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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a job that I will be starting in 2 weeks in which I will be preparing and spraying a 4' high wrought iron fence in a semi-gloss or gloss white. The fence spans the whole front yard and side... I plan to sand all rust spots, clean, and spot prime all rust/problem areas with some cans of "Rust Destroyer." I will then prime the entire fence, and then topcoat.

What I have not decided on is what type of primer to use for the entire fence. I was planning to go with Zinsser Primer 1-2-3 to use as a bond coat, and rust inhibitor. I like that it drys fast, but I am wondering if there is a better product for this. I am looking for something that drys fast, can be topcoated within 2 hours, is rust inhibitive, and can be used as a bond coat for slick surface. Also, what are some of the best topcoat finish paints for a wrought iron fence? I have had good luck with Vista Paint's Protec Alkyd Emulsion, but would be willing to try something new and different on this project. I am located in Southern California, and can go to Sherwin-Williams, Frazee, Vista, and DE. Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Actually Zinsser Primer 123 does have some rust inhibitor in it. I have a can in my garage, and towards the bottom of the can there is a bright stripe that says it is Rust inhibitive in addition to being mold and mildew resistant. Thanks for your suggest though on the SW primer. Will look into it;
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks! I have used DE's products about three times now for interior repaints (Spartawall, suprema, AristoWall) and they have worked great. I think I will give DE a shot for metal work too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I did a job 6 years ago same scenario. We used an epoxy primer and top coat and still look like the day it was done. And the over spray on my 4runner is still there too. Lol.
Ha ha, yeah when I first started spray painting, I was working on the back of my house, and gave no thought to the overspray...thought I would be safe since I was just painting the back of the house that day, and my truck was in the front driveway. I thought wrong! Got some overspray on my front hood of truck and bumper - guess the paint got carried away over my roof with the breeze. Like your car, there is still some overspray on my truck today, but I now go above and beyond when masking and shielding. I had planned to use low low pressure, and have my assistant be on the other side when spraying with a big cardboard/drop cloth to "catch" most of the overspray. Also will have neighbors and owner move cars...Done it once, and worked great. I've done wrought iron by hand, and it is real pain, especially when it is a real ornate fence. So, I still have found spraying is well worth it even though there is a lot of masking, prep, and precautionary measures involved.
 

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You didn't mention having access to Benjamin Moore, but their latex or oil rust inhibitive "Metal and wood enamel" are great for this. They are self priming, at least in the low luster, and you have the choice of alkyd or latex with alkyd resins. Maybe in S-Cal you don't have the choice of alkyd, but the latex is very good too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You didn't mention having access to Benjamin Moore, but their latex or oil rust inhibitive "Metal and wood enamel" are great for this. They are self priming, at least in the low luster, and you have the choice of alkyd or latex with alkyd resins. Maybe in S-Cal you don't have the choice of alkyd, but the latex is very good too.
BM is not too common in this area, in fact haven't talked to a painting contractor in the area that uses it. Most Painting subs I've worked with with either go with Sherwin Williams or Dunn Edwards. BM store is really not really close me, and is out of the way...but I have heard that BM is one of the best paints out there, so perhaps one day I will try it out on a small project. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
robladd said:
If you can I would try to get PPG Ameron Amercoat 185 H for primer and PPG Ameron PSX 1001 for finish.

I part red iron oxide and 1 part polysiloxane.
Outstanding Coating System.
Thanks, not sure if I have a PPG paint store around here, but I will look into it. I know its some of the best stuff out there. Thanks again!
 

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I would rate these products by what is the best. Brand is not as important as system.
1) two coats epoxy, one coat two component acrylic poly
2) red oxide primer followed by two coat oil gloss, semi gloss
3) water base Dtm

I was very impressed with a sign paint called Chromate. This is an oil base. Their is also some good oil poly paints that work very well.
 

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Ok, since you are painting this fence white don't spot prime with Rust Destroyer. Get yourself Rustoleum "clean metal" oil base primer in WHITE from home depot for spot priming. I would spray Dunn Edwards Rust-bloc for a decent water base metal primer or another oil base primer would be the best bet before 1-2 coats of D.E Syn-Lustro oil base. Some guys cringe at Dunn-Edwards but it hasn't done me wrong yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
johnny949 said:
Ok, since you are painting this fence white don't spot prime with Rust Destroyer. Get yourself Rustoleum "clean metal" oil base primer in WHITE from home depot for spot priming. If you are priming the whole fence I would spray Dunn Edwards Rust-bloc before 1-2 coats of D.E Syn-Lustro.
Good point, thanks. Now that you say this, it does seem kind of counterintuitive to be spot priming with red primer when I will be finishing with a white topcoat base. I will try this out and let you know the results in a few weeks when I complete the project.
 

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I sanded rust spots. Primed with SW red rust inhibitive spray primer from rattle can. Painted with Sherwin Williams semigloss All Surface oil base enamel. Two years later was back to same house and the handrail peeled every where. I was an employee. I think it was a scam.
 
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