So, did you bid it?
I've only recently found this forum but this topic is right up my alley:yes:. First question is; what kind of finish is currently on the millwork?... it's likely a pre-cat nitrocellulose lacquer, applied over a wiping stain.
Pricing this?
-The species in the sample you're trying to achieve is deffinately Red Oak; from what I can tell, so are the existing cabs; this is a good thing.
-From what I can see in the pictures, the cabs are face framed; this is not so good.
-If they are lacquered, there is no reason to strip anything when going dark like the sample. If the existing finish is sound (check the inside/top edge of the doors on the sink cabinets for deterioration, they get the most abuse), then simply wash with TSP and sand the sh*t out of them. Once you've cut the existing lacquer, shoot a "wash coat" (40/60; solvent/ pre-cat sealer) on them and shade with "microtoners" to darken the "tight grain" of the Oak (you'll need to make a "breakout board" on the back of a drawerfront to get the toners right). When you're dark enough, finish with a two coat (shoot/ light sand/ shoot) pre-cat top coat in the chosen sheen (sample appears to be about 40 degree).
Obviously, this requires a complete shut down of the kitchen while the sitework is in progress. Everything you can take "off-site" should be R & R'd. Shooting toners with a conventional, inside a furnished house, requires severe overspray discipline and a means of achieving safe/filtered make-up air and exhaust.
Are you tooled up/sufficiently experienced to be considering tackling this kind of job? I could do this job @ $14/sq and make money but I'd probably ask for around $25-$30 (I'd have to see the site)...this is highly specialized work.
This coating system will perform as well as the original and would be fully warranted.
Stripping?...If it's lacquered, you're hauling out the methylene chloride...stripping all that face framing + island panels + end gables...on site?...ewwww
.
Cheers, Ron
I've only recently found this forum but this topic is right up my alley:yes:. First question is; what kind of finish is currently on the millwork?... it's likely a pre-cat nitrocellulose lacquer, applied over a wiping stain.
Pricing this?
-The species in the sample you're trying to achieve is deffinately Red Oak; from what I can tell, so are the existing cabs; this is a good thing.
-From what I can see in the pictures, the cabs are face framed; this is not so good.
-If they are lacquered, there is no reason to strip anything when going dark like the sample. If the existing finish is sound (check the inside/top edge of the doors on the sink cabinets for deterioration, they get the most abuse), then simply wash with TSP and sand the sh*t out of them. Once you've cut the existing lacquer, shoot a "wash coat" (40/60; solvent/ pre-cat sealer) on them and shade with "microtoners" to darken the "tight grain" of the Oak (you'll need to make a "breakout board" on the back of a drawerfront to get the toners right). When you're dark enough, finish with a two coat (shoot/ light sand/ shoot) pre-cat top coat in the chosen sheen (sample appears to be about 40 degree).
Obviously, this requires a complete shut down of the kitchen while the sitework is in progress. Everything you can take "off-site" should be R & R'd. Shooting toners with a conventional, inside a furnished house, requires severe overspray discipline and a means of achieving safe/filtered make-up air and exhaust.
Are you tooled up/sufficiently experienced to be considering tackling this kind of job? I could do this job @ $14/sq and make money but I'd probably ask for around $25-$30 (I'd have to see the site)...this is highly specialized work.
This coating system will perform as well as the original and would be fully warranted.
Stripping?...If it's lacquered, you're hauling out the methylene chloride...stripping all that face framing + island panels + end gables...on site?...ewwww
.Cheers, Ron
