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Discussion Starter #1
Working with deep base colours on our current job. Mostly dark blues and dark greys. It looks great most of the time but when there is a certain light coming in you can see almost every roll and cut. We tried different techniques, different roller naps, using a whizz roller to cut in but a similar outcome everytime. You can see almost everywhere the roller has been. We are using regal ultimate as requested. My only other option i can think of is to try paint extender.
Spraying isn't practical but has anyone else had similar issues when working with deep base colours and if so how did they fix it?

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Discussion Starter #2
Working with deep base colours on our current job. Mostly dark blues and dark greys. It looks great most of the time but when there is a certain light coming in you can see almost every roll and cut. We tried different techniques, different roller naps, using a whizz roller to cut in but a similar outcome everytime. You can see almost everywhere the roller has been. We are using regal ultimate as requested. My only other option i can think of is to try paint extender.
Spraying isn't practical but has anyone else had similar issues when working with deep base colours and if so how did they fix it?

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* Also kept a wet edge and rolling seconds after the cut.

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We tried SW multipurpose primer but didn't make a difference.

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SW multipurpose and Gardz is kind of like apples and oranges. No comparison.

What sheen are you in? Because it's likely that you're seeing flashing rather than color variations. Any chance you can go to a flat or matte?

And unfortunately "tried different techniques, different roller naps, using a whizz roller to cut in but a similar outcome everytime " sound like you have multiple coats on. Any mils variations from past coats are likely to telegraph through (depending on sheen), so yet another coat won't fix it.
 

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I just went through this exact problem with SW Courtyard Green. It's a Hunter green color and it showed every roller mark, every brush mark. It was SuperPaint Satin. Upgraded to Duration. The problem was even worse!!! I said to hell with the SW deep colors and went to Lowe's and had them color match to Valspar Signature. Problem solved. Don't ask me why, but Valspar's deeper colors are way better than SW's. Had similar problems on a dark brown exterior last summer. Luckily the customer wasn't fussy.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just went through this exact problem with SW Courtyard Green. It's a Hunter green color and it showed every roller mark, every brush mark. It was SuperPaint Satin. Upgraded to Duration. The problem was even worse!!! I said to hell with the SW deep colors and went to Lowe's and had them color match to Valspar Signature. Problem solved. Don't ask me why, but Valspar's deeper colors are way better than SW's. Had similar problems on a dark brown exterior last summer. Luckily the customer wasn't fussy.
Thats interesting! Thought about upgrading to aura but doubt it will solve the issue. Lowes may be worth a punt!

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Thats interesting! Thought about upgrading to aura but doubt it will solve the issue. Lowes may be worth a punt!

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The only advice I can give you is to let your cuts completely dry with regal. Use a microfiber cover, prewet and really load the heck out of them. Dark colors need a bit longer recoat time as well especially if its been very humid. TBH ever since I switched to giving virtually every customer microfibers I stopped getting complains of lap lines, picture framing etc..
 

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I'm not going to say that the bold colors can't be tricky, but it would be nice to get some details on your rolling technique and some clarity on what is producing the effect. Mattes are only mostly flat. Are you looking at flashing? Or at shadowing from uneven mils? Or color variations? Give some details on the rolling. What size nap are you in? Do you roll vertically with a well-loaded nap, overlapping verticals, but then finishing with a zero-pressure layoff and always in the same direction (e.g. final layoff is either up or down)? And without getting back into stuff after it tacks up?

And to echo a couple of things from cocomonkeynuts, I'd also say to skip the one big wet cut/roll coat and instead cut and let it dry completely before the roll. And use a prewetted microfiber.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the pointers guys.

Yes mostly flashing from the rolling but also the cut line is visible where the roller has stopped, 1 inch short of the moldings or internal corners.
The paint is BM Regal Matte. I use this product a lot and its always a flat matte but with one of the colours (philipsburg blue) it has quite a sheen to it.

I typically roll on heavier with a 10 mil or 13 mil microfiber (also tried a 15 mil microfiber), then roll over without pressure without going back over a tacky surface. Even rolling 4x4 foot drywall panels it doesn't look solid - you can still see the cut and any over lap. I also tried rolling on with with a lighter filled roller and keeping overlapping to a minimum (not the way i was taught).

I did end up trying the extender but it didn't help unfortunately and the same result letting the cutting dry.
.
The property is a 'high end' house that was recently bought by my client from the builder. It looks like the ceilings were all sprayed without back rolling or priming (I'm also doing deep base paints on ceilings 😡) so I'm wondering if gardz would have helped me after researching the primer as @cocomonkeynuts mentioned.

Fixed most of it by spraying but still on happy enough to walk away from. Been tearing my hair out for the last couple of weeks on this one. 😂
 

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In this case, a picture is worth a million words. You might be experiencing texture differences as a result of rolling while tacky, (since you're trying to keep a wet edge), or maybe it's texture differences as a result of rolling with a different cover or nap on your whiz than your big roller. Could be flashing due to unsealed walls contributing to poor sheen holdout. Could be flashing due to lack of uniform mils from using 3 different modes of application. Could be technique related.

But if you're absolutely certain it's none of those things, then it's likely a phenomenon called metamerism. Problem is, nobody here can really help you without pics. As a painter, you gotta know that posting a problem and asking for a solution without providing sufficient background info & pics will likely yield little help.
 
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