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Old 03-25-2020, 10:36 PM   #1
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Default Painted woodwork

Any tips or tricks for painted woodwork in a house. All new construction. Our general order of operations is prime and paint walls before flooring cabinets trim... first day of trim paint we pull and label all doors for finish at shop. Caulk base jambs and window trim to the wall so we can brush the wall color onto the trim. Next day we caulk the rest of the jamb interiors and windows and start masking. After masking we spackle all the nail holes and sand. Vacuum everything and spray a first coat. We check caulking and spackle and second coat. Pull masking touch up any overspray hand the doors. This is best case scenario. It never seems to work to work out that way. We consistently fall short of budget hours. I’m not sure if we are going about it wrong or what. Any tips would be greatly appreciated
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Old 03-25-2020, 10:53 PM   #2
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- Prime.

- Fill all nail holes and then light sand all, including walls/ceilings (the latter with pole sander).

- Caulk it all. The whole boat.

- Spray the ceilings.


- Spray all trim including doors in place. Skip the whole pull off the doors and drag them to the shop and then drag them back to re-hang. While you are free of drop cloths blow them all out with the trim.

- Skip the masking, except maybe the base (mostly for roller splatter). Cut and roll the walls.

That's my $.02 anyway.
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Old 03-25-2020, 10:58 PM   #3
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Priming and painting two coats on walls with a brush and roller seems like a lot of time. Also do you have old hinges to put on doors and spray or do you mask hinges?
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Old 03-25-2020, 11:16 PM   #4
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I was assuming a sprayer for primer, ceilings, and trim/doors (since you're taking doors back to the shop. If you're not doing this to spray then it doesn't make any sense, and b/c you're touching up overspray).


The least time-consuming thing on a job is cutting and rolling walls. This is the breeze. The most annoying is ceilings, and the most time consuming, if not spraying, is trim (after all of that masking to boot). Cut walls twice with full dry in between and before the 2X roll. Walls are fast and easy.


As for door hinges, just do the hinge edge by hand and, yes, quick pc of tape around the nubs. spray the faces. Any overspray on the flat parts of the hinges is easily wiped.

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Old 03-25-2020, 11:24 PM   #5
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We are spraying everything. We have tried something like that in the past. Prime everything paint trim and then mask it and spray walls. A lot of the texture these days is smooth wall. We had issues with wall paint flashing and building sheen over the trim paint.
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Old 03-25-2020, 11:25 PM   #6
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We would end up with halos around all the trim
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Old 03-25-2020, 11:36 PM   #7
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I promise that brushing and rolling walls is fast (or will get so after doing more of it) and after 2 coats there should be no halos. Just make sure everything is 100% dry before doing the next stage.
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Old 03-25-2020, 11:58 PM   #8
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Why do you take the doors to your shop? Thats where you're losing your ass.

I also say its way faster to do your walls last.

For high end NC,

I prime everything.
Finish out the ceilings and closets.
Come back when trim is up.
Pull and label doors. Mask hinges.
Putty, caulk, mask where needed.
Prime. Spray doors.
Sand primer, and touch up caulk spackle where needed.
Finish Trim.
Cut and roll walls.

I have a MUCH simpler/faster system for low end/tract homes.
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Old 03-26-2020, 12:14 AM   #9
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Most of our houses are high end. 500-750k range. The doors generally need prepped and caulked. Are you spraying doors standing up. We have a full booth and spray four doors at a time on door deckers. Two guys can prep caulk and two coat doors in about 10 man hours.
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Old 03-26-2020, 12:24 AM   #10
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Also are you guys hand cutting your trim lines? Or pulling lines with tape?
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Old 03-26-2020, 08:04 AM   #11
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Also are you guys hand cutting your trim lines? Or pulling lines with tape?
For me, it depends on how contrasting the colors are.
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Old 03-26-2020, 08:11 AM   #12
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Most of our houses are high end. 500-750k range. The doors generally need prepped and caulked. Are you spraying doors standing up. We have a full booth and spray four doors at a time on door deckers. Two guys can prep caulk and two coat doors in about 10 man hours.
I do them standing up. I use cheap 3/4" sticks, cut to about 2 1/2' long. Screw the end to the top of the door, and lean the other end against the wall, so you have room to walk around and do both sides. You can set up 3 or 4 in each room. I like this better than the accordian method cuz it only takes one person. Also, you can easily move them around. I will generally lean the door itself against the wall to sand, and caulk, then pull it away and move the stick against the wall to spray.
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Old 03-26-2020, 11:56 AM   #13
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Also are you guys hand cutting your trim lines? Or pulling lines with tape?

