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Old 03-26-2019, 10:38 PM   #101
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For some reason i can not get my photos to upload. Whats the easiest way?

I was having the same issue! Try uploading one at a time. I did that for a few and then the issue about "security tokens" just went away. I can upload at will now. If that fails, contact Cricket.
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Old 03-26-2019, 10:38 PM   #102
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OK, what about using automotive paints to do kitchen cabinets.
Or do they stink to high heaven even water based types?
Bad idea. Too thin, too brittle. and yes, very toxic.
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Old 03-26-2019, 11:06 PM   #103
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For some reason i can not get my photos to upload. Whats the easiest way?
You need to have 20 posts posted in order to have that option available to you.
Right now you have 16 posts.
Use the: "Manage Attachments" box below the box/window where you type your post.
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Old 03-26-2019, 11:32 PM   #104
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Bad idea. Too thin, too brittle. and yes, very toxic.
But on the other hand we don't need better longer lasting paints for cabinets.
We need job securities, lol.
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Old 03-27-2019, 02:42 PM   #105
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But on the other hand we don't need better longer lasting paints for cabinets.
We need job securities, lol.
Yikes
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Old 03-27-2019, 03:09 PM   #106
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Yikes
What? lol, it's good for you too. You sell more paint.
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Old 03-27-2019, 07:54 PM   #107
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To the OP did you say you don’t have access to BM paints? We have switched over to Scuff-X for the majority of our cabinets and trim although we still use advance at times. I think it AdVance actually rolls better for doing the boxes but we can get good results with the ScuffX. Now for some real controversy we started caulking the
front panels on cabinet doors after years of not. It just looks better generally. Ok go!
Agreed.
Chances of front panels on cabinet doors moving again, (especially if very high quality caulk used) are very minimal.
But chances of them looking terrible and cheap without caulking are almost 100%.
I take the chance and caulk every time, unless the doors are old or of such poor quality and are rattling badly.
Assuming they are in average dry/humidity environment.
Agreed caulking looks better.
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Old 03-28-2019, 12:19 PM   #108
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No they should look las close to factory as possible and they don't fill them.

They should look like this...


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Old 03-28-2019, 02:12 PM   #109
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No they should look las close to factory as possible and they don't fill them.

They should look like this...


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Some old cabinets look worse than others. I've caulked some old Blond Oak Cab doors that had very large gaps compared to your example. Some of the newer doors have been mitered much better so I don't always caulk them.
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Old 03-28-2019, 06:35 PM   #110
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We are partial to a caulked door. If you're using a high grade caulk that you know will flex with the movement of the door rarely will you have anything that will crack out.
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Old 03-29-2019, 08:41 AM   #111
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No they should look las close to factory as possible and they don't fill them.

They should look like this...


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Looks good! What products did you use for your refinish job?
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Old 03-29-2019, 11:38 AM   #112
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Looks good! What products did you use for your refinish job?
Primed with BIN and painted with Breakthrough satin.

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Old 03-29-2019, 12:06 PM   #113
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Looks good! What products did you use for your refinish job?
Primed with BIN and painted with Breakthrough satin.

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Nice ..I'm about to paint a set with break through. What spray equipment and tip or needle size did you use?

Did you spray your doors flat or vertical.
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Old 03-29-2019, 04:52 PM   #114
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Nice ..I'm about to paint a set with break through. What spray equipment and tip or needle size did you use?

Did you spray your doors flat or vertical.
I used the high VOC version sprayed flat with a 308 tip through a Graco Profinish II.

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Old 03-29-2019, 11:09 PM   #115
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I try not to caulk doors. I agree with Brigs that that a clean, uniform gap between the panels and the styles/rails looks just fine. Thatís how they would come from a cabinet shop.

That said, itís not always possible to get a clean, uniform gap. Especially if thereís any grain reduction involved, like with oak cabinets. Excessive bridging of the paint film between the panels and styles looks like crap. So in those cases I do caulk them.

