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Old 03-16-2019, 08:24 PM   #21
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I set up my rack system in the customers room (10x10) that they weren’t using. I used zipwalls to protect the walls. I have the new spray rack (lazysusan style), which saved space because you don’t need to make room for you to walk around the piece your spraying, just enough to be able to turn it. Yes you could clone the idea but by the time you find all the parts, drilled all the holes, find all the rods and put it all together, how much time and money would thatve cost you? Two jobs and you’ve paid for it. Plus it’s a buisness expense.
I’ll be buying another rack system. Oh and painting both sides in one shot saves you halve the time.
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Old 03-16-2019, 08:39 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OT Painting View Post
I set up my rack system in the customers room (10x10) that they weren’t using. I used zipwalls to protect the walls. I have the new spray rack (lazysusan style), which saved space because you don’t need to make room for you to walk around the piece your spraying, just enough to be able to turn it. Yes you could clone the idea but by the time you find all the parts, drilled all the holes, find all the rods and put it all together, how much time and money would thatve cost you? Two jobs and you’ve paid for it. Plus it’s a buisness expense.
I’ll be buying another rack system. Oh and painting both sides in one shot saves you halve the time.
So true
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Old 03-16-2019, 09:17 PM   #23
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I set up my rack system in the customers room (10x10) that they werenít using. I used zipwalls to protect the walls. I have the new spray rack (lazysusan style), which saved space because you donít need to make room for you to walk around the piece your spraying, just enough to be able to turn it. Yes you could clone the idea but by the time you find all the parts, drilled all the holes, find all the rods and put it all together, how much time and money would thatve cost you? Two jobs and youíve paid for it. Plus itís a buisness expense.
Iíll be buying another rack system. Oh and painting both sides in one shot saves you halve the time.
Right on, the amount of space saved alone makes them worth it.

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Old 04-03-2019, 09:57 AM   #24
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Has anybody used the coat hanger system? They sell one for about 400 which includes hangers, racks, etc.. I like the idea I've only having to putty two tiny little holes on a part of the door that's not even visible, but the idea of doing all the coats vertically kind of worry me. I'm curious if anyone has used them and needed to alter their spray technique.
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Old 04-10-2019, 05:10 PM   #25
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Has anybody used the coat hanger system? They sell one for about 400 which includes hangers, racks, etc.. I like the idea I've only having to putty two tiny little holes on a part of the door that's not even visible, but the idea of doing all the coats vertically kind of worry me. I'm curious if anyone has used them and needed to alter their spray technique.
.
We actually did a extensive thorough comparison between the door rack system versus clothes hanger system.
the actual amount of paint that can be sprayed on a clothes hanger system is considerably less than the amount you can apply using the door rack painter system.
It's second thing to consider is the fact that the doors always have a tendency to spin just a little bit with the clothes hanger system and with today's paints for cabinets we have to consider that the material is a thinner viscosity which means there is a much greater chance of having runs or sags. This is really not a concern with the door rack painter system since everything is being spray-painted horizontally. When things are sprayed horizontally you get a much better build of paint and therefore get a much better results then you would with a clothes hanger system.
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Old 04-10-2019, 10:03 PM   #26
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I spray waterbourne lacquer through turbine hvlp. I use the hanger system for first two thin coats. Sand to 400 the put on turntable and float on a final coat to the fronts only.
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Old 04-22-2019, 06:09 PM   #27
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Here's some pics of the track and plastic I have in my shop aka garage. Next week I have a cabinet job so I'll take some pics of it set up.



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Man I ask where you sourced your curtains and track? Great idea!
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Old 04-22-2019, 08:24 PM   #28
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The curtain is tyvak with garnets I installed and the track with the rolling hooks i think I got from Amazon.

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Old 05-24-2019, 09:02 PM   #29
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Both Wide doors and drawer fronts
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Old 05-24-2019, 10:39 PM   #30
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We have a really hard time flipping dark color stuff at our shop and not having it mar or stick at all. I like spraying flat, but did buy the hanging system to try as well to avoid having to let things cure to do the other side. I do not like having to do thin coats though.

I might try doing primers flat, then the rest vertical so you get the build to fill grain.

I am tempted to get a portable AC unit for the spray room to see if removing humidity helps flip dark color doors sooner. Scuff-X, Aura, Advance, etc they all stick it seems for us.
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Old 05-25-2019, 07:34 AM   #31
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We have a really hard time flipping dark color stuff at our shop and not having it mar or stick at all. I like spraying flat, but did buy the hanging system to try as well to avoid having to let things cure to do the other side. I do not like having to do thin coats though.

I might try doing primers flat, then the rest vertical so you get the build to fill grain.

I am tempted to get a portable AC unit for the spray room to see if removing humidity helps flip dark color doors sooner. Scuff-X, Aura, Advance, etc they all stick it seems for us.
I agree about the dark colours. They seem to take a long time to harden up properly. I have both a dehumidifier and a humidifier in my spray room depending on conditions.
50% at 70į is optimal. Imo.

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Old 05-25-2019, 10:36 AM   #32
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dehumidifiers work great with stuff like advance.
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Old 05-25-2019, 11:07 AM   #33
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I will probably need to give that a try. Other guys say they have never had an issue with dark colors sticking in Scuff-X, but we still do. Worse in humid weather I think. It took 2 weeks last summer to flip a set of Hale Navy cabinet doors without them sticking. They feel dry, but still mar on the back side or stick.
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Old 05-25-2019, 05:21 PM   #34
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I will probably need to give that a try. Other guys say they have never had an issue with dark colors sticking in Scuff-X, but we still do. Worse in humid weather I think. It took 2 weeks last summer to flip a set of Hale Navy cabinet doors without them sticking. They feel dry, but still mar on the back side or stick.
I have a steel rack and dry them flat most of the time. I also have a hangar setup built with PVC pipes for vertical spraying.

I place cardboard on top of the steel wire racks and that prevents any indentation when flipping the doors over (after a few days) when using Advance. I'd think Scuff-X would be an even faster turnaround.

I just sprayed some cab doors a medium gray color without an issue and before that an Oxford Brown.

Have you ever tried Renner paints? The Idaho painter just completed a finishing course using waterbased Renner coatings for cabinets.

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Old 05-27-2019, 06:34 AM   #35
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I have a steel rack and dry them flat most of the time. I also have a hangar setup built with PVC pipes for vertical spraying.



I place cardboard on top of the steel wire racks and that prevents any indentation when flipping the doors over (after a few days) when using Advance. I'd think Scuff-X would be an even faster turnaround.



I just sprayed some cab doors a medium gray color without an issue and before that an Oxford Brown.



Have you ever tried Renner paints? The Idaho painter just completed a finishing course using waterbased Renner coatings for cabinets.



INDUSTRIAL H20 Cabinet Coatings. Painting HAZARDS! - YouTube
I would imagine that stuff is spray only..?

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Old 05-27-2019, 08:16 AM   #36
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I too am curious about Renner paints. Anybody try them yet?
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