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An experienced painter can make a stress free killing on jobs like that
I tell ya I really enjoy work. I've worked for other people on res repaint, NC, and hotel/casino paint maintenance (where one really learns that the taping knife is a better friend than the sander). I started a modest company a little over a year ago, and have decided I will focus strictly on this type of work for awhile, rather than burning up my time trying to bid "we do everything" stuff. The new APC tells me this is a smart decision that fits my present situation. Maybe one day I will climb to the level of getting to put two coats of p&pn1 on bare drywall. I keed, I keed.
 
I tell ya I really enjoy work. I've worked for other people on res repaint, NC, and hotel/casino paint maintenance (where one really learns that the taping knife is a better friend than the sander). I started a modest company a little over a year ago, and have decided I will focus strictly on this type of work for awhile, rather than burning up my time trying to bid "we do everything" stuff. The new APC tells me this is a smart decision that fits my present situation. Maybe one day I will climb to the level of getting to put two coats of p&pn1 on bare drywall. I keed, I keed.
That's how I started out too,CTL.. but I'm thankful I gradually got out of that...for the most part anyhow.

Pretty stress free. Almost fun seeing how fast you can get at 'em. Careful though..too many apartment re-paints can make you just a little bit crazy.
Especially in a large complex, when all the layouts are exactly the same..and only the nail hole placement changes.
...at least that's what I've been told.

Probably tough not ending up a hack too.;)
 
That's how I started out too,CTL.. but I'm thankful I gradually got out of that...for the most part anyhow.

Pretty stress free. Almost fun seeing how fast you can get at 'em. Careful though..too many apartment re-paints can make you just a little bit crazy.
Especially in a large complex, when all the layouts are exactly the same..and only the nail hole placement changes.
...at least that's what I've been told.

Probably tough not ending up a hack too.;)
There is no reason to not do a good job every time. We sweep all the cobwebs, clean stuff up, remove plates and wash them, clean the overspray off of the vanities from the last painter, put trim paint on returns rather than brush/miniroll wall color on them, caulk cracks, fill holes, and still are able to move quickly and make good money. The hotel/casino work taught me something about clean speed.
 
I'm serving on a Norwegian vessel off the West Coast of Africa.

I turned the Boatswain Position over From a Norwegian Bosun to an Icelandic Bosun.

I had to go over the International Marine Paints
Schedule with him and translate everything from American English to English to Nords.

What an experience that was mils to microns is always fun.

But I have admit that Yotum Marine Primers are the very best on the market. That's what their use to.
 
The following can save painters thousands, easily, literally.

Promar 200 vs BEHR Premium Plus Flat Enamel

The following preliminary test is not about personal perception or personal acceptance of a drywall primer, rather a test to uncover which paint or primer/sealer products best equalize porosity over bare drywall to achieve solid uniform finishes. We all have different expectations about what product should be capable of. If a product says it "seals" then as a painter I "expect" it to seal and when it doesn't "seal", i'm not sure using the word "seals" is appropriate because surfaces are either sealed or they are not sealed.

Q:
Why is equalizing porosity between drywall mud and drywall important?

A:
When porosity between drywall mud(s) and board is not equalized, all of the following is affected. Sheen uniformity/holdout, film retention, achieving true depth of color, making and painting wall patches, sandability, touch-up ability, scrubability, durability, adhesion, amount of material used, and spread rate comparison between 1st coat and 2nd coat and more. All of these things are affected whether a paint or primer is used. It's no coincidence all of those things also affect man-hours, production, material usage and profits.

Lets look at why Promar 200 Zero Voc doesn't work.

1) it's not designed to equalize porosity
2) it's not tested to equalize porosity

I'm sure there is use for Promar 200 primer but I have not set out to figure out what it is at this time. But let's look at the more technical reasons it doesn't work. Had Scott actually tested 200 Primer vs BEHR, this thread wouldn't exist. A simple test would have exposed Promar's inability to seal which is what I initially pointed out in the BEHR thread, not sure why he decided to challenge it having not tried the comparison. I suspect that is why he decided to leave that portion out.

By the way, that fuzziness seen on Scott's pics, there is a trick to minimizing it. He had a bad case of the fuzzies and that means much more sanding and Promar 200 Primer is not a primer you want to sand very much because it breaks down exceptionally easy and will expose mud if not careful. Flashing of the finish paint will occur if mud is exposed.

Promar 200 Zero Voc Primer is flat and porous. A porous surface will absorb anything applied over it and sheen degradation will occur. When a primer absorbs a finish product it affects all of the things previous mentioned above. The reason BEHR Flat Enamel works exceptionally good is because the first coat "seals" and turns the entire surface into "one solid surface" and does not allow any notable loss in sheen when painting over it. Ultimately this is what you want no matter which sheen of paint is applied for "best" results.

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BEHR (below)

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Side by Side

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Then we took the test to the field

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BEHR still wet after 30 mins when all other dried within the first few minutes after rolling. (below)

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Quick initial observations

BEHR Premium Plus Flat Enamel has 38.2 VOL Solids, Promar 200 Primer has 26. Promar 200 is not mildew resistant, PPFE is. This is very important for new drywall especially in basements, kitchens and baths despite the presence of green board. PPFE dried 20 mins faster. The dry film is superior to Promar 200 which makes sense having more solids. PPFE has a faster recoat by up to 2 hours.

How we did the controlled test

We applied a heavy saturation coat over a sample piece of bare drywall to simulate a coating heavier and more uniform than can be achieved on a wall by spraying and backrolling to eliminate any application discrepancies. This method also allows for anyone to replicate the test easily by removing variables. The controlled portion of this test produces a 'best case' scenario and is not realistic to replicate on the job.

There is an 8 photo limit so I will make a 2nd post.
 
This photo was taken 30 mins after application. The far right stripe is BEHR and still shows a trace of wet. (below)

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Here is the load (millage) prior to final lay-off (below)

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This next photo is most telling. I could apply 4 coats of Promar 200 primer to the wall and it will not produce sealing properties of BEHR.

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Its not just Bher. The new paint is awesome.

I haven't really used Bher, but the other ones I've used are awesome. Regal select, Aura, Ultra, Super Paint,Emerald, would all perform similarity.

Primer is great... It primes, but I think we all can feel the difference in applying over a primers like 123 that almost has a sheen, and a drywall primer that feels like it sucks the paint out of your brush.
 
Part of the reason we like 6-2 primer. We had to paint a basement the builder primed with a PVA primer. Being unused to painting over very porous primers, my employee kind of blew that job (that and the worst lighting of any project we have ever worked on period and not enough outlets to run tools and halogens).
 
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