Cutting Help Needed

9164 Views 34 Replies 17 Participants Last post by patriotpainter, Aug 10, 2008

JeffG

Discussion Starter · Jul 29, 2008

Hello friends,

I hope this is the right place for this post, if not, sorry, it's my first time here.

I have painted interior homes in the past and have had no issues cutting in before rolling. But as of late, I got back into painting as a part-time thing to help a family member who aquired some apartment buildings.

Here is the problem; I cut one room at a time using a $8.00 2" brush. After cutting and then proceeding to the rolling, once the room dries, you can clearly see a difference in the cut area and the rolled area. Meaning, the cut area is much lighter and then if I try and touch it up, it gets worse in the color difference.

We use a good quality Dutch Boy or Behr, and I get the same results. Ok, I know maybe we need to try a different brush, done that, 3 as a matter of fact, and the same with rollers, 3 different rollers, same results.

If you can offer some helpful techniques on cutting, i would be very grateful as we have 24 more units to prepare.

Thank you,

Jeff G

1 - 20 of 35 Posts

slickshift

· #2 · Jul 29, 2008

JeffG said:
...I cut one room at a time using a $8.00 2" brush.
...
We use a good quality Dutch Boy or Behr, and I get the same results.

#1
You cut and roll 1 wall at a time
This keeps a wet edge and allows the cut lines to blend into the roll

#2
An $8 brush is not a quality brush
A premium line Wooster, Purdy, or Corona, will help
They will list closer to $20

#3
I suspect your roller sleeves are also not up to snuff from the other information you have given us
Try some nice Purdy White Doves (which I know you can get) or some premium Wooster sleeves
These will list between $4 and $5

#4
DB and B are not quality paints
You can minimize the effects buy switching your technique and using quality tools, but you are still just putting lipstick on some pigs
They are still pigs
Using a higher quality paint will raise you material costs slightly, but will speed up production and increase quality dramatically

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AuntieJan

· #3 · Jul 29, 2008

I can't add much to Slick's post because I agree with everything he said. The only thing I would suggest is to cut with a bigger brush... I use a 2" only for trim. My hand is smaller so I use a 3" Purdy to cut walls and ceilings with but I've noticed a lot of guys cut with a 4".

And yes, please get a Purdy or a Wooster, you will be amazed at the difference. If you take proper care of them they last a very long time.:yes:

JeffG

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jul 29, 2008 (Edited)

Thank you all very much. I appreciate it. I will try your techniques and see what I can do.

Yes I do have a lot of work left to do, and to do it fast and good is better than doing it fast and over and over and did I say over?

Also, is it better to have an angled brush if I am painting the wall a different color than the ceiling? That is normally what I used and an edger.

Jeff G

tsunamicontract

· #5 · Jul 29, 2008

Jeff, try BM's aura paint. I think I can safely say it never pictureframes like you described.

AuntieJan

· #6 · Jul 29, 2008

JeffG said:
Also, is it better to have an angled brush if I am painting the wall a different color than the ceiling? That is normally what I used and an edger.

Jeff G

I think that's a matter of personal preference, I use a flat brush for most work. I keep a damp rag and my 5 way handy to wisk away any ceiling mistakes. Not that ARE any...:whistling2:

JeffG

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jul 29, 2008

Thanks everyone!!

I came to the right place for sure. You all have been very helpful.

Jeff G

greensboro84

· #8 · Jul 29, 2008

I actually find it easier to cut a straight line with a flatbrush. It's just whatever feels best to you.

MAK-Deco

· #9 · Jul 29, 2008

tsunamicontract said:
Jeff, try BM's aura paint. I think I can safely say it never pictureframes like you described.

I do not think its cost effective to use Aura on apartments :whistling2:

Pete's Painting

· #10 · Jul 29, 2008

Jeff,
Aura is a great paint, but you may find it a bit pricey. Afterall these are apartment buildings. Ben Moore's Regal line is a good quality paint, less expensive, and it washes well.

[email protected]

· #11 · Jul 29, 2008

MAK-Deco said:
I do not think its cost effective to use Aura on apartments :whistling2:

Agreed and I do see Tsun's point. A better quality paint would put you in a better position. Apartments... hmmmm Try ProMar 400 or any of the Contractor series at Sherwin Williams. Basically, most Paint only suppliers will give you better quality than Home Depot or Lowes can offer. Look for something in the $15-$20 per gal range. If you hit the right store and purchase enough paint over time, they will bring your price down.

