Myself I don't like that Behr crap, I prefer primer and 2 finish coats.We looked at another house flipper and he uses Behr, has their rep measure and get the materials, the rep asked me what I thought of Behr with a big smile on his face and I replied it is complete garbage in my opinion.

 

It's probably not Primer #24, but it was available. Might even be zero voc.

 

Your kinda making me giddy. Thats all I choose to use on walls. Sonetimes I use it for primer too (gasp).

 

I'm watching and interested.

You have my attention.

 

My names not Pauhl, and I don't know about y'all, but I prefer a .5 gpm minimum when spraying drywall.

Today, it was the Graco 395 Ultra airless sprayer.

 

Ok, well, we got the pump all primed up, one of the keys to the big FAT FAKE struggle for equalizing porosity between mud and paper on drywall is nothing more than a basic understanding of spraying and backrolling.

Here's the spray:

 

Chris is missing out on the beginning of a masterpiece...... this will be legendary.

 

Ok, so, many of you have met Todd. He's a no shart guy. Anyone who has met him will tell you as much. Here he is, spraying again...395 Ultra, 515 tip, ProMar 200 primer.

 

When the "severe" failures that Troy (who is this nobody again, except Jack's fan boy?) referred to supposedly occur, it is probably due to operator error. When you spray, GD backroll. Period. Complexly Simple.'

So easy, yup, even a girl can do it, with a GD 18" roller.

 

Shall I continue? I can do this all GD night. No trick photos or vids, no time lapse happy horse crap, and I promise you, no wet photos.

 

At first I thought "GD' was short for "good".
I see it's for emphasis. :thumbsup:

 

I've avoided posting in the "Behr" thread. Now I will voice my opinion.
There is a lot about the Jack Pauhl posts that just don't pass the old "smell test".
First and foremost is the issue of adhesion problems with latex paint to GWB.
In all my years in this business, I've never heard of that being a problem. Even in this forum there are threads about using tape vs. cutting in freehand and there is never a mention of tape pulling paint from the drywall.
I've used some Behr paint and like anyone else here, I can make it work. My issue like so many others is dealing with the big box store and their personnel.
Not gonna do it if I can avoid it. :thumbsup:

 

Dry. Brian, the creator of the fictional Jack charactor suggested that I never back up what I say, and that there is no credibility in that.

Lol. I took 288 pics and shot vids. Tomorrow we will spray ceilings with another not so Big Box product.

Are we all good here? I got more...

 

Schucks, that last one was kinda blurry. Darn it iphone pics. But I am not pulling my window masking until I shoot ceilings tomorrow, and have half the house in wall paint (anyone doubt that I will show that?)

 

Well, I'll be jiggered, there's more...

 

Pretty cool to see the complete job sequence, look forward to seeing the rest!:thumbup:

 

No Chit...and more

 

It was not quite a full day for the 395 Ultra. She cleaned up nice and will be right back in ceiling paint first thing in the morning.

We are running Eminence, what used to be one of our favorites when it was labeled as Brilliance.

Its a SW product. Sorry Brian and that other dude.

Let me know if there is anything further I can do to document our project. Thank goodness we don't have to take 24 GD cracks at figuring out how to seal drywall. Who in the hell has time for that?

Meanwhile, please, stop wasting peoples time with nonsense.

 

Any questions?

 

So was that paint or primer? :whistling2::jester:

 

Any questions?

Yeah why you guys spraying with dust mask

 

Lol...we are ok with zero voc and N95's.

 

Yes. Is it true you buy a new 395 for every job?

:jester:

 

Completely untrue.

 

I have 1 burning question.

Did you wrap your 18" roller with tape before loading it to remove loose fibers? Or that 1st room must look like crap :jester:

 

What you see right there is an Arroworthy Microfiber 3/8" nap, bone ass stock.

Its interesting you bring that up...my colleague Brian recently tweeted at the roller manufacturers on twitter that 3/8" nap rollers were "useless" to pro painters.

Its all we use, and Arroworthy makes a dandy nap.

 

One last little bit of nonsense that needs clarification...

Just as primers have been subject to some misinformation lately, tapes have too. It has been suggested by some that there are no painter tapes on the market that "work".

Here is one that works like crazy. We purchased it for use in today's project featured in this thread.

 

I've used the Phoenix yellow tape on a "faux" project.It was awesome.

 

Scott, I am worried - what happened to all the love between you and Havanas?

 

Yes. Is it true you buy a new 395 for every job?

:jester:

He doesn't need to. Graco sends him a new one "on the house". Lucky ba$tard ;-)

Btw thanks for clearing up this whole primer thing! I was beginning to wonder about all those jobs I've primed over the last 20 years and why nobody was calling up complaining about flashing or adhesion or porosity. Just lucky I guess.

 

I'm sure we are going about this all wrong, but today we are going to sand all of the primed walls and ceilings to 150 to smooth them out but leave some "tooth" for adhesion (APC readers will find my "From the Field" column discusses some of the myths and realities of adhesion in this months issue).

Then, we will spray and backroll all ceilings. Same set up. 395 Ultra, 515 tip, Arroworthy microfiber 18" 3/8 nap. Eminence flat on ceilings.

We work the house from the top down. As soon as ceilings are sprayed, we double back, pull plastic, and start wall coats.

I will certainly let you guys know if I show up today and do not see equalization in the primer seal between mud joints and paper faces in the walls and ceilings. Or, maybe we will start applying paint and things will start flashing and popping all over the place?

Doubt it. Like Damon, I have been doing this for a few years and to be honest, drywall priming and painting is probably the easiest thing that we do.

Anyone else besides me and Damon seeing this as an over hyped issue, or are guys really having "severe failures" as Head Honcho keeps saying?

 

I will certainly let you guys know if I show up today and do not see equalization in the primer seal between mud joints and paper faces in the walls and ceilings. Or, maybe we will start applying paint and things will start flashing and popping all over the place?

Doubt it. Like Damon, I have been doing this for a few years and to be honest, drywall priming and painting is probably the easiest thing that we do.

Anyone else besides me and Damon seeing this as an over hyped issue, or are guys really having "severe failures" as Head Honcho keeps saying?

Well to be honest It's been a long long long time since I've primed new drywall on a job - typically I come across veneer plaster when there is new work to be done. But I've never heard about any issues or even suspected any issues, I remember we would use I believe superspec drywall primer, kind of a boring white backgroud on the label and perhaps green or some other color for the lettering. And then a couple of coats of of Regal paint - I don't remember any issues? But there's a lot of things I never come across like Brian displays - that one picture where there is I believe it's called hat-banding, where the cuts along the ceiling or whatever look dramatically different from the rolled areas - to be quite honest I haven't seen that ever happen since the 80s. I suspect it's Brian's 'systems' that make him adulterate his products to the point they do funny things - I just use the stuff straight out of the cans and never F' with it.

Heck - I did one job where I made a bunch of plaster repairs along these cracks in the wall and had my nephew prime them with a 3" roller - he even double-primed them. And this was Muralo's interior/exterior all-purpose primer with a shiny eggshell finish. And I cut and rolled one coat of Ben Moore's Classic Regal Matte finish. And it was so perfect I didn't even put a second coat on! How do you explain that if primer is useless? If I didn't prime - I know it would have flashed really bad and I would be putting a second coat of regal paint - saved me a lot of time in labor because of the spot priming. How would Havanas explain that?

 

No wonder my primer always fails... I thought you were supposed to prime after you painted... and then they told me they would just mix the primer into my can of paint so I didn't need to use primer anymore! DOH!