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I've had the 115 with Elite gun for about 18 years. While I rarely use them for anything other than spraying Tile Clad for tubs & sinks now, I'm still well versed on how they behave. I'm not sure you appreciate just how much fluctuation there is in viscosity given a particular paint temperature, and nowhere is it more important than spraying with turbines. For every degree above 70° F, it's approximately the equivalent of thinning 1%, so your generalization of "room temperature" could mean 60°-75°, which could muddy your stats by at least 5%, so it's a pretty big deal. If I'm keeping record of my thinning % and I can't be certain whether I really thinned 4% vs. 9%, then I haven't extracted any useful data. The length of your hose matters too. Longer hose cools the product more so less hot air is being used for atomizing air. If you have a 3' whip attached to your 15' hose, that has to be accounted for. I actually use 30' of hose to cool the product even more in order to prevent dry spray. Relative humidity also would be something which would need to be considered. Like I said, way too many variables to try and create a database for reference without taking all the major factors into consideration, which is why it's much more important to at least have a solid foundation to start from and tweak settings as needed vs. trying to rely on a database of past experiences which may or may not be applicable.
How the heck do you deal with any of that when working with some product with a 20-30minute pot life?

Even with non catalysted product I usually put back into the can so the % h20 I thinned with is irrelevant to the next batch.

IMO best to just get it in the ball park then adjust from the gun
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
You can take or leave all the advice given to you. I could care less. But it's like asking around for advice on a good summer tire to get you through a snow storm. Just buy a set of winter tires so you're prepared for every season. I've probably sprayed about 1000 gallons of Advance in the last few years, almost all with just an airless rig. Not only is 5 times faster than an hvlp, there is absolutely no thinning required. But hey, Best of luck to you.
1. Nobody asked you for advice. You’ve contributed nothing to this discussion.

2. Had you sprayed this kitchen with an airless rig, you’d have run out of material. I had less than 16 ounces left, and my HVLP transfer % is much higher than my airless rig’s. I’ve sprayed plenty of Advance with my 440 as well. They purchased the paint and no additional paint was available, so again, your opinion has no value.

3. I’m very impressed with the quantity of paint you’ve used. If you’ll send me your address, I’ll send you a certificate you can frame.

4. I have zero idea why people like you keep injecting themselves into this discussion. It’s like you can’t read. I don’t need general painting advice. I’ve been a general contractor for 39 years and have painted 100’s of jobs. I have 2 airless rigs and a handful of HVLP guns. This thread - ONCE AGAIN - was started by me for a very specific reason that I made clear in my OP. Any comments that don’t address the initial point add no value to the discussion.

Best of luck to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I've had the 115 with Elite gun for about 18 years. While I rarely use them for anything other than spraying Tile Clad for tubs & sinks now, I'm still well versed on how they behave. I'm not sure you appreciate just how much fluctuation there is in viscosity given a particular paint temperature, and nowhere is it more important than spraying with turbines. For every degree above 70° F, it's approximately the equivalent of thinning 1%, so your generalization of "room temperature" could mean 60°-75°, which could muddy your stats by at least 5%, so it's a pretty big deal. If I'm keeping record of my thinning % and I can't be certain whether I really thinned 4% vs. 9%, then I haven't extracted any useful data. The length of your hose matters too. Longer hose cools the product more so less hot air is being used for atomizing air. If you have a 3' whip attached to your 15' hose, that has to be accounted for. I actually use 30' of hose to cool the product even more in order to prevent dry spray. Relative humidity also would be something which would need to be considered. Like I said, way too many variables to try and create a database for reference without taking all the major factors into consideration, which is why it's much more important to at least have a solid foundation to start from and tweak settings as needed vs. trying to rely on a database of past experiences which may or may not be applicable.
This is the most useful reply in this thread. Of course adjustments will need to be made for a variety of factors, but specifically noting conditions creates a baseline. If you said, ‘This is my setup (hose length, etc). I just sprayed Emerald, thinned it 10% at 72 degrees to start, used an #x projector at 7 clicks of air and 9 clicks of material and got great results.’, that would be a baseline. Same for your epoxy. It would be very helpful to know your baseline if I decided to spray a tub or a sink.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Looks good from afar, sounds like HO is satisfied. We had our last kitchen sanded to 400 and sprayed tritech T5 with gemini 5 sheen dead flat including the drywall took 5 skim coats.
Thanks. They were happy and I’m returning tomorrow for more work, but it could’ve been better. Some of the doors were pretty beaten up. I used a combo of bondo and glaze to get them in decent shape, sanded to 320 and rolled. I was glad they chose satin instead of SG. I’ve got about 150’ of wainscoting to spray in a month, so I’m trying to decide what product to use. This one is up to me, so I’m up for recommendations. I think I’m going to spray shellac to prime (house is empty) as I’ve had good results with it in the past, but I’m open to other ideas.
 

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Thanks. They were happy and I’m returning tomorrow for more work, but it could’ve been better. Some of the doors were pretty beaten up. I used a combo of bondo and glaze to get them in decent shape, sanded to 320 and rolled. I was glad they chose satin instead of SG. I’ve got about 150’ of wainscoting to spray in a month, so I’m trying to decide what product to use. This one is up to me, so I’m up for recommendations. I think I’m going to spray shellac to prime (house is empty) as I’ve had good results with it in the past, but I’m open to other ideas.
Not sure what's available in your area but
Renner, Melisi, Centurion, enviorlak, etc all have really excellent waterbased undercoaters.
 

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1. Nobody asked you for advice. You’ve contributed nothing to this discussion.

2. Had you sprayed this kitchen with an airless rig, you’d have run out of material. I had less than 16 ounces left, and my HVLP transfer % is much higher than my airless rig’s. I’ve sprayed plenty of Advance with my 440 as well. They purchased the paint and no additional paint was available, so again, your opinion has no value.

3. I’m very impressed with the quantity of paint you’ve used. If you’ll send me your address, I’ll send you a certificate you can frame.

4. I have zero idea why people like you keep injecting themselves into this discussion. It’s like you can’t read. I don’t need general painting advice. I’ve been a general contractor for 39 years and have painted 100’s of jobs. I have 2 airless rigs and a handful of HVLP guns. This thread - ONCE AGAIN - was started by me for a very specific reason that I made clear in my OP. Any comments that don’t address the initial point add no value to the discussion.

Best of luck to you.
I'm shutting this thread down. You have absolutely no interest in excepting honest opinions and advice except the one that you WANT to hear. That's not how it works. Seek your advice elswhere.
 

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To be honest, I hadn’t read any of this thread until it got to this point.

To the author; When you ask a question it’s a given that some, possibly many, of the responses will not hit the mark your were aiming for. Best to just read, thank any that help, ignore any that don’t, and then move on rather than replying with increasingly snarky and frustrated responses - because members ARE trying to assist you even if you feel they aren’t. And possibly, even those replies you feel don’t address your issue, may very well have some helpful info in them if you are able to overcome your attitude and actually consider what is being said.

IMO, considering the tone of most of your replies, I think your statement about avoiding forums is a good personal choice for you.
 
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