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This is white. I would deliver the cabinets within one week of painting. I would not have room for the next job if I sat on it longer than that. So I will give it 7 day’s maximum.

My reason for trying Command was because a set of emerald green cabinets did not seem hard enough when I delivered them. No call back and a sample I kept eventually did get hard.
 

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I really want to compare the Advance, which dries slowly and the Command, which dries much faster. At what point will I have meaningful results?

Re: Wet Mil gage. I thought that was just to determine how thick the paint is before it dries. I was just noting that the Break-Through! seemed to dry quicker than Command.
Dry time is directly related to how thick the film is ie 3mil will dry faster than vs 4 mil
 

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Well who the heck knows what PPG is doing with their residential paints lines. I really think they sit in a board room and DGAF about residential.

I have 50 or so shelves to shoot HVLP with command here, I'll post some findings whenever I get around to it.
So unless tannin bleed were a factor would you suggest skipping the primer if using Command? I think i remember you saying it has better adhesion than most primers. That'd sure make the workflow efficient.
 

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You'll be waiting months for Advance to harden. Especially in darker colours. I don't understand why so many guys on here use it.
For light to medium tone colours its fantastic. It certainly does NOT take months to harden. It's also all I can get around my parts. The stock black is pretty good too. What are you using.? What I really like about it, is the open time when backrolling the honey oak cabinets. It levels and melts back into itself so nicely. For straight up spray jobs, I wish I had better access to products like Milesi etc. Had high hopes for the Command, but not sold on it just yet..although the re-coat time is very impressive.
 

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I did note that the viscosity of the Break-Through! was considerably lower and much more watery than the other paints. That quite naturally meant less coating thickness and quicker drying times.

Logically, it would fare less well when painting over an open pore wood like oak, allowing more of that texture to telegraph through the finish.
 

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But we are professionals. I had two questions that I hope to answer with my comparison test.

1. How long it takes for a reasonable cure for Advance vs. Command.
2. How does it look.

For satin finish I think Advance looks better that my previous choice of Break-Through! which I abandoned when the dealer went out of business.

I will allow both the Command and the Advance 7 days to cure and then I will compare.
 

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Suprised no one in here is shooting real finishes. I stickly spray post cat conversion varnish. Why? Because it is the best cabinet finish period. Only down side is smell. Ive tried all the WB and they dont hold up as well as solvant.

I use ML Campbell
 

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Suprised no one in here is shooting real finishes. I stickly spray post cat conversion varnish. Why? Because it is the best cabinet finish period. Only down side is smell. Ive tried all the WB and they dont hold up as well as solvant.

I use ML Campbell
-4 years ago you introduced yourself as a full-time remodeler and cabinet builder. You said you were using Pro-Classic Acrylic Alkyd, trying to improve your spraying skills, and asked for tips on spraying lacquer.
-2 years ago you asked questions about how to get a good finish out of turbines.
-Last year you said asked about spraying cv through your AAA.
-This year you have it all figured out and are surprised that you're the only person here shooting "real" finishes, and the finish you spray is the "best cabinet finish period".

Do you have any idea how silly that sounds?

There are hundreds of full-time finishers on this forum with 30 + years of experience...who are continually trying to improve their process. Folks testing new products every chance they get, yet you think you're the only one shooting "real finishes"? Come on partner.

I don't disagree with CV being an excellent cabinet finish. I don't have anything negative to say about the products you're using, and I'm glad you've found something that works for you. But please don't be another one of those guys who claims their way is the only way, and their way is the best way, especially since there's probably so much that you've never done or tried. It really should be good enough to just offer up your opinion of what you feel is the best product without trying to belittle others to assert your superiority.
 

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-4 years ago you introduced yourself as a full-time remodeler and cabinet builder. You said you were using Pro-Classic Acrylic Alkyd, trying to improve your spraying skills, and asked for tips on spraying lacquer.
-2 years ago you asked questions about how to get a good finish out of turbines.
-Last year you said asked about spraying cv through your AAA.
-This year you have it all figured out and are surprised that you're the only person here shooting "real" finishes, and the finish you spray is the "best cabinet finish period".

Do you have any idea how silly that sounds?

There are hundreds of full-time finishers on this forum with 30 + years of experience...who are continually trying to improve their process. Folks testing new products every chance they get, yet you think you're the only one shooting "real finishes"? Come on partner.

