[monarchski]

Most of the threads on the Inslx Cabinet Coat are pretty old so I thought I'd start a new one and seek some feedback on that product since it changed to Genex colorant.

With the outages/shortages we are all experiencing, I'm looking at different options for jobs. I usually ask other contractors what products they are using and having success with, and one brought up Cabinet Coat. He does more brush and roll and I know that product lays down really well but wasn't sure how it sprayed and what tips guys are using with it. Are you applying it directly over an alkyd without a primer? The Ben Moore Rep says you can but I'm a little iffy on it. How is it in dark colors? I've also used Scuffx before and love the feel of it but I'm priming first with that product although 2 different painters have told me they are applying it directly over an alkyd.

I've also used the Centurion 400 1K Acrylic Urethane and like that product but it pulls so hard when it's drying to adhere to the surface and it pulls hard on my caulking and separates and makes it look like the caulk is cracking out.

I would appreciate any feedback from people that have been using these products recently.

 

[fromthenorthwest]

I haven't used cabinet coat in the last 4-5 years so I can't speak to any changes that have been made. I actually sort of forgot about it since I started using scuff-x, but with the scuff-x hard to come by as of late I may actually try it out again. I would probably prime it lke I would scuff-x though.

With the Centurion did a second coat cover the cracks in the caulking or did it happen again? Partly just out of curiosity because I may try out Renner 1K for the first time on an upcoming job. With scuff-x sometimes the first top coat would hairline crack over the caulking but it was so small that the second would cover it. I've heard that the quick dry caulks are the best to use under the 1K and 2K products as far as not cracking.

 

[Woodco]

CC can go over clean, scuffed oil by itself.

 

[cocomonkeynuts]

Spraying CC over these sealed T&G 4 stage scaffolding 😵

 

[BrioPainters]

I have used a lot of CC. It was my go to cabinet/door paint before I decided the European 1k poly products (Milesi/Renner/etc) were worth the price increase for the extra durability/adhesion they provide. None the less, cabinet coat is (imho) a great WB product. Not sure why anyone worth their salt would brush and roll cabinet coat (or any cabinet topcoat for that matter, no offense to you cabinet brushers out there) but it sprays like a dream, lays well, hangs well, hides well, adheres well, and is durable AF, especially with a proper primer (Stix or UMA).
I’ve probably done 50 sets of cabs in the last 8 years with Stix/UMA and CC. Never had a warranty callback.
True story.

 

[fromthenorthwest]

Spraying CC over these sealed T&G 4 stage scaffolding 😵 View attachment 114135

That doesn't look too fun... Gonna break out a wand on that?

 

[fromthenorthwest]

I have used a lot of CC. It was my go to cabinet/door paint before I decided the European 1k poly products (Milesi/Renner/etc) were worth the price increase for the extra durability/adhesion they provide. None the less, cabinet coat is (imho) a great WB product. Not sure why anyone worth their salt would brush and roll cabinet coat (or any cabinet topcoat for that matter, no offense to you cabinet brushers out there) but it sprays like a dream, lays well, hangs well, hides well, adheres well, and is durable AF, especially with a proper primer (Stix or UMA).
I’ve probably done 50 sets of cabs in the last 8 years with Stix/UMA and CC. Never had a warranty callback.
True story.

Since you're coming from a standard water-based paint background (same as me), what have you found to be the best out of the 1k's? I tried gallon of the Renner 643 primer and was pretty impressed across the board with adhesion, vertical hang, and how tight it laid down. That's the only one I've tried so far.

 

[monarchski]

I haven't used cabinet coat in the last 4-5 years so I can't speak to any changes that have been made. I actually sort of forgot about it since I started using scuff-x, but with the scuff-x hard to come by as of late I may actually try it out again. I would probably prime it lke I would scuff-x though.

With the Centurion did a second coat cover the cracks in the caulking or did it happen again? Partly just out of curiosity because I may try out Renner 1K for the first time on an upcoming job. With scuff-x sometimes the first top coat would hairline crack over the caulking but it was so small that the second would cover it. I've heard that the quick dry caulks are the best to use under the 1K and 2K products as far as not cracking.

The Centurion has a really quick recoat time (35 minutes) so I would notice it more after doing the 2nd coat and the cracks would gradually get bigger. I always use a Lifetime caulk and it would be worse over those. The Fast Dry caulks seemed to work better under it. I was told they've changed the formula to help with that now.

 

[monarchski]

I have used a lot of CC. It was my go to cabinet/door paint before I decided the European 1k poly products (Milesi/Renner/etc) were worth the price increase for the extra durability/adhesion they provide. None the less, cabinet coat is (imho) a great WB product. Not sure why anyone worth their salt would brush and roll cabinet coat (or any cabinet topcoat for that matter, no offense to you cabinet brushers out there) but it sprays like a dream, lays well, hangs well, hides well, adheres well, and is durable AF, especially with a proper primer (Stix or UMA).
I’ve probably done 50 sets of cabs in the last 8 years with Stix/UMA and CC. Never had a warranty callback.
True story.

What tip are you using?

 

[cocomonkeynuts]

The Centurion has a really quick recoat time (35 minutes) so I would notice it more after doing the 2nd coat and the cracks would gradually get bigger. I always use a Lifetime caulk and it would be worse over those. The Fast Dry caulks seemed to work better under it. I was told they've changed the formula to help with that now.