It depends a lot on how the doors are put together,what kind of wood theyíre made from, and the climate of the area, but in general door panels are made to float. They move around during climatic/humidity changes. If you live in an area where heating and cooling the interior space fluctuate markedly throughout the year, floating panels Will move. Caulked or not.

Iíve had three call backs over cracks where the panels meet the frames out of a few dozen cabinet jobs Iíve done in the past 4 or 5 years. One with uncaulked panels, and two with caulked panels. Itís not a big deal to fix these issues, but it does seem to be harder to fix if the panels were caulked initially.

Hereís a couple pics from uncaulked panels that moved around after a seasonal change



To the OP, Iíve found the 250 VOC Breakthrough to be the best product for cabinets that Iíve tried. Fixing the defects created on the sets pictured was easy to do with the BT.


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Old 03-30-2019, 06:04 AM   #116
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250voc version Breakthrough is really hard to beat. My house is like a giant BT testing ground. My office desk, stair treads, handrails, and kitchen cabinets are all breakthrough. Me and my kids are walking on, cooking around it, and dragging stuff across it everyday and the paint takes the abuse like a champ.

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Old 03-30-2019, 06:51 AM   #117
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250voc version Breakthrough is really hard to beat. My house is like a giant BT testing ground. My office desk, stair treads, handrails, and kitchen cabinets are all breakthrough. Me and my kids are walking on, cooking around it, and dragging stuff across it everyday and the paint takes the abuse like a champ.

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So sad I can't get it in my area. Advance is the runner up, however this new Scuffx is really impressing me lately..just sprayed a fireplace and some spindles with it. Very impressed with quick blocking time and hardness.

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Old 04-08-2019, 04:49 PM   #118
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I build my own kitchen cabinets in a home workshop. I've been using unfinished plywood for the boxes and applying a waterborn finish to the interior and Breakthrough! 250VOC. to the exterior.

For about $8.00 extra per cabinet I can use pre-finished plywood from Columbia Wood products. This from their website:

UV Woodô Ė Simple yet beautiful hardwood plywood with a scratch-resistant clear topcoat. A great choice for basic cabinetry and box building. Meets Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturing Association (KCMA) requirements for stain resistance of typical household products like mustard and ketchup.

Question: Would you bother to paint box interiors if you could get the material pre-finished?


The prefinished also reduces my build time. Mine is not a production shop and I usually make 4 to 10 cabinets as a "production" run, at which time I run out of room and I have to deliver the cabinets before proceeding.
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Old 04-09-2019, 08:41 AM   #119
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I build my own kitchen cabinets in a home workshop. I've been using unfinished plywood for the boxes and applying a waterborn finish to the interior and Breakthrough! 250VOC. to the exterior.

For about $8.00 extra per cabinet I can use pre-finished plywood from Columbia Wood products. This from their website:

UV Wood™ – Simple yet beautiful hardwood plywood with a scratch-resistant clear topcoat. A great choice for basic cabinetry and box building. Meets Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturing Association (KCMA) requirements for stain resistance of typical household products like mustard and ketchup.

Question: Would you bother to paint box interiors if you could get the material pre-finished?


The prefinished also reduces my build time. Mine is not a production shop and I usually make 4 to 10 cabinets as a "production" run, at which time I run out of room and I have to deliver the cabinets before proceeding.
I've always used the clear prefinished stuff for building cabinets, and 9 out of 10 times I've painted them, they had the same stuff inside.
Its kind of silly NOT to use it, unless its an open area, of course.
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Old 04-09-2019, 09:58 AM   #120
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I've always used the clear prefinished stuff for building cabinets, and 9 out of 10 times I've painted them, they had the same stuff inside.
Its kind of silly NOT to use it, unless its an open area, of course.
Thanks.

Any adhesion problems painting over the finish (for the exteriors)?
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