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Discussion Starter #1
Some folks had some new cupboards sprayed with BM Advance pearl in a darker colour 2 months ago. They went to put handles on today and made a few pencil marks which they thought would wash off easily but the color came off too. What is up with this stuff? Should we just be using Aura or some other high end paint and stay away from these waterborne alkyd's?
 

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Some folks had some new cupboards sprayed with BM Advance pearl in a darker colour 2 months ago. They went to put handles on today and made a few pencil marks which they thought would wash off easily but the color came off too. What is up with this stuff? Should we just be using Aura or some other high end paint and stay away from these waterborne alkyd's?
Dark colors in advance very important to respect recoat times, humidity and temperature while applying thin coats. dark colors in scuffx,command,cabinetcoat seem to harden up much faster than advance
 

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Advance is awful for this. It's still a problem with other paints, as well, but I've never seen it as bad as Advance.
 

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Advance is awful for this. It's still a problem with other paints, as well, but I've never seen it as bad as Advance.
Emerald urethane is the same if not worse than advance in dark colors. I had a can tinted black that was soft for well over a month before I gave it away. C2 poly whey same thing, very soft for well over 2 months and seemed to off gas a weird chemical odor the entire time.
 

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It's likely the film formation was retarded due to the following:
1. Applied too thick
2. Overthinning
3. Poor ventilation
4. Temperatures not within recommended range during application
5. Bad batch
6. Spoiled product due to expired shelf life or extreme transport and storage temperatures
7. Subsequent coats applied before recommended cure time
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So with all the problems and strict conditions involved why doesn't BM just ditch this product? These are new cupboards and these people are not happy. Do they have to recoat and wait another few weeks for that to cure? What is the solution?
 

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Emerald urethane has a very soft finish. I did a test [email protected] SW, painted a board in factory white, let it cure for a month, I placed a book on the board, and the book pulled either the paint or the cover. I sent the formula to 3m for a super adhesive, but it was turned down. LOL. As far as Aura, all I can say is when you try to match an alkyd, & the paint surface dries, is very soft and takes a several days for a full cure. This is an age old problem with cross linked latex-alkyds. Breakthrough has new urethane technology. We have a painted piece of tin foil to demonstrate the flexibility and adhesion strength. Go with the V50 or V 70 series full cure in a day. To touch, half an hour. Or water Based lacquers are also strong and hard enough to pass the book test. Damm spellcheck.

While @ SW, 10 years ago we had a variety of products for a kitchen repaint specialist Called "California Products" out of Boston. The applicator used an automotive clear coat for his countertop hardness. Like my butcher says, can't make chicken salad out of chicken plop to be polite.
 

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So with all the problems and strict conditions involved why doesn't BM just ditch this product? These are new cupboards and these people are not happy. Do they have to recoat and wait another few weeks for that to cure? What is the solution?
It takes lots of different trim paints to meet different contractors needs and there's many that swear by Advance. FF tips/thin coats with some air movement are critical. If not for you try the Command product.
 

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Surpised they went with Advance on brand new cabinets. I agree it's not the best in dark colours (except the stock black is fantastic), but a great product in the lighter colours. Especially for repaints.. My solution would be to spray a coat of water-based clear on them. I clearcoat the darker colours with Saman waterbased Polyurethane. Airless 308 fflp or HVLP 1.4 tip.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
how does latex poly stick to what is essentially an alkyd paint? I had a problem with latex paint bonding to Advance before.
 

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how does latex poly stick to what is essentially an alkyd paint? I had a problem with latex paint bonding to Advance before.
I have mixed feeling about Advance curing as an oil paint. It will wipe off with DA. A light sand with some 800 grit and giver. Those waterbased poly's bond really well in my experience. You could also use an oil I suppose .I've done it tons with successful outcomes. Although if the paint layers didn't actually cure, then that could be problematic to the topcoats.
 

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