I almost always hand cut. But for this to work it does require a) good drywall/carpentry work (not guaranteed even in a $500K+ job), b) nice, clean caulk-in, and c) of course, good brushes. The contrast can also matter as well as the typical "perspective" from which various things will be seen.
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Old 03-26-2020, 12:09 PM   #14
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One of the most interesting things about PT is hearing how everybody has a different system....and how many times ideas you think are "your ideas" are being used by others.

What part of the country are you in that $500,000 is considered high end? That would be average in many markets. High average maybe, but not high end.
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Old 03-26-2020, 12:33 PM   #15
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We would end up with halos around all the trim
I never allow overspray onto the walls when shooting trim.

I don't do new construction very often but check out how XC Painter does it. (He has another username in here)

He does all the priming, walls and ceiling first and the trim and doors last. He simply masks around all the baseboards and trim and sprays them out last.

I assume he caulks and primes the trim before the finish coats of durapoxy. You'd at least need to do the caulking before taping the walls.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B3x7vdTB...on_share_sheet

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Old 03-26-2020, 03:22 PM   #16
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This is the way we are currently doing it. Yields great results but just seems like it takes way too long
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Old 03-26-2020, 03:25 PM   #17
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Lightning boy 65

We are located in north Idaho. We also do a little bit in eastern Washington. I should have rephrased that. Most spec homes are in the 500-750 range. Most of our custom stuff breaks into the million range.
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Old 03-26-2020, 03:55 PM   #18
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This is the way we are currently doing it. Yields great results but just seems like it takes way too long

It will yield great results.


One thing I'd do is just second woodco and rethink the doors. See if you can figure out an "onsite" production model screwing a slab of something to the tops of the doors so they can be leaned and sprayed, spun and moved while wet. Set it up so all doors in the whole house are being done all at once. I'm betting you can get all doors down to about - well, ok, not 10 man hours but a lot less than now.


Of course, this would require some suitable space, so logistically it may not be possible. Personally, I'd be thinking about just spraying them in place whenever possible...a little tape for the hinges.
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Old 03-26-2020, 06:15 PM   #19
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With my stick method, you dont need to spin the doors, or move when wet, but unlike the accordian method, you CAN move them when dry if you want. They are about 2.5' to 3' away from the wall. You couldnt do that method if the walls were already done though. Well, you could, but you'd have to drape the room...

I've done both methods, and I think its WAY easier and faster to do the trim before the walls. Whether you want to mask to prevent halos is up to you. I've never had a problem with halos, as I feather the spray out on the wall a little bit, but I do sometimes mask the walls anyway, even if its just 6" paper. I guess its better safe than sorry...

Here is an example of how I lean my doors. I just set this up to show, btw. You can leave them alone till they dry, and you can move them around when dry. sorry its sideways...

I definitely dont think high end doors should be sprayed in place. For low end, or light doors, I just put cardboard, and stickers in the middle of the floor spray a side, flip, and walk it to the wall on the top of my foot and lean it by the corner. You can do them all in about an hour.
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Old 03-26-2020, 08:12 PM   #20
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Quote:
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With my stick method, you dont need to spin the doors, or move when wet, but unlike the accordian method, you CAN move them when dry if you want. They are about 2.5' to 3' away from the wall. You couldnt do that method if the walls were already done though. Well, you could, but you'd have to drape the room...

I've done both methods, and I think its WAY easier and faster to do the trim before the walls. Whether you want to mask to prevent halos is up to you. I've never had a problem with halos, as I feather the spray out on the wall a little bit, but I do sometimes mask the walls anyway, even if its just 6" paper. I guess its better safe than sorry...

Here is an example of how I lean my doors. I just set this up to show, btw. You can leave them alone till they dry, and you can move them around when dry. sorry its sideways...

I definitely dont think high end doors should be sprayed in place. For low end, or light doors, I just put cardboard, and stickers in the middle of the floor spray a side, flip, and walk it to the wall on the top of my foot and lean it by the corner. You can do them all in about an hour.

Ah. Long sticks to get to both sides at once. On the occasions that I do this it's because I've got a lot of them to do and limited space. So I basically set up one "production area." The sticks are short for space concerns. Hit a side, spin the door, hit the other side. Then often move it somewhere and lean it to dry, and then move the next piece in. This generally does make it a 2 person operation to help spin/move doors. (Or whatever as I'll do it with any "slab" stuff like when pre-painting shelving or something.) Even if it needs 2 people, it's still really fast if you just set up the logistics right.
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