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Old 09-07-2018, 09:58 AM   #1
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Default Hack for SW Chem Aqua Plus or weak old Chem Aqua

Hi folks-

I have painted cabinets a long time and am searching for better options interms of fast drying and hardness. I tried the regular Chem Aqua on some furniture and a small built in once and I concluded that my hvlp (5 stage) didn't deliver enough paint to get the right sheen and that it was going to need a clear on it but just dropped it as an option. But, if there is a tried and true clear coat for it or other solution please let me know?

I just bought some Chem Aqua Plus and am all ready worried since it does have a foaming problem and like many, my work area is very open to the humidiy and it does rain a lot here. Still, I am going to try it but I know some folks have said it will stick fine if you clean and sand. I think some said a shellac product might work.....maybe you have real experiences that you can share, there used to be a message but I can't find it where a contractor said he has used it hundreds of times.

Chem Aqua Plus has a primer, a reducer for blush, and a clear coat (in 5's). They say the primer is only for raw wood so I wonder if it might stick to well sounded stained cabinets? Or what other primer? I used a zinnsner Shellac on that furniture. The clear, how is that product? They say you don't have to have it, but I like doing all the steps.

Thank you,

Wooster Crowe (cool nick, huh?) I spray inside a lot, do the doors away.
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Old 09-07-2018, 05:15 PM   #2
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I have used Kem Aqua Plus over BIN pigmented shellac primer without any problems. My shop is air conditioned and I run a two dehumidifiers when spraying cabinets. I use a 4 stage Graco Turbine HVLP. Humidity could be a problem for you but it is more likely your spraying technique. With KA+ it is very easy to get flashing when using an HVLP. To much air will dry the finish before it hits the substrate surface. The air from a turbine HVLP will heat up with extended spraying times further complicating this problem. I turn my turbine down to stage 2 and in addition cut air back on gun. I use #3 tip and spray my first two coats of KA+ with doors hanging and drying vertically. I wet/block sand the front surfaces with 400 to 600. I then put on a thicker coat horizontally and let them dry horizontally. I use Meguairs #2 polishing compound to remove fingerprint and tool mark after hanging.

General Finishes makes a product called Enduro white poly which is similar to KA+ but is a little more forgiving. Both these products dry quickly and hard. I can turn around a cabinet job in 4 to 5 days with either product and it will be fully cured.
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Old 09-08-2018, 10:01 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tprice2193 View Post
I have used Kem Aqua Plus over BIN pigmented shellac primer without any problems. My shop is air conditioned and I run a two dehumidifiers when spraying cabinets. I use a 4 stage Graco Turbine HVLP. Humidity could be a problem for you but it is more likely your spraying technique. With KA+ it is very easy to get flashing when using an HVLP. To much air will dry the finish before it hits the substrate surface. The air from a turbine HVLP will heat up with extended spraying times further complicating this problem. I turn my turbine down to stage 2 and in addition cut air back on gun. I use #3 tip and spray my first two coats of KA+ with doors hanging and drying vertically. I wet/block sand the front surfaces with 400 to 600. I then put on a thicker coat horizontally and let them dry horizontally. I use Meguairs #2 polishing compound to remove fingerprint and tool mark after hanging.

General Finishes makes a product called Enduro white poly which is similar to KA+ but is a little more forgiving. Both these products dry quickly and hard. I can turn around a cabinet job in 4 to 5 days with either product and it will be fully cured.
The General Finishes website says "Precat Lacquer" is the improved version of Enduro. It's a WB lacquer. https://www.wwhardware.com/general-f...re-cat-lacquer
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Old 09-09-2018, 09:45 PM   #4
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@Mr Smith - There are several products in the GF Enduro line. The one I was refering to is Enduro White Poly. It is a white pigmented waterbourne lacquer similar the white pigmented Kem Aqua +. It can be tinted and also comes in a premixed black.
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Old 09-11-2018, 10:40 PM   #5
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GF has some good products. I've used their poly, etc. Good stuff, BUT...not as strong as SW industrial type products. Just can't compare.


