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I am interested in trying out the some Dalys products, benite wood conditioner and Ship n shore sealer. Mostly for exterior front entries. I refinish old mahogany doors now and then in Sacramento here. I have heard these products are used before applying a high quality exterior varnish or poly. Who has used this and with one would you use for different reasons ?
 

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For mahogany I just use thinned down PTO under phenolic resin varnishes, and thinned down BLO under linseed-alkyd resin varnishes. The advantage of both the PTO & BLO is they form bonds within the wood’s cellular structure then crosslink with the varnish resins, and the varnish film becomes an extension of the wood from within and will rarely to never peel. You can also add a little of the varnish to the appropriate thinned down oil to create a hard oil or hard sealer. The oils or oil varnish mixes also inhibit outgassing bubbles at the pores as the wood warms up during the day when top coating with varnish.
 

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Benite is mostly PTO from what I understand, mainly we use it as a prestain conditioner on alder or underneath exterior smooth woods to be finished with paint or stained and varnished. For example new construction window that is to be painted but can't get to it right away and need to leave for the winter I feel pretty confident you can apply benite and leave it for a few months then prime and paint later and the wood won't have rotted away. Likewise as Prestain conditioner there is no window of time where you need to stain, you can stain 12 hours later or a month later it's fine and the wood has less chance to warp in that time.
sand 150 grit, apply liberally and wipe excess. When ready to stain buff with fine sanding sponge. Then stain. You can also mix oil stains into benite to use as a toner. We use benite as a wash medium to mix with paint as well.

shipnshore is somewhat interchangeable with benite, it has PTO, phenolic and urethane resins. Higher solids content better on rough exterior woods, or wood in direct contact with moisture. Also works well on steel as a rust prevention sealer/primer or on masonry surfaces. You can use it underneath both water based or oil paints and stains. Can use shipnshore over existing stains that are weather worn and likewise stains can be added to use as a toner (eg old decks that need a refresher coat with minimal prep basically just broomed off). Works very good and easy to maintain on hardwoods like teak and ipe decking.
Shipnshore is also good on reclaimed lumber or other wood to use a clear penetrating sealer that leaves a 'natural' look and allows wood to age without applying an sealer containing silicone. Customer can change their mind and use semitransparent, solid stain or basically any paint without issues at a later date. For example a good use for SnS is old barn to painted with acrylic solid stain but you want to first apply a penetrating clear sealer that will harden the wood cell structure SnS works as a clear primer/preservative. Have also used on water damaged crumbling concrete floor it hardens up somewhat then paint.
SnS will adhere to glass and steel surfaces strongly so if you unintentionally get SnS on an unintended surface be sure to clean it off. It's hard to scrape off glass (ask me how I know). As I mentioned you can also apply it to steel. For example I beams holding up exterior upper decks clean off surface rust, prime with shipnshore and paint with whatever trim paint is being used eg moorglo or just leave by it's self and reapply every now and then. It won't peel on steel surfaces so you just need to clean with scotch Brite before reapplication.

Recently we did a two tone on exterior cedar first with a white wash compromised of 4-1 benite/ tinted 094 primer. Then topcoat with semisolid oil cut with shipnshore. We used benite and primer as we wanted something with lower solids and wouldn't completely seal the surface like shipnshore and paint would have.
 

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Benite is mostly PTO from what I understand, mainly we use it as a prestain conditioner on alder or underneath exterior smooth woods to be finished with paint or stained and varnished. For example new construction window that is to be painted but can't get to it right away and need to leave for the winter I feel pretty confident you can apply benite and leave it for a few months then prime and paint later and the wood won't have rotted away. Likewise as Prestain conditioner there is no window of time where you need to stain, you can stain 12 hours later or a month later it's fine and the wood has less chance to warp in that time.
sand 150 grit, apply liberally and wipe excess. When ready to stain buff with fine sanding sponge. Then stain. You can also mix oil stains into benite to use as a toner. We use benite as a wash medium to mix with paint as well.

