How new is it? Personally I'm not a huge fan of block filler. Its nice to sort of fill in the pores, but if its new I'd lean towards something else. The finish coats are fine, but I'd probably go with a masonry type sealer/primer. We're talking exterior of the building right?

 

It's brand new they are just finishing it. Exterior and interior. Tried to talk them into LOXON no go.

 

I've been using SW loxon for block primer and have been pleased with the results so far. If the brick or block is super porous I'll thin the first coat down a bit then shoot a 2nd coat.

 

It's brand new they are just finishing it. Exterior and interior. Tried to talk them into LOXON no go.

Sorry, missed this one before I posted. What's their issue with Loxon?

 

I agree, this should be the first coat. Can block fill after if they insist on using it.

 

Another HO that knows better.

God-bless them.

 

If its cinder lock, block filler is the way to go. I've used it for miles and miles of block walls , you work it into pores of block with block filling makes your finish coat look supreme . Homeowner is correct in his method. I block fill all cinder block. Use a blown out 621/627 if you got one but a blown out 517 will work just crank up pressure and it will blow it out in a 5 's time....

 

Sorry you back Roll it into pores. And it's cheap ,which saves you from using so much topcoat is purpose of it. Loxon is for concrete tilt up type walls .

 

Block fillers are generally cheap and contain hydrophillic pigments that will eventually absorb moisture, especially close to ground level, expand and blow off the wall espially exterior. Also if new block, make sure your primer is tolerant of pH. Just a suggestion that using block filler outside may cause issues down the road. Might be a better choice to consider the Loxon. Another choice is the Ben Moore Hi-Build Masonry Primer. Just completed interior Tilt up at an EMS, 18,000 sq ft and a 250,000 sq ft Whole Foods/PetCo etc EFAS and the high build really made our top coat go a lot further.

 

I use BM 206 block filler on every new cinder blocks then apply a finish coat. I find the block filler evens out the block and prevent it from absorbing too paint

 

If its cinder lock, block filler is the way to go. I've used it for miles and miles of block walls , you work it into pores of block with block filling makes your finish coat look supreme . Homeowner is correct in his method. I block fill all cinder block. Use a blown out 621/627 if you got one but a blown out 517 will work just crank up pressure and it will blow it out in a 5 's time....

Yeh right, of course you block fill bare block. The stuff from SW I found to be pretty light now and Yeh a blowed out 519 or so works just fine. The thicker block filler we used to use a 635 and it still come out in fingers. If you ever used it the Blockfill/finish actually works pretty well. It still fills the block but you get the finish started right away and the stuff is at least as beefy as the newer block fillers. It's a really decent product that I was skeptic able about before I used it and it proved me wrong.

 

Thank you all for your responses. Yes it is new cinder block. They also have a facility in Kentucky, they used the block filler there and were very happy with the results. I think this is the reason they want to use it here. Not really any thing against LOXON. This is a research facility for horses, they have a swimming pool for horses, and a treadmill that will bring the horses up to full racetrack speed. Pretty cool.

 

Depending on the weight of the block fill I take out the filters on the pump and the gun.There are acceptence levels of pin holes per s.f. of block so make sure the h.o. is ok with a certain level of pin holes. No pin holes= no water from wind driven rain. I'm bidding a job next week for block fill on split face block and it is going to take a lot. Loxon on first then fill would be great.

 

I only use it when speced by intelligent architects.

but any way who cares! just apply what the homeowner wants and collect the money,

 

We take all filters out for blockfill, use a 531 tip put on heavy & roll as you go:thumbup:

 

Block fill is for interiors, above grade. NACE mentioned this.

There are two roads to choose on this one.

Just do what they want and see what happens.

Do it the right way and CYA.

 

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/painting-contractors/products/catalog/preprite-block-filler/

This is the stuff we've been using lately. If we use it on exteriors I use the earth as a shield to keep overspray from getting below the grade.

 

Intelligent architects? Can those two words be used in the same sentence let alone next to each other?

 

This is what they are using http://protective.sherwin-williams.com/detail.jsp?A=sku-26004:product-6790

 

I wouldn't have a problem applying that product, which clearly is for exterior applications.

what I have found is the cheaper block fillers are the interior use only.

get the job, geter done, get paid

 

I wouldn't have a problem applying that product, which clearly is for exterior applications.

what I have found is the cheaper block fillers are the interior use only.

get the job, geter done, get paid

Word

 

Anybody have an ballpark cost per sf to apply interior block filler in the northeast?

 

This is as close as you can get. Punch in your zipcode, and it can give you ballpark price ranges on anything you want in your area. Homewyse Calculator: Cost to Paint Brick

 

Too many factors to consider....

It's a lot cheaper (and easier on my arms) to spray it on and backroll, but not all sites allow that.

 

Cinder Block is a generic term, but it is likely they are just "concrete blocks" if it is new construction - no coal cinder mixed with the concrete.

 

Do you guys see much of the "lightweight" block? It's twice as hard to fill as the regular block.