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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
We recently got one of the Erecta Racks and the guys give it a :thumbsup:

It was easy to set up, very sturdy and comes in a handy carry bag.

This time they used it to stack doors after painting. It will really come in handy to stack trim, especially when staining. It seems like it would be great in a shop for doing cabinet doors as well.

 

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I think this is only for storage after the doors are painted and cured on all sides. You know.. to keep them from sticking together or spread out all over the house.
 

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They are just for drying. I would not use them to spray anything.
I spray the doors hanging and then pop the pins to move them out of the way to spray walls. This keeps from having to schlep them down the stairs and thru the house. We have wicked winds here, if I lean them in the open garage, there is a chance of getting blown over.

I wish I would have had them on a recent job with a huge stain trim package. I often spray trim in the garage on buckets and it is a PITA trying to lay it out.
 

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I often spray trim in the garage on buckets and it is a PITA trying to lay it out.
When I used to do a lot of that kind of work NC, we use to spray everything in place when staining and lacquering.

Stain was all sprayed in place, sanding sealer, and lacquer. Even the doors.

We use to brush Benite on the doors all 6 panel solid fir. Then have one guy spraying the stain and two guys with wiping rags. We would have that entire house stained in a day.

The baseboard would get done in the garage by hand.

We just sprayed the stain and lacquer righ on the PVA'd wall board, then scuffed up the sprayed areas, and painted over it. Never had any problems.

We used to wipe the stain off the hinges, I wonder what those lacquered hinges look like now?

:)

Eventually we started popping the doors and staining and finishing them against the wall.

We would screw little feet onto them to walk them around, it's pretty easy once you get used to it.

And for a while we did it where we would put sacrificial hinges on.

I have always envisioned a carousel shaped like a horse track/dry cleaner rack. The doors dangle from a track in the top screwed in from the top.

You pull the door down to the bend in the "track. Spray both sides, then pull it down to the other side of the track. The track is actually shaped like an elongated U. Set up the bend in the U near a window with a lot of ventalation suction pulling the overspray out. Use a furnace filter depending on what is happening outside.

When they are all stacked on the other side of the "U" they are done.

:)

They would need to be able to be taken down off the track and put back up with the hardware still intact. That way they could be sanded off of the track if necessary.

You wouldn't want to try to sand them all wobbly on the track. No leverage.

I have a different method for cabinet doors that I currently use that works awesome.

:)

But a lot of times we are doing older houses where the hinges are already painted. In those cases, we just spray the hinges, and let them get that little black mark from being opened and closed. It's so fast the customers save a lot of money that way.

And the little black mark doesn't look that bad when all the rest of the trim is popping and there are new laser straight trim lines all over the house. And they are used to the black mark because it's always been there.

But somethimes the hinges are clean or they replace them, so we pop the doors and spray them a variety of ways depending on the situation.

Depending on the hinges, sometimes we wedge the door open 90 degrees and mask them in place.

Also sometimes we pop the hinges after everything is sprayed and clean them/remove paint.

Just make sure to slice the old paint and loosen the hinges before you do anything. I forgot to do that once, and finshed everything then was still obligated to get the hinges off and clean the paint off.

Needless to say the majority of the hinges did not come off cleanly, and took some of the finish with them.

You only forget to do that once.

:yes:
 

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I spray all the trim after it is installed and the doors hanging, the hinges covered with hingemags. The trim I spray in the garage is just the baseboard that goes in after the tile.

The carousel sounds...interesting.:thumbsup:
 

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We just sprayed the stain and lacquer righ on the PVA'd wall board, then scuffed up the sprayed areas, and painted over it. Never had any problems.

Forgot to mention, these houses were all smooth wall. Obviously this wouldnt work with texture, especially new texture.

When the texture is new, I make sure there is primer uner it and over it, then spray primer on the texture to give the overspray on the wall some strength. ( meaning I allow 1 coat of overspray from spraying the trim to go onto the wall. Then I mask the wall on the primer layer.

Then spray two finish coats, unmask the walls, then paint the walls.

Somtimes with just one coat of finish, in order to avoid masking the walls, I have tried not to load up the wall when spraying the casing, and just squish the overspray down with a weenie roller so it doesn't build to thick in the texture.

The texture has to be primed real good with this strategy, or it can soak into the texture unevenly where it is sprayed and flash on the wall.
 

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The carousel sounds...interesting.:thumbsup:
BTW. Copyright, Last Craftsman all rights reserved!

:)

Thanks. Forgot to mention, the real advantage to this would be that the doors would take up minimal space and could even be zip walled around to crank some heat in the space and really cure them good and quick.

If you have a garage full of doors all spaced out, it can be hard to get the space heated depending on the situation.

And a lot of times the room that may be available in the house is way to small to set up a bunch of rows and columns of doors, or even to spray them against the wall and place them. Especially on a repaint where you don't necessarily have every space in the house to choose from to finish your doors.
 

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LC, man, i'm going to start just following you around and printing out all your posts. That way my lazy ass won't have to write of a systems manual - you'll have written them all for me :jester:

I'll just print them and put them in a binder .... The LC systems manual. :notworthy::notworthy::notworthy:
 

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LC, man, i'm going to start just following you around and printing out all your posts. That way my lazy ass won't have to write of a systems manual - you'll have written them all for me :jester:
Thanks. I appreciate that. I bet there are a ton of excellent systems that other forum members have that we haven't heard of. I think a lot of that stuff I mentioned might be standard practice in a lot of places, a lot of my approaches I learning because more than one company I worked for did it that way.

But the carousel is just an idea, I have never constructed one. I would have by now though if we did new construction where you always have a bunch of new doors that need finishing, every single job.

I think it would be cool if someone constructed one.

But my cabinet door system I use in practice. Pm me and I'll tell you what it is and maybe it will work for you.

:)
 

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I would be worried about dirt and dust dropping down to the freshly painted door when stacking the next one. Looks like alot of work. I prefer the quicktruss doorstands. Paint 4 sides at once and no handling wet doors.

http://store.283yellow.com/qudo6pa.html
Agreed, the only issue is if you don't have the floorspace to do them all at once. Even without dust issues paint is gonna be soft and you risk scratching or marring the finish by stacking them like that.
 

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I tried to read all this in one sitting, but..I fell asleep twice from working my eyes so much.

.....So much work....So little time


There is nothing to add. Goodnight
 

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whats wrong with a shop where you spray all the doors and trim in a booth? After cure, put that stuff in a trailer and deliver to satisfied customer?
 
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