I have actually compared and some stuff I can't scratch while the GF I can scratch. Just depends on your goals and situations.



Kem Aqua has always been pretty stout, especially the Kem Aqua +.
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Old 09-14-2018, 05:36 AM   #6
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@Mr Smith - There are several products in the GF Enduro line. The one I was refering to is Enduro White Poly. It is a white pigmented waterbourne lacquer similar the white pigmented Kem Aqua +. It can be tinted and also comes in a premixed black.
Tprice. Can any of these products be brushed? Or are these spray specific prodocts. Also what are they reduced with.? I generally like to brush the boxes and spray the doors..
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Old 09-14-2018, 10:27 PM   #7
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@finishesbykevyn Both products are spray only. GF Enduro White Poly has its own extender. It is propylene glycol based so XIM and M-1 will work. KA+ uses butylcellusolve as an extender. You can use water for reducing in small amounts 2 percent or less. Rarely do I reduce or extended either product.
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Old 09-28-2018, 02:36 PM   #8
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Hey I just read your thread and I'm using chem aqua too both primer and paint are water base and I'm having trouble with bubbles in the paint. Could you give me some advice on what's causing them? Thanks for your time
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Old 09-28-2018, 02:36 PM   #9
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I do have pictures
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Hack for SW Chem Aqua Plus or weak old Chem Aqua-20180924_135137_1538160803596.jpg  

Hack for SW Chem Aqua Plus or weak old Chem Aqua-20180928_101151_1538160851345.jpg  


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Old 09-30-2018, 03:31 PM   #10
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Looks like contamination of some kind. Or if the cabinets are sealed then perhaps the previous sealer underneath the coat of paint you put is causing an issue.


Try this:
Scuff sand with black sanding sponges (meant for drywall) [medium grit]
Whipe down with Denatured Alcohol
Once dry and clean, prime one side with Extreme Bond Primer. Leave the other side or 2 back sides just prepped.


Then spray your apply your finish coat. That way you can compare if you need a primer or not.


Typically speaking, if I sand properly and clean properly, I can spray a wb alkyd urethane enamel on top and not risk adhesion issues.





*Don't use water to clean*. It can seep into crevices, get trapped, and cause issues later plus it takes forever to dry. Always use a fast dry solvent like alcohol. Lacquer thinner can work as well as long as you don't have a lacquer sealer on the cabinet as it will destroy and gum up the finish.





Dull, Dry, and Clean. Is the motto as they say.
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Old 09-30-2018, 06:50 PM   #11
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Micro air bubbles. SW should be able to tell you how to remedy the problem.

Been so many years, but there is a ratio of distilled water, alcohol, and butyl to add to it. Just can't remember what it is. But the info came directly from SW. You may want to check their product info.

All I know is that it took care of the problem and even helped the flow out / leveling.
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Old 09-30-2018, 06:50 PM   #12
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Micro air bubbles. SW should be able to tell you how to remedy the problem.

Been so many years, but there is a ratio of distilled water, alcohol, and butyl to add to it. Just can't remember what it is. But the info came directly from SW. You may want to check their product info.

All I know is that it took care of the problem and even helped the flow out / leveling.
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Old 09-30-2018, 10:55 PM   #13
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Microbubbles have been a big issue with WB lacquers for years. This is why it's not used by the majority of painters.

Adding Butyl cellosolve has been known to help because it extends the open time of Kem Aqua. As a retarder, It allows the WB lacquer time to settle down.

http://www.innovation-plus.com.tw/es...2138419876.pdf

Having good air circulation is important. Using fans help.

Last edited by Mr Smith; 09-30-2018 at 10:58 PM..
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Old 10-01-2018, 09:39 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Smith View Post
Microbubbles have been a big issue with WB lacquers for years. This is why it's not used by the majority of painters.

Adding Butyl cellosolve has been known to help because it extends the open time of Kem Aqua. As a retarder, It allows the WB lacquer time to settle down.

http://www.innovation-plus.com.tw/es...2138419876.pdf

Having good air circulation is important. Using fans help.
Yeah, what he said.
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