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Old 12-15-2016, 12:08 AM   #1
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Default Filling Oak Grain For Cabinet Paint with 3m Patch and Primer

It is used under all kinds of topcoats for trim painting why would filling grain in cabinets be any different?



Why is this a good idea and everyone should do it?


Why is it a bad idea?
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Old 12-15-2016, 12:20 AM   #2
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First one to post: Bad idea.
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Old 12-15-2016, 12:24 AM   #3
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Reason being: For me..it wouldn't dry hard enough and I wouldn't trust it to not shrink.

They have special formulation for grain filling for a reason. Otherwise sheetrock mud would work (aka joint compound).

The 3m patch and primer is meant for patching mostly sheetrock repairs and is thus formulated to do so properly. From personal experience, it doesn't dry very hard and with fillers you need to be able to clean & sand them well.

I would avoid having issues and just use the right stuff. You can get a gallon of it from Sherwin at a pretty good price and a little goes a long ways.
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Old 12-15-2016, 02:46 AM   #4
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3M patch and prime is not good for shallow imperfections suchs as oak grain. I don't believe it's good for much of anything. I find it doesn't sand well at all. It remains built up instead of sanding flat.
Top that off with it is hard to spread and smooth. It dries on the putty knife quickly and dries crusty hard on the knife too fast. It also is not self priming (not that I thought it would be).

Avoid that stuff in my opinion.
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Old 12-15-2016, 03:44 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridesarize View Post
3M patch and prime is not good for shallow imperfections suchs as oak grain. I don't believe it's good for much of anything. I find it doesn't sand well at all. It remains built up instead of sanding flat.
Top that off with it is hard to spread and smooth. It dries on the putty knife quickly and dries crusty hard on the knife too fast. It also is not self priming (not that I thought it would be).

Avoid that stuff in my opinion.

bbbbbuut it says so right on the label
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Old 12-15-2016, 04:25 AM   #6
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It's a terrible ideal. As mentioned, it simply doesn't dry hard enough. There's a reason specialty products for grain filling exist, and that's because the job requires specialty performance.

Coincidentally, I did a vanity recently as part of a bathroom remodel that the home owner had started himself and never finished. He had primed the two cabinet doors and skimmed them out with Easy Sand which is a good deal harder than any spackling compound.

After an inordinate amount of time sanding two vanity doors, re priming and coating with Breakthrough, the doors were still so soft I could barely move them around the shop or sand between coats without nicking them. It was ridiculous.

If you look on here there are several threads on grain filling oak with product suggestions. Everything from brush on grain fillers, to spray on ones. My personal favorite is Masters Finishing Medium from Faux Effects. It can be sprayed, brushed, or rolled on, bonds tenaciously and is hard as a rock. Do yourself a favor and use a product suited for the job.


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Old 12-15-2016, 12:56 PM   #7
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i have no idea why you will kill your self with a product that it will never work for that purpose.
Go auto body shop supply and get your self a gallon of polyester primer. catalyze the product as much as you need in a plastic container and brush like a regular paint.very easy and sands like a chalk after 2 hours.Fills anything you want and sticks to anywhere just be careful )
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Old 12-15-2016, 01:15 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technogod View Post
i have no idea why you will kill your self with a product that it will never work for that purpose.
Go auto body shop supply and get your self a gallon of polyester primer. catalyze the product as much as you need in a plastic container and brush like a regular paint.very easy and sands like a chalk after 2 hours.Fills anything you want and sticks to anywhere just be careful )
Plus you will have the additional benefit of being able to drive those cabinets in any type of traffic when you are done.
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Old 12-15-2016, 02:02 PM   #9
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We use Swedish Putty, either FPOE or shop-made with whiting and enamel undercoater.
Chuck the painter likes this.
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Old 12-15-2016, 03:57 PM   #10
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i was joking either when i realize is not a joke.
trying is believing tough..

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Old 12-15-2016, 10:40 PM   #11
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Thanks for the replies. I am a total novice so things like this pop in my head from time to time and I wonder, "Why wouldn't this work?" Appreciate the responses.
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Old 12-15-2016, 10:44 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodcoyote View Post
Reason being: For me..it wouldn't dry hard enough and I wouldn't trust it to not shrink.

They have special formulation for grain filling for a reason. Otherwise sheetrock mud would work (aka joint compound).

The 3m patch and primer is meant for patching mostly sheetrock repairs and is thus formulated to do so properly. From personal experience, it doesn't dry very hard and with fillers you need to be able to clean & sand them well.

I would avoid having issues and just use the right stuff. You can get a gallon of it from Sherwin at a pretty good price and a little goes a long ways.
You are the man around these parts. lol You have replied to every one of my posts I really appreciate that!

If I am trying to stick to waterborne products only it kind of limits me. It seems that most grain fillers are oil based products. Even sherman williams Sherwood Natural Grain Filler...

I did try AquaCoat Waterborne Clear Grain Filler and it worked well but did not sand very well for me at all. Any suggestions for non toxic grain fillers? Seems to be kind of difficult to find anything.

Also when you finish painting a cabinet if it is white would it be a bad idea to Caulk the gaps on the face with a Urethanized Elastomeric caulking? I know doing it before the top coat can cause cracks but if you did a tiny little bead after the fact it seems that it might work okay and take away from that gross paint in the seam look you get?
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