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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need some back up, .. New construction residential (hardy board and hemlock accent) , should I pressure wash Uncaulked (for time management) or caulk first (Ext.trim-caseing-facia) then pressure wash. I am concerned about the water going into joints and probably causing a mess, Wait, I think I got it , ,:vs_coffee:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The client attimently requested pressure washing before painting because house has been in development for 1.5 years with a fair amount of dust on surface. Very good point of the painters caulk not being a weather barrier primary to the actual siding/flashing (very good point ," dammit Spok Im a painter! not a siding and flashing guy". And a great point that the siding guys may be responsable for closing those gaps with "quad ? ?. I will invest my time to inform client in a "client freindly way " of these fine points. ( some clients just want me to say " Yes , It will be done. !
 

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I agree that I have never seen a siding carpenter caulk their work. Remember the old adage about a carpenter and a caulk gun.
 

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If the GC installed the siding than I wouldn’t expect it to be caulked. Plus, most GC’s don’t have a clue how to caulk properly anyways.

If a professional siding installer did the job than I’d expect it to be caulked since it’s an important part of vapor/weather barriers.

If you’re caulking the job I’d highly recommend using Quad, SikaFlex or Trmco Dymonic.


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Also, with Hardy board, I would be overly concerned it it has dried. Theres really nothing to rot, and the moisture will find its way down eventually. I sure as hell wouldnt caulk wet wood, but back in Reno, we would sometimes start caulking the driest side the day we powerwash. Its a little different in the desert of course, but all in all, Im more concerned about the moisture content of the wood itself, than if a little bit gets behind the siding or trim. And its not like you're painting over wet surface, you're just caulking joints. If you cant visibly see water in the joint to be caulked, I'd caulk it. Obviously, its preferable to let it dry though, but sometimes that would be a waste of a half day.
 

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Have to ask... What is NC?
I was told by someone that Hardie Board overlaps and corner trim didn't have to be caulked, but, I really don't know?

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Have to ask... What is NC?
I was told by someone that Hardie Board overlaps and corner trim didn't have to be caulked, but, I really don't know?

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NC is new construction.


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Have to ask... What is NC?
I was told by someone that Hardie Board overlaps and corner trim didn't have to be caulked, but, I really don't know?

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You should go to the James Hardie website and there you will find what to caulk and what not to caulk based upon the type of siding with which you are dealing. Especially interesting is how to caulk above windows. Keep in mind that what not to caulk (butt joints, for example) is based upon the installation of flashing behind those joints. Also keep in mind that Hardie has changed their caulking requirements over the years, as they have tried to minimize maintenance issues regarding re-caulking.


https://www.jameshardie.com/
 

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Did you consider hand washing with scrub brushes and heavy duty sponges? Using krud kutter and clean hose rinsing. We wash many houses like this and yes it's more time consuming but I do think it gets betters results. Unless the dirt is completely caked on there


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Did you consider hand washing with scrub brushes and heavy duty sponges? Using krud kutter and clean hose rinsing. We wash many houses like this and yes it's more time consuming but I do think it gets betters results. Unless the dirt is completely caked on there


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Gong brushes they use to clean exteriors of boats. Depending on the surface you can use sanding sponges as well. They suck up a lot of bleachy water. Rinse well.


Just finished a big exterior I cleaned using both methods. Boards squeaked when you ran your fingers over them.
 
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