They make a two-part epoxy caulk that is very expensive and dries so fast that it's almost impossible to work with$23bucks a tube!!!...I would ask your local building supplier and see what he suggests...I tried everything for the same exact scenario last year and was dissappointed with all results of fillers i tried, botton line from far away it looks ok but up close it looks unfinished!!!!!!!!!!!
Thats what I though. I just went down to the local home center and they said any good caulk would be fine. I asked about the adhesive, he said yes it is paintable (although I do not know how shrink resistant it is), so that might be an option too. Read the painting bulletin on it though, it says 24 hours between coats and use vinyl safe paint.
The jury is still out on this one
Guys and gals are still trying to find the best method under paint
Lightweight latex spackle
...and of course the massively expensive Azek adhesive caulk
Each method has it's own drawbacks
...spackle must be coated right away (ir it falls out)
...putty must be sanded (a sticky slope w/azek)
...adhesive caulk excesses is best "chipped off" with a hammer and putty knife (labor intensive)
If you are not coating them....well then why the heck is Kellstar doing anything to them?!?!
But really, if your not coating them, I'd suggest the Bond'n'Fill/AzekAdhesive caulk and chip method
I can't say I've tried it, but anything else I've done wouldn't work for Azek left uncoated, so I'd suggest that
I brought in my trim guy to self-bid..the replacement of all rotted fascia
and trim on large house I've recently painted.....(I painted body first and then had him replace all trim) it looks great. Customer is super happy...just wants me to fill the holes and caulk it up nice...like he should, cuz we know how builders caulk..lol. ... So The holes will be filled smooth and then wiped clean for a uniform look. Just wondering what filler would be best... azek is a different product, non moister absorbent...so on and so forth...and will not be painted..if it was I'd have many choices for hole filling. But the holes will be just filled...so what does anyone suggest......is it only me who comes across azek allot now? It's becoming extremely popular and I figured some of you have worked with it..... I've already painted it on houses.
The Bond'n'Fill/AzekAdhesive is a royal PITA to work with and a total scam - If I'm painting it (which I have done quite a bit of) it gets bondo (white cream hardener) if screw size holes. Spackle/crackshot it gets if finish size holes. If no finish is going on it no matter what you fill it with it will still look like crap eventually. Unfinished azek seems to like algae/mildew at least down here near the water, and once it stains it is there. Also , PRAY they used stainless nails/screws. Think about that vinyl sticker idea especially if it is the smooth azek- i actually wasn't messing with you- sign guys do it all the time to hide screw holes.
Thanks guys..... Maybe some high end caulking....I'm not sure....but whatever it is, it will not be guaranteed or or get a warranty. He's pretty adamant about the holes (homeowner). Maybe I'll tell him that to fill the holes properly.... it will need paint...he'll love that..lol
i would use one of those bright white lightweight spackles cause azak is usually white and it will match and u can wipe the surface with a rag...i would usually use glazing for all nail holes but it is an off white and might smear the surface..if azak gets stained or mildewed u can just sand and buff it out since it is whiite all the way through
GUYS MAKE SURE WHEN YOU GUYS PAINT THE AZEK THAT ONCE THE COLOR IS PICK IT IS A LIGHT REFLECTIVE COLOR PAINT ASK YOUR LOCAL
I HAVE A COMPLAINT RIGHT NOW WITH A BUILDER AND MY PAINTER THAT THE PAINTER WAS TOLD TO PAINT IT AND NEVER HAD ANY SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS WITH IT SO HE PAINTED IT WITH SUPER PAINT AND NOW IT IS TWISTING UP AND ALL OUT OF SHAPE. ALL BECAUSE AS WE FIND OUT LATER IN THE BOX OF AZEK IS A LITTLE CARD THAT SAYS USE LIGHT REFLECTIVE PAINT !!!!! OR IT WILL WARP
Thats why the painting data sheet says use a "vinyl safe" (read: light reflective) paint. The new formulation of superpaint is vinyl safe however. The painting instructions say it has to have a LVR of at least 55 so you could check with your rep or store on that at least.
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