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Good Afternoon,
In the process of painting a 12' long bookcase/cabinet job I had to respray this center piece due to a couple of runs in the upper area. Prepped it all and was get ready to paint and I tripped and knocked it off the sawhorses. Now I have the crack you see, no other damage. . This was a glued and screwed joint. I wasn't sure how I was going to repair it but I knew I needed to sand it so I started there w/320 but in my frustration and haste I over heated the paint and went from bad to worse. Very disappointed in myself and now not certain the best way to repair so it doesn't crack on installation.
 

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Good Afternoon,
In the process of painting a 12' long bookcase/cabinet job I had to respray this center piece due to a couple of runs in the upper area. Prepped it all and was get ready to paint and I tripped and knocked it off the sawhorses. Now I have the crack you see, no other damage. . This was a glued and screwed joint. I wasn't sure how I was going to repair it but I knew I needed to sand it so I started there w/320 but in my frustration and haste I over heated the paint and went from bad to worse. Very disappointed in myself and now not certain the best way to repair so it doesn't crack on installation.
Icing Body Polyester Body Fill works well for smooth, shallow repairs. Sand and repaint.

edit: polyester remains somewhat flexible, unlike bondo. However, and “flexing” of the joint will crack almost any filler. Can you brace it during installation? Or, paint is after install?

Drink Material property Font Tints and shades Magenta
 

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Ouch. I would probably try to buff it out with some 150 grit. That Icing also looks like a good idea as long as it's compatible with the paint. Although I'd be afraid it would crack again on that join. Maybe caulking?
 

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Ouch.. Maybe you could install pocket screws behind the face frame and pull the rails in tight to the stiles. Once a glue joint breaks at an edge to end joint there’s really no way to repair it.

edit: reread your post not realizing it was already screwed….nix the pocket screw suggestion.
 

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If it were my problem, I'd force some "No More Nails" adhesive into the crack, promptly clean the surface with damp cloth. Once cured, 24 hrs., it would NEVER come apart! The wood would break almost anywhere except for the repaired area. Once cured, it would be near impossible to remove the surface residue. I have done a few repairs with this stuff and I don't know of anything stronger AND it is not flexible, like caulking. Also, make sure the area is well supported while the adhesive cures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So, I turned my back on it today. Not in the right frame of mind. I do know I can't flex the joint to open the crack so maybe the joint held but the spot putty and paint cracked? I did give the pocket screws a twist and they were tight.
I don't think the crack is large enough to allow me to work no more nails into it. I'm assuming it's a thick product?
Thinking about some thin CA glue into the joint. If it accepts alot I'll know the glue joint separated. If nothing flows into the joint I would think it's only paint cracked.
I know CA glue is brittle but....
Thoughts?

The thing that hacks me off is the runs were more like sags and were on the shelf side of the upper opening, above eye level. But did I leave it as is? Nooooooo
 

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I don't think the crack is large enough to allow me to work no more nails into it. I'm assuming it's a thick product?
No More Nails is no denser than caulking as it comes out of the tube. You get about 10 -15 minutes of working time with it.
 

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Glue will just crack again. imo. I hit all those types of joins/cracks with caulking. It's less likely to crack. At least then you wont have a black line showing..
 

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Glue will just crack again. imo. I hit all those types of joins/cracks with caulking. It's less likely to crack. At least then you wont have a black line showing..
No More Nails will never crack! I've tested it beyond what one might expect to be limits.
Something to keep in mind is this stuff should not be used where one will want to dismantle at some point in the future. It is not reversible.
 

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End to long grain glue joints cannot be reglued without cracking again unless they’re spread open, the old glue is removed, followed by regluing, and clamping. End to long grain glue joints are particularly problematic and prone to cracking due to the stile’s longitudinal wood movement being only a small fraction (~ 1/10 th) of rail’s tangential wood movement at the joint.
 

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End to long grain glue joints cannot be reglued without cracking again unless they’re spread open, the old glue is removed, followed by regluing, and clamping. End to long grain glue joints are particularly problematic and prone to cracking due to the stile’s longitudinal wood movement being only a small fraction (~ 1/10 th) of rail’s tangential wood movement at the joint.
Great answer.
 

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Ouch. I would probably try to buff it out with some 150 grit. That Icing also looks like a good idea as long as it's compatible with the paint. Although I'd be afraid it would crack again on that join. Maybe caulking?
I meant like this. or maybe not because screws already in there
 
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