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Old 02-20-2019, 08:42 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by finishesbykevyn View Post
Then why do you recommend it over skim coats instead of a tinted acrylic primer.? Just curious as that's what you suggested in the other thread?
I still think either is overkill when your putting a couple coats of impervio on it anyhow.
What's wrong with a regular high quality drywall primer like Super Spec. That stuff is great!

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Once the skim coat is on, just treat it as you would any fresh drywall! On the top there are no bubble issues. It's all new surface! "A regular high quality drywall primer" will be just fine.
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Old 02-20-2019, 08:46 PM   #42
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Once the skim coat is on, just treat it as you would any fresh drywall! On the top there are no bubble issues. It's all new surface! "A regular high quality drywall primer" will be just fine.
Exactly

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Old 02-21-2019, 07:00 AM   #43
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For the best looking finish I don't think a drywall primer under satin impervo is a good idea. I would rather have an oil based enamel undercoat that is good and sandable


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Old 02-21-2019, 09:54 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finishesbykevyn View Post
Then why do you recommend it over skim coats instead of a tinted acrylic primer.? Just curious as that's what you suggested in the other thread?
I still think either is overkill when your putting a couple coats of impervio on it anyhow.
What's wrong with a regular high quality drywall primer like Super Spec. That stuff is great!

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The reason I was suggesting using gardz on the skimcoat is because it was already used to seal the drywall, and I think it would make life easier to keep using it instead of buying more primer, and doing the extra clean up. I like to simplify things. And it will take a basic pole sand, just not a deep sand, like you'd be able to do with BIN underneath satin impervo.
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Old 02-22-2019, 12:06 AM   #45
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I'm looking into a future job for bin on bare drywall bc all walls and ceilings are spec'd for satin impervo. Unless there is an oil primer that will go straight over bare drywall without pulling chunks of mud with it. I have had that happen before


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You talking Waterborne Satin Impervo or Satin Impervo (alkyd)? JC
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Old 02-22-2019, 08:05 PM   #46
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Alkyd satin impervo. It's going on new drywall. I want to use an oil primer that works on uncoated mud and is very sandable


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Old 02-22-2019, 08:37 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by jr.sr. painting View Post
Alkyd satin impervo. It's going on new drywall. I want to use an oil primer that works on uncoated mud and is very sandable


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Well, BIN is a great undercoat for SI. We always used BIN or BM Alkyd Enamel Underbody under Satin Impervo. Both work well, but I always prefered BIN. Nothing sands down like BIN. Put hundreds if not thousands of gallons of that on in my day. SI isn't the paint it once was, but still a darned good enamel. Glad to see there are still guys out there using it.
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Old 02-22-2019, 09:34 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr.sr. painting View Post
For the best looking finish I don't think a drywall primer under satin impervo is a good idea. I would rather have an oil based enamel undercoat that is good and sandable


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Well they do call BIN "the silver bullet". And it's very sandable. And less stinky than oil.
But hey! This go's back to the OP.. My new love for BIN.

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Old 02-24-2019, 06:00 AM   #49
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BIN aka Burns In Nostrils (bet you didn't realize that's where the name originates) is the bomb!
if you're worried about running it in your pump, look on offer up or craigslist. you can find a tiny little used or barely used airless for cheap. a lot of homeowners and DIY buy the cheesy graco pumps from HD for $200 and use them once maybe twice only to wind up selling them for $50.
I had a customer give me a very used looking one for free, its still kickin
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Old 02-27-2019, 11:00 AM   #50
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I used SealCoat (dewaxed shellac) as a primer to prevent grain raising under water based PPG Breakthrough!

No grain raising, but the finish looked like antiqued craised, and with poor adhesion. I sanded off the finish and applied the Breakthrough with no primer and it coated evenly and has good adhesion (and did not raise the grain).

Since BIN is shellac based, will it also create adhesion issues with Breakthrough?

As promised the Breakthrough dried quickly (re-coated in one hour) and after 3 days cure it was a very hard finish. Nice stuff.

I needed a white, and I had the dealer color match to the caulk I was using so I don't have to worry when I caulk anything--a really good color match.
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Old 02-27-2019, 02:19 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by Packard View Post
I used SealCoat (dewaxed shellac) as a primer to prevent grain raising under water based PPG Breakthrough!

No grain raising, but the finish looked like antiqued craised, and with poor adhesion. I sanded off the finish and applied the Breakthrough with no primer and it coated evenly and has good adhesion (and did not raise the grain).

