read about it and tell yourself "it'll work for me" and then it's a bunch of monkeying around trying to make it work.

A good ff tip really isn't much more overspray than the hvlp. The cleanup and material wastes are the killers with airless/aaa.
I use M1 from Sherwin Williams (Its basically Floetrol)

Ok I am starting to share your mistake here being that it is expensive and the low pressure tips with an airless seem to do better. (for now)
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Old 12-07-2017, 01:46 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slinger58 View Post
I'm not the foremost expert on the hvlp, but you probably need the #5 needle set.


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For a product like Emerald Urethane Enamel?
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Old 12-07-2017, 06:49 PM   #7
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I am testing emerald trim now on some shelves and cabinets. Graco4900 #5 tip pressure all the way up thinned 20 -30 percent. Give it a b - so far. Let me know how you make out with it. Not ready to change from kem Aqua +.
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