OK...I'm gonna get "uber-geeky" here...:smartass: !!
The Red, Magenta, & Yellow colorants are the most transparent. They're "manufactured" vs. "Earth-based".
* The Blacks, Browns, Whites/Ti02, Yellow-Oxide, & Red/Iron-Oxides are more "Earth-based.
* The Browns, etc., are very opaque...can't be seen through easily.
* Reds/Magentas/Bright Yellows are very transparent; AND a lot lighter too!
ALSO:
The darker you go in tint-bases, the LESS Ti02 they have...therefore a paints' "hiding" power is decreased markedly.
* The deep-tint bases, "Neutrals", are almost CLEAR!
* WHITE/Pastel bases have a lot of hiding power, since there's a lot of Ti02.
* Dark-bases have to have less white in them, so colors can be deep & vibrant. White just "dulls/mutes" deep colors.
Soooo, putting these 2 sections together...
When you tint a "Burgundy"...you're adding a LOT of fairly transparent colorant to a pretty clear base.
RESULT>>> CLEAR (well, almost!) Burgundy paint!!
NOW: Optics time!:blink:
* White reflects all wavelengths of light.
* Black absorbs all light.
* If a White wall receives Burgundy paint....You've got a pretty-transparent color-layer going on a VERY-REFLECTIVE background

!
* Guess what THAT means...coat after coat after coat....
HOW to stop that you say?!?!?
* DARKEN THE BACKGROUND color :yes: !
* Black would be waaaay to dark, soooo a Medium-gray works well to cut most the light reflection through a transparent color-layer (Burgundy paint).
* Gray is the most "optically neutral" background color...it doesn't alter a color much at all.
* Pink & soft-yellow primer-colors are still TOO WHITE under Reds & Yellows.
EVEN WITH GRAY underneath...You've still gotta do TWO FULL (and I can't emphasize FULL enough!!!) coats!!!
EXCEPTION:
Under real-bright "Citrus" tones...Lemon Yellow, Lime green, Bright Orange...I'd use about a 75%-strength-formula into a deep-tint primer.
Well, If you're still awake, I'll sign-off now!
Faron