Since BIN is shellac based, will it also create adhesion issues with Breakthrough?

As promised the Breakthrough dried quickly (re-coated in one hour) and after 3 days cure it was a very hard finish. Nice stuff.

I needed a white, and I had the dealer color match to the caulk I was using so I don't have to worry when I caulk anything--a really good color match.
Breakthrough is garbage. You can use it over BIN, but you have to wait 24 hours for all the denatured to evaporate.

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Old 02-28-2019, 11:51 AM   #52
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BIN is awesome for stain coverage but it's very brittle.

I sprayed some on a smooth piece of rubber and when I bent it, it cracked like hell and the flakes were jumping off by themselves. Same test with Coverstain revealed that the film maintained elasticity and adhesion, and it stayed put.

My concern with BIN is that if the underlying surface is subjected to enough temperature variation to cause expansion/contraction, it will crack through.


On a side note, SW extreme bond primer, while useless for covering stains, it has amazing grip and scratch resistance on minimally prepped glossy trim and cabinet doors (no scuffing, only wiped with denat alcohol). Dries fast, almost no odor, saves hours of prep.
I used BIN to spot prime knots on pressure treated lumber for outdoors. For those small areas, it is fine outdoors.

I've only brushed on BIN. For HVLP spray, do you shoot it straight or do you thin it? If you thin it, by how much? I have some cabinets to shoot and I have a gallon of BIN and I think I will try it on the cabinets.
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Old 02-28-2019, 01:04 PM   #53
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BIN is one product you should never have to thin.
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Old 02-28-2019, 05:12 PM   #54
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BIN is one product you should never have to thin.
Thank you.
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Old 02-28-2019, 11:08 PM   #55
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I always cut seal coat with a good alcohol (10-15%) and then sand with a good 150 3m sanding sponge.. never had a problem using multiple clears over it......a great sanding sealer for clear finishing !!
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Old 03-01-2019, 02:23 PM   #56
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If I have a guy having problems with BIN failing to adhere what would you suggest he suspect? They've sanded the finish down, cleaned with denatured alc, spray BIN, topcoat with GF Pigmented Poly two coats. There have been three doors so far that have chipped/ peeled off including the BIN primer.
Someone mentioned my suspicion about the brittle nature of BIN. This winter we have had a constantly variable climate with days 50+ and 15 the next day. Spring with a certainty of snow. Point being I thought that maybe the conditions plus the movement & handling of doors may be causing the problem for a brittle coating.
Any other suggestions?
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Old 03-01-2019, 02:33 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heartlandpaint View Post
If I have a guy having problems with BIN failing to adhere what would you suggest he suspect? They've sanded the finish down, cleaned with denatured alc, spray BIN, topcoat with GF Pigmented Poly two coats. There have been three doors so far that have chipped/ peeled off including the BIN primer.
Someone mentioned my suspicion about the brittle nature of BIN. This winter we have had a constantly variable climate with days 50+ and 15 the next day. Spring with a certainty of snow. Point being I thought that maybe the conditions plus the movement & handling of doors may be causing the problem for a brittle coating.
Any other suggestions?

Are these exterior doors? Just asking because BIN is only rated for spot priming of exterior surfaces. Maybe I'm not reading your post correctly.
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Old 03-01-2019, 02:38 PM   #58
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No sorry, I guess I didn't mention they were cabinets. It's happening on the doors but not anywhere on the boxes.
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Old 03-01-2019, 03:46 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by The Montana Painter View Post
I always cut seal coat with a good alcohol (10-15%) and then sand with a good 150 3m sanding sponge.. never had a problem using multiple clears over it......a great sanding sealer for clear finishing !!
I second that. SealCoat is great!
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Old 03-02-2019, 07:18 PM   #60
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Since a BIN related thread is rolling, well...for the love of BIN>

Nearly every first coat of BIN I spray there are tons of pock marks or "cratering."
My assumption is its due to contaminates like grease on cabinet doors, but I clean very very well with krud kutter and sand like a madman before I prime. My method has just to spend a lot of time sanding to correct this between coats.

Is this just a characteristic of spraying BIN via hvlp onto a somewhat raw substrate? I get better results with a heavier mil thickness coating, and second coat is always much better.

And if it really is a contamination problem, what other cleaners would you recommend the cut the crap? I usually do two rounds of krud kutter and of course foculize on the particularly nasty spots which are taken to raw wood.
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