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I used Breakthrough! 250 for a few years for my custom cabinet business. The local PPG dealer could not survive the Covid 19 pandemic business loss and closed. So I switched to Benjamin Moore's Advance. It sprays out nice and I particularly like the satin finish. But it does not seem to cure as hard as the Breakthrough! Is it my imagination? Or should I drive the extra 30 miles to get the Breakthrough!?

I would note that the other dealer of Breakthrough! has a four gallon minimum and sometimes that is more than I want to buy. The PPG dealer will sell me exactly the amount I need. Also there is a 2 week wait to get Breakthough 250. Breakthrough 50 is available from stock, but is not recommended for cabinet work.
Have your BM dealer get you some corotech command
 

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Will it level like the Advance? Is there any issue spraying with HVLP equipment? I am not a painter by trade. I am a custom cabinet maker who supplies painted cabinets to customers. (Though some will paint them on-site after installation).

For that reason I like to learn how to use one type of finish and stick with it. I only changed from Breakthrough! because the vendor went out of business. I like the appearance of Advance satin better than Breakthrough!, but it does seem softer than Breakthrough!.

I will check with my B-M dealer (which is a very large hardware store with several branches and not a paint-specific vendor) and see if they can get the Corotech Command. Some of the satellite stores are paint specific but still, not as knowledgeable as the PPG dealer used to be.

Thanks for the information.
Its not available everywhere yet due to VOC laws. No issue spraying HVLP, its ready to spray out of the can depending on your equipment. It levels nicely and hardens up light years faster than advance. Also I prefer cabinetcoat over advance. If I want to use a slow drying product like advance I would just use the real thing ie impervo and not a water based imitation.
 

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Yes the advance is a very slow drying and curing product. I have not tried the Command yet, but my understanding is that supposed to be very similar to Breakthrough 250. My local dealer recently got some in and I'm excited to try it out. If Coco recommends it that's alwsys a good sign..
Just used 20 gallons for exterior doors on a motel in ruby red. Its not a fussy product like breakthrough either, it sprays easy from hvlp or airless
 

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I've sprayed a few things with the new "Command", but found it very fussy. Got a lot of fish eyes. It doesn't seem to play well with BIN. Better over the Stix. I was was all excited about the Stock black, but when I rolled a test sample it dried with a very course texture/chunkies or something. Super weird. Which is too bad, because I was really looking forward to it. And for the OP, spraying with lacquers is a whole different ball game. Assuming your talking traditional lacquer. Either way, it would be spray application only. So keep that in mind. Also will have a maximum film thickness. I still use Advance because it's just so damn easy to use and basically all I can get around here...Hopefully Command works out all the little bugs.
Ive only used bronzetone and a deep base red, didn't experience any fisheye. I dont use BIN for hardly anything in fact I don't even carry it in my store.
 

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I read the press release from B-M. It says it can be rolled, brushed, or sprayed; it had tenacious (their word) adhesion and no primer is required; it goes over metal, wood, concrete and resin (platic); it is indoor and outdoor approved and can be used for flooring paint and it can be applied in temperatures to 30 degrees Farhenheit. In other words, it can do everything everywhere under every condition (maybe it can take care of my plumbing problems too.).

I'm always a bit leery of any product that makes overly broad claims (sounds like a snake oil salesman), but based on recommendations here I have bought one gallon and I will try it later this week.

Thanks for the input.
Its meant to be a direct replacement for breakthrough 250
 

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I would think that PPG would make the replacement.

I would hope this is a good alternative. While I did like the quick dry time from Breakthrough!, Advance seems to spray out better for me (HVLP). Perhaps others with greater skills could get Breakthrough! satin to spray a bit smoother. For me, it always seemed to have a bit of texture. But it was a hard finish.

I will try the Command this week.

P.S.: In case anyone wonders why I add the exclamation mark at the end of "Breakthrough!" it is because that is the actual name of the product. I am not doing it for emphasis.
Well who the heck knows what PPG is doing with their residential paints lines. I really think they sit in a board room and DGAF about residential.

I have 50 or so shelves to shoot HVLP with command here, I'll post some findings whenever I get around to it.
 

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Do you prefer cabinet coat for dry time reasons or other advantages? I use primarily cabinet coat, but have considered Advance. I’ve wondered if advance is harder than cabinet coat although CC provides a very hard finish. Thx
Dry time, cure time is a bonus,plus its stupid easy to use. Even the most novice is painter with a spray gun can make it look perfect.
 

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My bad. I left out the hyphen. It should read “Break-Through!”

I just made up some test samples. All, brushed, all satin, all over brushed and sanded 1-2-3.

1. Break-Through! (White, from a previous job.)

2. Command, Simply White

3. Advance, Simply White

I have two coats of Break-Through! down, 4 hours between coats.

I have two coats of Command down, 4 hours between coats.

I have one coat of Advance down, with the second coat in the morning (20 hours)

The Break-Through! dries faster than the Command by about 10 minutes.

How long should I allow them to cure before testing the hardness of the finish?

I am using a Purdy Ox Hair brush for these samples, and it is brand new, this is the first time I’m using it. It has been shedding one or two bristles per sample. I never had that much shedding with a brush before. Is that normal? I am thinking I will have to toss it in the trash. Not a cheap brush either.

I will report my findings when the test is complete. The samples are on maple plywood 3” x 16”.
Don't use natural bristle for water based products, just use a regular nylon polyester. If you are judging dry times you should be using a wet mil gauge...
 

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I really want to compare the Advance, which dries slowly and the Command, which dries much faster. At what point will I have meaningful results?

Re: Wet Mil gage. I thought that was just to determine how thick the paint is before it dries. I was just noting that the Break-Through! seemed to dry quicker than Command.
Dry time is directly related to how thick the film is ie 3mil will dry faster than vs 4 mil
 

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Are the waterborne polys toxic when adding the catalyst?
Depends on the catalyst used, centurion makes different products for example and its the isocyanate catalyst that is super toxic. They also have an polyazidirine catalyst that is less toxic. some products can be used uncatalyzed.
For example:
1107 2K primer: Must be catalyzed with CW-4002 Isocyanate
Natural Look 2K: Must be catalyzed with CW-4002 Isocyanate
2800 series clear and pigmented urethane: Can be used with either Isocynate or polyazidirine or no catalyst at all.

Straight from the can the 2800 is already far superior to cabinet coat in every category. application, look, feel and hardness. The isocyanate catalyst adds a lot of solids and it becomes extremely hard like solvent conversion varnish with none of the drawbacks of a typical lacquer system. By the way it also sands to a powder.

Also I have brushed out some larger panels recently. It brushes great actually but it sets up pretty quick so you have to get it in one go. Not a lot of open time to keep working the material.
 

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Here is a link to paint safety for isocyanate paint spraying. I have been doing a little research after watching people on youtube rave about 2k products. Many small exposures over a long period of time can lead to serious consequences. Personally, I will not be using them until I have a supplied air respirator system in my shop. And then I haven't figured out a procedure for spraying in people's homes.

I'm considering buying a
3M™ Versaflo™ Powered Air Purifying Respirator Heavy Industry Kit TR-800-HIK for on site work. I tend to be over safe sometimes, but isocyanates do not seem like something to mess with.
Procedure for spraying in place would be everyone leaves the jobsite including HO. Or use the hybrid products uncatalyzed.
Personally I don't think its any different than if we were going to do an epoxy floor or customer requests precat lacquer in place or someone wants high gloss oil walls. Just be safe.
 
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