shipnshore is somewhat interchangeable with benite, it has PTO, phenolic and urethane resins. Higher solids content better on rough exterior woods, or wood in direct contact with moisture. Also works well on steel as a rust prevention sealer/primer or on masonry surfaces. You can use it underneath both water based or oil paints and stains. Can use shipnshore over existing stains that are weather worn and likewise stains can be added to use as a toner (eg old decks that need a refresher coat with minimal prep basically just broomed off). Works very good and easy to maintain on hardwoods like teak and ipe decking.
Shipnshore is also good on reclaimed lumber or other wood to use a clear penetrating sealer that leaves a 'natural' look and allows wood to age without applying an sealer containing silicone. Customer can change their mind and use semitransparent, solid stain or basically any paint without issues at a later date. For example a good use for SnS is old barn to painted with acrylic solid stain but you want to first apply a penetrating clear sealer that will harden the wood cell structure SnS works as a clear primer/preservative. Have also used on water damaged crumbling concrete floor it hardens up somewhat then paint.
SnS will adhere to glass and steel surfaces strongly so if you unintentionally get SnS on an unintended surface be sure to clean it off. It's hard to scrape off glass (ask me how I know). As I mentioned you can also apply it to steel. For example I beams holding up exterior upper decks clean off surface rust, prime with shipnshore and paint with whatever trim paint is being used eg moorglo or just leave by it's self and reapply every now and then. It won't peel on steel surfaces so you just need to clean with scotch Brite before reapplication.

Recently we did a two tone on exterior cedar first with a white wash compromised of 4-1 benite/ tinted 094 primer. Then topcoat with semisolid oil cut with shipnshore. We used benite and primer as we wanted something with lower solids and wouldn't completely seal the surface like shipnshore and paint would have.
Benite is essentially thinned down linseed oil with a non yellowing polymerized dehydrated castor oil. It behaves very similarly to the polymerized tung oil I mentioned, particularly with the fast curing due to being polymerized. It also works better than BLO under varnish due to the quicker cure and denser crosslinking.
 

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My SOP for varnishing exterior mahogany included 2 coats of an exterior polymerized tung oil sealer (similar in concept to Benite but nearly double the oil content), then a thinned out tung oil-phenolic resin varnish cut with exterior PTO sealer (similar in concept to Ship’N’Shore but a higher solids content), followed by a “minimum” of 3 coats of straight up or slightly reduced varnish. IMO 3 applications of varnish over 3 coats of a drying oil and/or hard oil sealer is the bare bones minimum.

Maintenance schedules to maintain film thickness to compensate for UV film degradation provided for a bi-annual maintenance coat on full sun exposures, an annual maintenance coat on partial sun exposures, and a maintenance coat at two year intervals or as needed on north or shaded areas not receiving full or partial sun.

Having varnished well over 1000 exterior mahogany door and window units, I’ve not once had varnish peel, blister, craze, or crack within 14 years after completion by adhering to above mentioned SOP and maintenance schedule, which is largely due to pretreatment with drying oils and/or hard oil sealers similar in concept & composition to Benite and Ship’N’Shore, combined with periodic preventive maintenance which is key to insure longevity.
 

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For mahogany I just use thinned down PTO under phenolic resin varnishes, and thinned down BLO under linseed-alkyd resin varnishes. The advantage of both the PTO & BLO is they form bonds within the wood’s cellular structure then crosslink with the varnish resins, and the varnish film becomes an extension of the wood from within and will rarely to never peel. You can also add a little of the varnish to the appropriate thinned down oil to create a hard oil or hard sealer. The oils or oil varnish mixes also inhibit outgassing bubbles at the pores as the wood warms up during the day when top coating with varnish.
Hi Redux,
Please forgive me, but I'm trying to crack the code here, lol, and I Googled few times the "thinned down PTO" and "thinned down PTO under phenolic resin varnishes",
also,"thinned down BLO under linseed-alkyd resin varnishes", but I can not find the answer, it always takes me to the automotive section or some other unrelated explanations.

Here is one of the weird results.
Are you kidding me, lol


What is the PTO and BLO.
I'm emotionally ready to be massively embarrassed by the answer and the obviousness of it, lol

Thank you.
 

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Hi Redux,
Please forgive me, but I'm trying to crack the code here, lol, and I Googled few times the "thinned down PTO" and "thinned down PTO under phenolic resin varnishes",
also,"thinned down BLO under linseed-alkyd resin varnishes", but I can not find the answer, it always takes me to the automotive section or some other unrelated explanations.

Here is one of the weird results.
Are you kidding me, lol


What is the PTO and BLO.
I'm emotionally ready to be massively embarrassed by the answer and the obviousness of it, lol

Thank you.
PTO-Polymerized Tung Oil , BLO- Boiled Linsead Oil.
 

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Hi Redux,
Please forgive me, but I'm trying to crack the code here, lol, and I Googled few times the "thinned down PTO" and "thinned down PTO under phenolic resin varnishes",
also,"thinned down BLO under linseed-alkyd resin varnishes", but I can not find the answer, it always takes me to the automotive section or some other unrelated explanations.

Here is one of the weird results.
Are you kidding me, lol


What is the PTO and BLO.
I'm emotionally ready to be massively embarrassed by the answer and the obviousness of it, lol

Thank you.
Both legitimate questions. No reason at all to be embarrassed. No question is a stupid question, (unless you ask a stupid question of course), which you didn't.
 
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