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Exterior Paint Removal wood house

15306 Views 30 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  IHATE_HOMEDEPOT
Here is a job that we are on now. The wood house is 130 years old, we are the lucky ones choosen to remove all the paint. I will update the pictures as the job goes on.

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Man... who did you piss off to get that job. Your braver then me.
Wow ! hands down to you and your crew !! I never seen something like it, Miami all concrete houses. This is the most of wood I`ve done.
Home House Property Car Vehicle




And now We are doing commercial.
Praying for this one....

Condominium Metropolitan area Architecture Mixed-use Building
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Wow, that's one labor intensive job. I almost set the side of a house on fire one time trying to burn off paint on a house like that. :whistling2:

Anyways, nice pics... thanks for sharing. :thumbsup:
Matt, have you ever seen infrared paint removers? They aren't super pricey, take off ALL paint with minimal heat, which means latex, oil, or lead can be done safely, quickly, and easily...check it out

http://www.eco-strip.com/ProdStripper.htmlhttp://www.eco-strip.com/Products.html
Matt, have you ever seen infrared paint removers? They aren't super pricey, take off ALL paint with minimal heat, which means latex, oil, or lead can be done safely, quickly, and easily...check it out

http://www.eco-strip.com/ProdStripper.html
That's a pretty cool product. I've never seen one before.

Do you use one?
Do you use one?
This is where I'm supposed to say, "yes".

But I haven't...yet. I was given the opportunity on a HUGE mansion, but I have no frickin' time. The HO bought 2 of them and said they are amazing...

ugg
Impressive! Looks like a good way to remove lead paint. Thanks for the photos.
That's a pretty cool product. I've never seen one before.

Do you use one?

We have done a few small projects with the "silent paint remover" http://www.silentpaintremover.com/spr/index.htm

We have one starting next week to strip two small porches, 4 window sills, and about 150sq/ft of siding/trim.

It is a pre-1978 home so we got lead-safe certified for the project.

Nice thing about the infrared, is it only gets about 400 degrees, so it is very hard to set the wood on fire(about 750 degrees) but plenty hot to strip the paint.

It is VERY COOL, but VERY SLOW. I believe the production rate could go very quickly if we invested in all the different articulating arms and stuff that hold it in place while you're scraping what you previously had it resting on... but we don't have enough demand yet, and experience with it to go that route just yet....

I will post some pics and progress as we get it started if ya'll are interested.

Question though for you guys that have alot of experience with stripping paint.

What do you do with the surface after it is stripped? we recently did 18 4' x 15' flying buttresses with stripper, belt sanded what was underneath, cleaned, primed, and painted. the customer wasn't expecting ANY of that kind of prep work(prestigious private school in our town) and has already given us a TON more work and we've gotten nice referrals and know that we have built an awesome first impression of ourselves for them, BUT I still didn't think they looked as awesome as I expected they would... luckily they did!

It was like it needed some kind of extra step(like some kind of exterior dry wall compound, but obviously not that... As you can tell, I'm not much of a technician:whistling2:) Any suggestions for what I'm missing?

Would love to know before we start on this next project next week(which is on a very prominent street in town with alot of traffic - I want to wow the neighbors...)

thanks guys for your help!!!


Ethan
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Ethan, use some automotive "spot putty" to skim and fill in small imperfections. You can get glass like finishes.
Ethan, use some automotive "spot putty" to skim and fill in small imperfections. You can get glass like finishes.
thanks painterman for the tip.

we use bondo, recommendations for a better product?
Ethan, use some automotive "spot putty" to skim and fill in small imperfections. You can get glass like finishes.
Bondo? I hate that stuff.
Here are some progress pictures. After stripping the paint we had to wait 30 days to prime and repaint. I will post finish pictures when complete sometime next week we are noww priming.

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That's a great idea to apply the peel, n strip with a texture pump!
...what a mess... hate that stuff!
How many man hours to strip an old project like that?
r
Wow that is remarkable so far, thanks for the pics.
We have done a few small projects with the "silent paint remover" http://www.silentpaintremover.com/spr/index.htm

We have one starting next week to strip two small porches, 4 window sills, and about 150sq/ft of siding/trim.

It is a pre-1978 home so we got lead-safe certified for the project.

Nice thing about the infrared, is it only gets about 400 degrees, so it is very hard to set the wood on fire(about 750 degrees) but plenty hot to strip the paint.

It is VERY COOL, but VERY SLOW. I believe the production rate could go very quickly if we invested in all the different articulating arms and stuff that hold it in place while you're scraping what you previously had it resting on... but we don't have enough demand yet, and experience with it to go that route just yet....

I will post some pics and progress as we get it started if ya'll are interested.

Question though for you guys that have alot of experience with stripping paint.

What do you do with the surface after it is stripped? we recently did 18 4' x 15' flying buttresses with stripper, belt sanded what was underneath, cleaned, primed, and painted. the customer wasn't expecting ANY of that kind of prep work(prestigious private school in our town) and has already given us a TON more work and we've gotten nice referrals and know that we have built an awesome first impression of ourselves for them, BUT I still didn't think they looked as awesome as I expected they would... luckily they did!

It was like it needed some kind of extra step(like some kind of exterior dry wall compound, but obviously not that... As you can tell, I'm not much of a technician:whistling2:) Any suggestions for what I'm missing?

Would love to know before we start on this next project next week(which is on a very prominent street in town with alot of traffic - I want to wow the neighbors...)

thanks guys for your help!!!


Ethan
For the past two years all we've done is paint restorations on cedar siding our procedure is as follows: Strip [pro-shaver] - sand [pro-sander] - oil prime- 120 grit [orbital] - two finish coats with lights hand sand in-between. Invest in a Hepa Vacuum and a pro-shaver if your removing paint.

Heres a pic of after pro-shaver

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After pro-shaver

Close up of after pro-sander, as you can see the corners need hand scraping.

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Finished product and a before pic

Doesn't show up well in pic, but previous painter had smoothed over all cracks and alligatoring with filler [4 years prior].

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