I don't disagree with CV being an excellent cabinet finish. I don't have anything negative to say about the products you're using, and I'm glad you've found something that works for you. But please don't be another one of those guys who claims their way is the only way, and their way is the best way, especially since there's probably so much that you've never done or tried. It really should be good enough to just offer up your opinion of what you feel is the best product without trying to belittle others to assert your superiority.
-4 years ago you introduced yourself as a full-time remodeler and cabinet builder. You said you were using Pro-Classic Acrylic Alkyd, trying to improve your spraying skills, and asked for tips on spraying lacquer.
-2 years ago you asked questions about how to get a good finish out of turbines.
-Last year you said asked about spraying cv through your AAA.
-This year you have it all figured out and are surprised that you're the only person here shooting "real" finishes, and the finish you spray is the "best cabinet finish period".

Do you have any idea how silly that sounds?

There are hundreds of full-time finishers on this forum with 30 + years of experience...who are continually trying to improve their process. Folks testing new products every chance they get, yet you think you're the only one shooting "real finishes"? Come on partner.

I don't disagree with CV being an excellent cabinet finish. I don't have anything negative to say about the products you're using, and I'm glad you've found something that works for you. But please don't be another one of those guys who claims their way is the only way, and their way is the best way, especially since there's probably so much that you've never done or tried. It really should be good enough to just offer up your opinion of what you feel is the best product without trying to belittle others to assert your superiority.
Youre 100% right. Could be alot more humble about it. And yes, ive had questions in the past, and unfortunately had to be all self taught as no one had any good information for me or advice. However, I have been building and remodeling, and cabinet building for 17 years and do know a thing or two. But yes, it does shock me how many full time painters know so little about wood finishing. Most of my hostility is stemmed from arguments in facebook which I get sucked into way to easily, and is not the same vibe on this forum and don't mean to bring it here.

I do however wish I had skipped all my trial and error and started with a good air driven aaa pump and CV, because after trying just about everything, I do feel is one of the best cabinet and wood finishes available, ill just be nicer about it next time. Thanks for calling me out.
 

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do however wish I had skipped all my trial and error and started with a good air driven aaa pump and CV, because after trying just about everything, I do feel is one of the best cabinet and wood finishes available, ill just be nicer about it next time.
This is my story when i begin wood finishing maybe almost 2 decades ago.Live and learn :)
 

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Are the waterborne polys toxic when adding the catalyst?
Depends on the catalyst used, centurion makes different products for example and its the isocyanate catalyst that is super toxic. They also have an polyazidirine catalyst that is less toxic. some products can be used uncatalyzed.
For example:
1107 2K primer: Must be catalyzed with CW-4002 Isocyanate
Natural Look 2K: Must be catalyzed with CW-4002 Isocyanate
2800 series clear and pigmented urethane: Can be used with either Isocynate or polyazidirine or no catalyst at all.

Straight from the can the 2800 is already far superior to cabinet coat in every category. application, look, feel and hardness. The isocyanate catalyst adds a lot of solids and it becomes extremely hard like solvent conversion varnish with none of the drawbacks of a typical lacquer system. By the way it also sands to a powder.

Also I have brushed out some larger panels recently. It brushes great actually but it sets up pretty quick so you have to get it in one go. Not a lot of open time to keep working the material.
 

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Are the waterborne polys toxic when adding the catalyst?

Here is a link to paint safety for isocyanate paint spraying. I have been doing a little research after watching people on youtube rave about 2k products. Many small exposures over a long period of time can lead to serious consequences. Personally, I will not be using them until I have a supplied air respirator system in my shop. And then I haven't figured out a procedure for spraying in people's homes.

I'm considering buying a
3M™ Versaflo™ Powered Air Purifying Respirator Heavy Industry Kit TR-800-HIK for on site work. I tend to be over safe sometimes, but isocyanates do not seem like something to mess with.
 

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Here is a link to paint safety for isocyanate paint spraying. I have been doing a little research after watching people on youtube rave about 2k products. Many small exposures over a long period of time can lead to serious consequences. Personally, I will not be using them until I have a supplied air respirator system in my shop. And then I haven't figured out a procedure for spraying in people's homes.

I'm considering buying a
3M™ Versaflo™ Powered Air Purifying Respirator Heavy Industry Kit TR-800-HIK for on site work. I tend to be over safe sometimes, but isocyanates do not seem like something to mess with.
Procedure for spraying in place would be everyone leaves the jobsite including HO. Or use the hybrid products uncatalyzed.
Personally I don't think its any different than if we were going to do an epoxy floor or customer requests precat lacquer in place or someone wants high gloss oil walls. Just be safe.
 
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