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Old 03-11-2018, 08:55 PM   #1
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Default Wet sanding/polish acrylic enamels?

What do you guys do when you get a single heavy corner or heavy edge on a horizontal piece like a header above a door or a shelf of a built in. No other imperfections and it was the final coat.

Typically I just sand and respray. If it's something easily masked definitely.

However some times it's not really on the important face or time is of the essence. I was wondering how well higher grit papers or polishing compounds would work on acrylic enamels trim paints for these situations?

Yes I'm aware of the "rub denatured alcohol on it" trick. But that leaves the spot obviously dull/burnished.

I'm thinking of trying some plastic polishing compounds next time like the novus system after sanding.

Again I wouldn't consider this if it was a run or blemish in the middle of a wainscoting panel or door. But a heavy edge on the underside of a typically shadowed area I'd think it would be worth the time saved.

Thoughts?
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Old 03-11-2018, 10:55 PM   #2
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I have rubbed out fully cured Proclassic. Wet sanding with 400, 600, 800 then Meguairs polishing compound. If doing a repair you may end up with shinny smooth spot. I would be cautious on surfaces not fully cured. What topcoat are you using?
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Old 03-12-2018, 10:08 PM   #3
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I always use my hyde carbide scraper to bring it down then sand. It really depends how bad it is. With WB products I have noticed that when sanding alone the areas that are built up, it will only result in a polished bump.

Like mentioned cure time is huge if your trying to sand something. Most products will have a dry time, re-coat time, and a cure time located on the packaging or its MSDS sheet provided by the manufacturer.
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Old 03-12-2018, 11:29 PM   #4
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Typically I'm shooting ppg breakthrough if I'm spraying and it'll sand once it's dry to touch. Occasionally use cabinet coat and have shot waterborne si before.

I don't use breakthrough to brush however and brushing isnt anything to sand and repaint the section.

This is an inquiry for those times when all went well except for that single edge and it really would be awesome not to have sand and respray.
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Old 03-13-2018, 10:33 AM   #5
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I have a 1.5" Corona Ryan brush that I use to touch up trim or doors. It lays a nice film down and has saved me from having to respray areas.

Sometimes you just need to spray the object again, I had a similar case with a fireplace mantle last year. The sun shined on this thing directly for 6 hours of the day and you could see everything. Had a small sag, I needed to sand it, mask it again, and reshoot it.
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Old 03-13-2018, 01:10 PM   #6
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I reguarly use the wet sand polishing process to correct imperfections in my kem Aqua plus pigmented topcoat.. I have not done it with breakthrough but I don't see why it wouldn't work with the high voc version. I have a gallon to try on a vanity so I hope it works because I tend to have imperfections. Cabinet coat as I recall takes a while to cure so may not get time savings. I have not used any particular polishing system. I just start with 220 wet dry sandpaper and cut it down almost smooth, move to 400, then 600 or 800. I use Meguairs polish in various cuts medium first then fine. In this process the shine will build and this will need to be blended into the surrounding finish. This is the hard part. Your definition of orange peel may change. As you mentioned this process is acceptable in inconspicuous areas. If you do it on a door face you may have to do the whole door face and then all the other doors. To remove overspray and very light orange peel may just have to use the cutting compounds. You really don't want wax or silicone componds on your surface.
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