I have a Kremlin rig with the excite gun, and they told me THEY were the best. Now I don't know who to believe.
Cabinet Airless Spray Approach - Acrylic
What’s up guys?
Been visiting this site for a while now for insight and tips, etc. Ton of knowledgeable folks, so thank you for that.
Straight to the point—I’m wondering what is everyone’s airless spray process for spraying cabinet face frames in the vertical/installed position. I just went through hell spraying virgin soft maple with California Ultra Aquaborne Ceramic in satin. I sprayed on a coat of SW wall and wood first and then the California and it was all just downhill from there.
210 FFLP tip. Without going too much into detail for the moment, I tried a different approach for every coat, each of which were one or two days apart, and I was never able to keep the paint from sagging. Like, almost immediately.
I sprayed the doors horizontal, one side at a time. They came out beautiful.
But yeah I’m completely stumped and it’s extremely frustrating for me when I can’t track down the cause of a problem.
If you want to know more about my approach, I’d be glad to answer questions but I’m sure I’ll get a ton of good advice by just hearing how some of you prep and shoot your cabinets.
Thanks guys.
Been visiting this site for a while now for insight and tips, etc. Ton of knowledgeable folks, so thank you for that.
Straight to the point—I’m wondering what is everyone’s airless spray process for spraying cabinet face frames in the vertical/installed position. I just went through hell spraying virgin soft maple with California Ultra Aquaborne Ceramic in satin. I sprayed on a coat of SW wall and wood first and then the California and it was all just downhill from there.
210 FFLP tip. Without going too much into detail for the moment, I tried a different approach for every coat, each of which were one or two days apart, and I was never able to keep the paint from sagging. Like, almost immediately.
I sprayed the doors horizontal, one side at a time. They came out beautiful.
But yeah I’m completely stumped and it’s extremely frustrating for me when I can’t track down the cause of a problem.
If you want to know more about my approach, I’d be glad to answer questions but I’m sure I’ll get a ton of good advice by just hearing how some of you prep and shoot your cabinets.
Thanks guys.
61 - 68 of 68 Posts
I might add that most wouldn't be spraying CV in people's houses either. And a 513 tip for cabinets?I think most people on here would agree with you on that. I think the obstacle there is just cost.
It's actually funny you say that. That's the first set up we got was the Kremlin AAA with the gold Excite gun for the same reason, everyone said it was the boss. I actually don't like it at all outside of the ergonomics of the gun. We went with the C.A. Tech Peak and that thing keeps trucking, and we beat the crap out of it to be honest. I have 9 of the AAA pumps and I love them.I have a Kremlin rig with the excite gun, and they told me THEY were the best. Now I don't know who to believe.
To be honest, we have just started playing with WB. I just got a AAA set up for it recently and running some tests the past few weeks. I'm shooting M.L. Campbell Aquafi WB universal primer. In the past, for smaller WB jobs I've had good results using the Finish Pro 9.5, size 3 tip and needle.Thanks for your input, Rory. Just out of interest, what do you spray most often when you go with waterborne, and what tip set-up do you use?
Lacquer is pretty self cleaning with flat tips, but I have been hesitant to use that approach with my go-to waterborne finishes. They dry fast like lacquer, but are more prone to clogging, and I could imagine serious delays or worse, with interruptions, mid application.
What's wrong with a 513? I used to use the 411 but it got jammed up way too much. Switched to the 513 and haven't had a problem since.I might add that most wouldn't be spraying CV in people's houses either. And a 513 tip for cabinets?
I guess it depends what product and surface you are painting, but most guys I know doing cabinets are using a 308. Feel free to fill out your profile and introduce yourself to the gang so we know what you're all about. Appreciate your contributions!What's wrong with a 513? I used to use the 411 but it got jammed up way too much. Switched to the 513 and haven't had a problem since.
513 is friggin massive for cabs. Only way I'd consider using it would be if I were spraying something like a master closet or pantry with huge open built-ins. Beyond that, there's too much paint getting on things that I don't want it on. I wouldn't reach for a tip starting with the number 5 for cabs though, ever. That's just me. Not saying my way is right and others are wrong at all. Many ways to get to the finish line.
I use 306 as well for topcoat and 308 for primer. Never get runs and use renner 765 and you will be just fine
61 - 68 of 68 Posts
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