I prefer the sash (angle) brush for cutting and a 2 1/2" is comfortable enough for my flavor. Been using Purdy for some time and it works well for me. But I am sure if you look around this site long enough you can find related topics as to what strokes different folks concerning brushes and rollers etc.....

bikerboy

· #12 · Jul 30, 2008

Maybe I missed it and it's already said, but you don't normally build as heavy a paint film with a brush as a roller. So cut in twice. We don't do a "wall at a time" either. (personal preference) Cut in the whole room twice, (especially on a color change) then roll it. You should be selling and charging for a two-coat paint job anyhow. That way you deliver the most consistant results.

chrisn

· #13 · Jul 30, 2008

We use a good quality Dutch Boy or Behr,

Neither one is "good quality", get some better paint.

CApainter

· #14 · Jul 30, 2008

You shouldn't have to cut and roll one wall at a time when using flat finish.

Don't stretch your cut in too far. Second coat it if need be.

JeffG

Discussion Starter · #15 · Jul 30, 2008

Thanks again everyone. And thank you Bikerboy, I am actually selling a two-coat job because well, most of these apartments have a heavy smoke build-up in them from years of smokers and according to the old property manager, they have not been repainted in 8 years or more.

I do have my work "cut" out for me, no pun intended, Lol.

I am going to try and get a better grade of paint and brush and rollers. Will let you all know how it goes. I am hoping to find myself with a much better paint job than the last one. A good coat of prime and a good coat of paint should do it.

Thank you all

Jeff G

xr4ticrew

· #16 · Jul 30, 2008

Another thing that should be mentioned is, make sure you are shaking or stirring your paint consistently, and if using multiple gallons, box them together before starting...

Could be that some tint is separating, and your cut paint is a slightly different color from your rolling paint.

Just to add to all the above suggestions, which are excellent.

stansoph

· #17 · Aug 1, 2008

You should also tint your primer to about half of the paint; easier to coverthe paint coat.

Pete's Painting

· #18 · Aug 2, 2008

JeffG said:
Thanks again everyone. And thank you Bikerboy, I am actually selling a two-coat job because well, most of these apartments have a heavy smoke build-up in them from years of smokers and according to the old property manager, they have not been repainted in 8 years or more.

I do have my work "cut" out for me, no pun intended, Lol.

I am going to try and get a better grade of paint and brush and rollers. Will let you all know how it goes. I am hoping to find myself with a much better paint job than the last one. A good coat of prime and a good coat of paint should do it.

Thank you all

Jeff G

Hey Jeff,

One more thing before you get too overwhelmed with information. You mentioned heavy smokers. Sometimes when the tobaccy stains get real thick, they will bleed through like a water stain. If you haven't been using an oil primer, keep an eye and switch. Kilz is not a good primer. I use Zinsser for stains and I think most people here prefer it also.

greensboro84

· #19 · Aug 2, 2008

I've seen many walls cut in, then rolled later on, well after the cut was dry and look fine, for apartments that is. Mostly in white, though, I can see how it would make a big difference if you were using a color though. And I second that, about the paint separating. Make sure you stir every once in a while, especially if it's hot or cold, anything other than room temperature. It won't look right if your only painting with some of the chemicals in the bucket and the rest is settling to the bottom. And use a good paint. We usually use Duron Pro Kote for walls and trim in apartments. Good paint, good price. Ultra Deluxe and Signature are even better, but a bit more expensive, but not Sherwin or Ben Moore expensive. We use Duron Weathershield for any exterior. They have some good oil based stuff to, all moderately priced in my opinion(but not according to my boss!). Just telling you all this because were pretty much in the same line of work, you want to do the best job you can. But you know it wont last and you know you'll be in there a year later repainting, so...apartments are great for learning, training and testing new systems, I think. Also, stay competitive, it's easy to cut your own throat when bidding on work from property managers.

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paint_booger

· #20 · Aug 3, 2008

SLICK, AWESOME POST!

Also try CHB from Sherwin ... it's a dead flat.

pb

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