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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got an exterior trim job to bid, half of the wood was replaced with azak.
I've done some research and found that 100% acrylic latex is the way to go,
no primer needed. Going to caulk with good caulking first, then two coats off white Ben Moore finish.

Has anyone worked with azak before? is this information correct?
Will it stand up over time?
 

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We have done it. Check the Azex specs for the particular product you are painting, they provide good paint instructions. We have done it with acrylic and no primer successfully. Paint bonds to it like crazy. The stuff doesnt expand and contract across its width like wood, rather it expands and contracts over its length. So dont be alarmed if it looks like its changing when the sun hits it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ya Mark, been straight out. Hired a few extra guys and even worked thru the weekend. Been doing allot of decks.

Brian, yes I believe it is a vinyl product, and the same instructions for siding applies.

I'll keep ya posted with pics if you like.
 

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Its PVC, just like the pipe that plumbers use.
I'm not trying to split hairs, but there are different types of PVC (or at least that is my understanding). PVC means polyvinyl chloride. My understanding is that this is a somewhat generic term, but I'm no chemist. Different chemical components/ processes can yield CPVC or UPVC (and maybe others).

I know that some "vinyl" shutters-- I use the term somewhat generically-- are paintable and others aren't. When we replace shutters it's a big issue with us to determine the color the customer wants if they opt for "vinyl".

I'm not trying to be a jerk. But we need to understand the substrate and how to paint it. If we are too quick to label something X, we might be making a mistake. Been there, done that. For example, I thought all fiber cement products are Hardie. They aren't.

Brian Phillips
 

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you need to be color of the color or more specifically the LRV (light reflective value) the darker colors won't work and will actually absorb so much heat that they will warp themselves right off the wall. Special paint can be bought but when I bought it about 3 years ago it was upwards of $80/gal.
 

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I believe some SW and PPG products are now rated to be safe for Azek or made to handle the color issue. But yes I have heard that the darker colors can give you problems, similar to if you were to paint vinyl siding a darker color then the original.
 

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I've done some research and found that 100% acrylic latex is the way to go,
no primer needed.

...two coats off white Ben Moore finish.

Has anyone worked with azak before? is this information correct?
Will it stand up over time?
Yes, I've worked with it numerous times over the past few years with a few different paints

The earliest data sheets from Azek only mention SW products, as they had a "you test we'll spec you" deal
The latest information includes a few other paint manufacturers

Although you could certainly use a primer, it is not recommended
I have not used one yet

I've successfully used Duration, Manor Hall, and Moorglo Softgloss with no primer
All seem to hold about the same, all need two thin coats (although Duration is thicker, it still needs two thin coats)
One important point not mentioned in any lit. I've found is that the trim must be clean, clean, clean
Really paint doesn't want to stick to it...you need every advantage
Those nail guns tend to put a lovely thin spray of oil on the trim...you might not even see it
You need to clean in with lacquer thinner or acetone, something that does not leave a film
Paint thinner, mineral spirits, etc...they leave enough of an oil film it could mess you up

But yeah, two coats of MoorGlo will work fine
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Should have known you'd know Slick, thanks Moorglo was my first choice,
I've already powerwashed, so the dirt is gone, and I plan on a light sand.

Was going to get in touch with you anyways...heading back to the Island
sometime in June. will keep you posted.
 
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