Have you tried the 2800 series 1k/2k urethane?

 

[finishesbykevyn]

I would always prime for multiple reasons. If caulking under a Urethane, I would stear away from anything too flexibl and give a full 24hr. Dry time.. Are you caulking the doors??

 

[monarchski]

Have you tried the 2800 series 1k/2k urethane?

I have not yet. I still use a lot of alkyds when I can find it but have enjoyed getting to play/use some of these waterbornes.

Have you tried the new BM Multapply? It's supposedly reformulated Rust Scat that now uses Genex colorant. I have never used Rust Scat but had heard it adheres really well. Just don't know much about it as far as how it sprays, brushes and rolls.It also doesn't cone in a satin sheen which is popular here in my area.

 

[monarchski]

I would always prime for multiple reasons. If caulking under a Urethane, I would stear away from anything too flexibl and give a full 24hr. Dry time.. Are you caulking the doors??

I agree but even alkyd primers have been hard to come by recently so I've been looking at products that can be used without one. Stix was even hard to find for a while. What tip did you have more success with when spraying Cabinet Coat? Some of the other waterbornes I've sprayed seemed to work better with a Titan 410 FF or an 08 TriTech.

 

[Redux]

Not sure why anyone worth their salt would brush and roll cabinet coat (or any cabinet topcoat for that matter, no offense to you cabinet brushers out there)

One reason why is I find many of the higher end architects & interior designers often specify and prefer hand rubbed and/or brush applied finishes on cabinet & millwork packs rather than sprayed. It’s a matter of client preferences.

 

[finishesbykevyn]

I have used a lot of CC. It was my go to cabinet/door paint before I decided the European 1k poly products (Milesi/Renner/etc) were worth the price increase for the extra durability/adhesion they provide. None the less, cabinet coat is (imho) a great WB product. Not sure why anyone worth their salt would brush and roll cabinet coat (or any cabinet topcoat for that matter, no offense to you cabinet brushers out there) but it sprays like a dream, lays well, hangs well, hides well, adheres well, and is durable AF, especially with a proper primer (Stix or UMA).
I’ve probably done 50 sets of cabs in the last 8 years with Stix/UMA and CC. Never had a warranty callback.
True story.

We still brush and roll the boxes on Oak cabinets. Helps with grain filling and actually looks better than spraying. Still spray the doors and always spray the birch kitchens..

 

[finishesbykevyn]

I agree but even alkyd primers have been hard to come by recently so I've been looking at products that can be used without one. Stix was even hard to find for a while. What tip did you have more success with when spraying Cabinet Coat? Some of the other waterbornes I've sprayed seemed to work better with a Titan 410 FF or an 08 TriTech.

I generally use a 208,308 or 310 depending on products..I can't get CC anymore here so still use Advance. Besides the dry time, I don't find much of a difference In durability including dark tones..it's par for the course.

 

[monarchski]

I haven't used cabinet coat in the last 4-5 years so I can't speak to any changes that have been made. I actually sort of forgot about it since I started using scuff-x, but with the scuff-x hard to come by as of late I may actually try it out again. I would probably prime it lke I would scuff-x though.

With the Centurion did a second coat cover the cracks in the caulking or did it happen again? Partly just out of curiosity because I may try out Renner 1K for the first time on an upcoming job. With scuff-x sometimes the first top coat would hairline crack over the caulking but it was so small that the second would cover it. I've heard that the quick dry caulks are the best to use under the 1K and 2K products as far as not cracking.

Have you noticed anything different about Scuffx? I know they had some bad batches a while back but it doesn't feel like it used to. Doesn't have as much of that buttery/velvet feel to it lately.

 

[fromthenorthwest]

Have you noticed anything different about Scuffx? I know they had some bad batches a while back but it doesn't feel like it used to. Doesn't have as much of that buttery/velvet feel to it lately.

Hmm.. I haven't notice anything too different here. I haven't used it since about April but at least back then it still seemed to be somewhat similar to what I was used to. Having said that, with all the raw materials shortages I wouldn't be surprised if they may have had to do some substitutions in ingredients.

 

[BrioPainters]

Since you're coming from a standard water-based paint background (same as me), what have you found to be the best out of the 1k's? I tried gallon of the Renner 643 primer and was pretty impressed across the board with adhesion, vertical hang, and how tight it laid down. That's the only one I've tried so far.

sorry for the slow response. I’ve been busy painting all the finish carpentry in an occupied (big) house. Already running a bit behind so haven’t had much time to check PT.
In my area, the only outlet I know of for European 1/2 k poly is Milesi. Used it a smattering of times. Loved it. Haven’t tried Renner but the Milesi works like a good WB cabinet paint with better adhesion and durability. I’ve mostly done 1k poly because I’m a bit scared of the 2k hardener and how toxic it is.

 

[BrioPainters]

One reason why is I find many of the higher end architects & interior designers often specify and prefer hand rubbed and/or brush applied finishes on cabinet & millwork packs rather than sprayed. It’s a matter of client preferences.

Yeah, I’ve heard some clients prefer the brushed look. I’ve never had anyone ask for that on cabs myself. Guess I’m not high-end enough (yet). 😒