Professional Painting Contractors Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,124 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Humidity?
Nope dry as a bone the last couple weeks. Any folks from the coast would just shrivel up like a sponge here!

It's still soft like the hardener is no good. I would suspect a bad batch other than this is the third can from a different store from a job I did a month ago same thing. Basically I need a new piece of 60 grit for each side of a window to smooth it out. Gonna be here all day at this point
 

·
Monarchski
Joined
·
298 Posts
What's up with Bondo lately not sanding and gumming up paper? Dry 70-80 degree and plenty of hardener, cured for 72 hours. Switch to evercoat? Something else? View attachment 114292 View attachment 114293
My local paint store told me they've had a hard time getting any of the Bondo products in and not sure when they will due to shortages. Maybe they cranked out a batch trying a substitute raw material? o_O
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,124 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
What are you using it on mostly?
last month new construction the carpenters in a $2M condo installed the ceiling crown molding but some places 1/4-3/8"gap. so we scribe a line and make it flush with the ceiling. yesterday basically a spot fixing imperfections in windows. everyone locally I talked to told me same thing bondo is basically worthless last couple years. time for a replacement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
647 Posts
I used it on a car in 2020 and 2021 and I didn't really have much experience with it, but imo it did take longer than expected to get hard. One thing I found really helpful is thinning it with acetone, it made it easier to work with/knife down, and maybe helped it cure faster, too. In the end I usually just accepted it sanded kinda mediocre and would do my final pass with glazing putty to fill in the sanding scratches. Thought it was just me, but maybe it wasn't. I really like the Bondo red glazing putty, though, it's awesome stuff.

I think for interior use perhaps instead of Bondo you could switch to Durham's Rock Hard Putty. Exterior it does fail, though, and it's very brittle and has almost no flex. Still, water mix to as thick or thin as you want and no fumes, I'd rather use it any day of the week over Bondo indoors. However, I do think it does flash without being primed, unlike say, Elmer's Wood Filler.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,124 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I used it on a car in 2020 and 2021 and I didn't really have much experience with it, but imo it did take longer than expected to get hard. One thing I found really helpful is thinning it with acetone, it made it easier to work with/knife down, and maybe helped it cure faster, too. In the end I usually just accepted it sanded kinda mediocre and would do my final pass with glazing putty to fill in the sanding scratches. Thought it was just me, but maybe it wasn't. I really like the Bondo red glazing putty, though, it's awesome stuff.

I think for interior use perhaps instead of Bondo you could switch to Durham's Rock Hard Putty. Exterior it does fail, though, and it's very brittle and has almost no flex. Still, water mix to as thick or thin as you want and no fumes, I'd rather use it any day of the week over Bondo indoors. However, I do think it does flash without being primed, unlike say, Elmer's Wood Filler.
another fella I talked to was skim coating some F'd up built ins the 'high end' carpenters installed. said his festool was basically burnishing the bondo and the oil FPE was just slipping off wherever bondo was applied. He was raving over some ICA 3k polyester filler that's supposed to be the best out there but I'm not about to start importing general purpose filler from Italy just to fix some lazy carpenters mess
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,497 Posts
Try “tack free” type body fillers.

Edit:

The surface gumminess often associated with non tack-free polyester fillers is due to loss of heat generated from the exothermic reaction which often results in the outer surface not curing fully.

Tack-free polyester fillers are paraffinated, and the paraffin behaves as an insulating blanket which traps heat, allowing for the surface to fully cure which otherwise wouldn’t with non-paraffinated fillers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
What's up with Bondo lately not sanding and gumming up paper? Dry 70-80 degree and plenty of hardener, cured for 72 hours. Switch to evercoat? Something else? View attachment 114292 View attachment 114293

Yup - sounds familiar. But I recently noticed, that Bondo cans come with different numbers in a small square just below the can lid, which are one through three, and seem to have some bearing on the build-ability of the product. Different stores seem to carry one and one only, so perhaps a little more research with the manufacturer?

I do prefer the Minwax product myself, and the white hardener makes for an easier spot prime, given that that the final color is not quite so dark as the one generated by the red bondo hardener.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Sure looks like a fustrating problem !!! It's been @25 years since I gave up on bondo..... There are some new technologies for fillers out there and minwax epoxy is readily available. I don't like the sagging property of minwax though!! I have gone to Advanced Repair Technology Flex-Tec HV( an elastomeric wood repair compound) It is a 2 part caulking tube. Best part is it doesn't sag !!! Great for fill work and arcetural restoration pieces.....a little pricey and you have to order but its bomber. Automotive supply stores have a varity of new fillers also. Coco give me a holler:)
 

·
Super Moderator
Licensed General Contractor, Painting Contractor, Christmas Light Installer
Joined
·
2,722 Posts
I've had good results with P-tec 8400, FamoWood, Timbermate, System 3 Sculpwood, Evercoat Z-grip, but not bondo. I know many painters who do use bondo and seem to get great results, but I'm not one of them. IMO, there's better options available, unless I'm doing body work on a car.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top