TJ, your a riot :lol:
I told ya I would so here ya go.
Why I wouldn't use elasto in the 1st place?
In order for elasto to work without failures the elasto needs to be completely wrapped, with no openings exposed. Elasto caulking should be applied around window, doors, flashing, wood/eaves and any other openings. The structure needs to be fit as well. Which I don't think this structure is with one exception. If you look on the 1st pic you will see a decorative foam fascia/trim/pop out what ever you want to call it. I'm not sure if the east coast see's this type of trim. But it is very popular here in southern Calif. It is a faux stone foam trim, it can be installed around windows, fascia, columns, etc. Its a very porous material, its also a raw substrate like stucco it can be exposed. This making it a opening along where it is installed. This is where water can intrude. It is possible to seal this foam, but you would be covering the faux stone look. However I would have to inspect further for other potential moisture intrusions to be sure elasto would work. I would look for structure defects, how big the gaps in the cracks, why the cracks are appearing, where there appering, where water would settle, etc.
Cany you paint elasto over a non-elasto paint?
Yes, as long as the surface is preped right. Priming is highly recomended.
Can you paint over elasto with a non-elasto coating?
No, it's highly not recommended
The coatings are incompatibility between paints they have different degrees of elasticity and cohesion. It is possible to repaint over with a 100% acrylic with a few exceptions. The elasiticty needs to have expired, in other words when it has no more elasiticty, this usually takes 5 to 6 yrs, sometimes up to 10 yrs. You would need to do a dry prep like scuff and dust, no water, this could trap unseen water behind the elasto. You would need to prime with a primer with great adhesion (top of the line). Before doing any project like this you should always experiment 1st with the primer, preforming a scrub test.
In this case the tilt up wall. While elasto's can seal out moisture, it can also trap it in. The water is most likely trapped between the elasto and the prime/existing coating. This coating is most likely the full blown elatso with a low pem rating. This elasto will not allow any moisture to escape. As you see in the pics, creating bubbles. The elasto is actually doing its job. It's water-resistant and expanding. In this case the water is on the wrong side. The water is coming from the top traveling down the wall (trying to escape). Creating bubbles. Believe it or not once the water escapes the elasto will contract back and lay back down. As if it never happened. With a hybrid elasto acrylic coating such s SW Loxon. Water would be able to escape due to its high perm rating (breathability), but with the amount of water that is being traped on this builing. I believe that would fail too
It would not be recommended to apply a non-elasto coating over a elasto coating, because the elasticity has not expired. The non-elasto can not handle the expansion and contractions over the elasto. Elastos can have up to 400 elongation. Simply a elongation a non-elasto can't handle. It can result in cracking and a cohesion failure. The best cure would be to remove the elasto (sand blast) get it back to the raw substrate. But we all know that could be a expensive cure.
A non warranty cure
Cut out affected areas, prime, patch where needed, oil base prime to seal all pin holes, apply 100% acrylic paint. then watch it for the next 5 years. There will be other effected areas that will resurface on. The 1st year it can be as soon as a week, weekly to monthly to yearly to none at all. The key is to fix it as soon as it appears. On this building I would highly recommend to seal the faux stone foam. The cost would not be cheap, specially with the maintenece plan.
Ewing Painting Inc