Cabinet Sides Prep

SteveB said:

What do you all do on the sides of the cabinets where they are sort of like a contact paper fake wood grain when you paint them? I have painted them successfully before, but this particular kitchen has a lot more than usual. The Carpenter was planning on covering them all with a Veneer but that is presenting him with its own issues. Do you all just dull that with 400 grit or something like that, then prime and paint? Thanks.

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fromthenorthwest said:

That should work but I'd test an inconspicuous area first.

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Packard said:

Typically, the vinyl over particle board is used on the cheapest cabinets, even if the doors and drawer fronts look nice.

Also typically, the exposed ends would accept a panel that matched the doors.

A while back, I refaced a kitchen (replaced the doors and drawer fronts and installed new end panels). The photo below shows the cabinet with the end panel in place, but prior to my installing the doors.

End panels are usually made from MDF, plywood, bead board-look panels, or panels made to look like the doors.

Adding new end panels would be the preferred way to treat this.

I used bead board-look wall panels for the reface. It was about $35.00 per sheet.

MDF in 1/4” thickness is subject to damage by handling and none of my local vendors will carry 4’ x 8’ sheets. Instead they sell 2’ x 4’ panels for $20.00 each, and there is lots of waste cutting from these small sheets.

1/4” plywood (maple or birch work best) costs $46.00/sheet.

Fitting the end panels is simple.

1. Cut to size.
2. Attach to side of cabinet with construction adhesive and a few brads around the perimeter.
3. Paint.

Note: The constriction adhesive will hold the panel by itself once it has dried. The nails are simply there to hold it in place until it does dry.

You can paint before air after installation.

This works best with face frame cabinets which include an offset to accommodate the panels.

It seems you have solved the problem with paint alone.

Below, a wall cabinet with the bead board end panel installed. The only on-site painting I had to do was to paint the exposed face frames. All the doors and drawer fronts and end panels were painted in my shop.

http://imgur.com/MP924PO

Click to expand...

Packard said:

Typically, the vinyl over particle board is used on the cheapest cabinets, even if the doors and drawer fronts look nice.

Also typically, the exposed ends would accept a panel that matched the doors.

A while back, I refaced a kitchen (replaced the doors and drawer fronts and installed new end panels). The photo below shows the cabinet with the end panel in place, but prior to my installing the doors.

End panels are usually made from MDF, plywood, bead board-look panels, or panels made to look like the doors.

Adding new end panels would be the preferred way to treat this.

I used bead board-look wall panels for the reface. It was about $35.00 per sheet.

MDF in 1/4” thickness is subject to damage by handling and none of my local vendors will carry 4’ x 8’ sheets. Instead they sell 2’ x 4’ panels for $20.00 each, and there is lots of waste cutting from these small sheets.

1/4” plywood (maple or birch work best) costs $46.00/sheet.

Fitting the end panels is simple.

1. Cut to size.
2. Attach to side of cabinet with construction adhesive and a few brads around the perimeter.
3. Paint.

Note: The constriction adhesive will hold the panel by itself once it has dried. The nails are simply there to hold it in place until it does dry.

You can paint before air after installation.

This works best with face frame cabinets which include an offset to accommodate the panels.

It seems you have solved the problem with paint alone.

Below, a wall cabinet with the bead board end panel installed. The only on-site painting I had to do was to paint the exposed face frames. All the doors and drawer fronts and end panels were painted in my shop.

http://imgur.com/MP924PO

Click to expand...