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· PinheadsUnite
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Talking with a friend & fellow paperhanger who is so slow that he's bidding on an exterior paint job.

He's heard from another who paints regularly (name withheld to protect the guilty :whistling2: ) that the common theory today is to prime new or raw wood with oil, apply coat of latex primer over the oil, and then finish with latex (I would assume acrylic)

My old school teaching was oil primer over raw wood, but the finish acrylic would go directly onto that - no intermediate coat of latex primer.

If this "new school" approach is commonplace, can someone give reasons for it or at least the theory behind it ?

thanks,

-Bill
 

· PinheadsUnite
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys,

I'll pass that on unless someone else promotes what he had heard about oil primer > latex primer > latex finish

nice to hear SOME things haven't changed in the last 15 years.

-Bill
 

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If people want two top coats - I always substitute the first coat of paint for a coat of tinted 100% acrylic latex primer. I find that this better seals the entire home - so I spot prime the bare wood with oil primer - then go over the entire surface with a latex primer - and then a finish coat. Trust me it works a ton better in New England - much less susceptible to peeling and blistering. Latex paint can stick, but doesn't 'seal'. Getting a latex exterior primer/sealer will allow the topcoat of paint to stick to a surface below it that is totally sealed off. I tried this technique on a few 'problem' homes that peel with each painter - and it doesn't peel at all.
 

· Rock On
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He's heard from another who paints regularly (name withheld to protect the guilty :whistling2: ) that the common theory today is to prime new or raw wood with oil, apply coat of latex primer over the oil, and then finish with latex (I would assume acrylic)
He should stop listening to Another Who Paints Regularly
There is no such common theory, by any stretch of the imagination
Another Who Paints Regularly should stop watching DIYNetwork television shows for his painting application theory

If this "new school" approach is commonplace, can someone give reasons for it or at least the theory behind it ?
Another theory is that Another Who Paints Regularly is just making zhit up
 

· PinheadsUnite
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
DAMN, you guyz have no idea how hard I'm laughing at the comments being made about "Another Who Paints Regularly".

AND no it ain't the booger. I'll make sure Another Who Paints Regularly knows what's been said, hopefully he was misquoted.

too funny
 

· PinheadsUnite
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I had feeling he misunderstood. But damn it was a good thread while it lasted. and you know me, I only know the rumors I spread

:thumbup:
 

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exterior paint

Just recently i started some exterior projects myself and I went to sherwin williams and they gave me a free sample of "Duration(latex) self priming" exterior paint, hey that's what they called it. Anyways, with this paint you suppose to apply 2 coats over bear wood and it should cover and last, well it did and it did a pretty good job, although more expensive ($40 and up per gallon) it does save time and labour...try it out.
 

· PinheadsUnite
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
although more expensive ($40 and up per gallon) it does save time and labour...
Jeepers, I must be talking to the wrong people. Now a days $40 a gallon don't sound "more expensive"

Last winter one of those I talk to was wondering who was going to first break the $100.00 a gallon barrier. Well now, many have. And when I saw this same guy last week he was telling me how a quart of the Fallow and Ball paint he was using was $32/quart BEFORE shipping from the UK. Now THAT'S "more expensive" :jester:
 

· The Lurker
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Jeepers, I must be talking to the wrong people. Now a days $40 a gallon don't sound "more expensive"

Last winter one of those I talk to was wondering who was going to first break the $100.00 a gallon barrier. Well now, many have. And when I saw this same guy last week he was telling me how a quart of the Fallow and Ball paint he was using was $32/quart BEFORE shipping from the UK. Now THAT'S "more expensive" :jester:

I can get F & B in downtown Chicago for 88$ gallon and your right I think its 33 a qt.
 

· PinheadsUnite
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I asked the painter why he couldn't get it in gallons, he made me think it was not available, maybe they were having "shipping" problems.

I didn't question what he said too much. For once I wasn't in a mood to give him the third degree :jester:

Or maybe he wouldn't let me get a word in edgewise, as usual :mad:
 

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.....not to discredit any old timers but yall should really look into the technology of todays paints. Duration, Permanizer, Manor Hall.....etc are all self priming coatings that save time and material. I often see old timers complaining about under bidders when in fact they fail to use new products that were designed to save time and money and provide profit. Priming raw wood with primer is almost a thing of the past......almost like using oil paints in general. I saw a guy the other day brushing all the siding on a house, he also did all his book work on a journal and ledger and listend to am radio.
 

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There may be 'self' priming paints on the market that you think are the cat's meow. But the truth is, everything that goes into these paints to make it a 'paint' do nothing for the performance in the 'sealer' ability. Not saying they are bad products. But I'd definitely approach the customer with two different prices and make them understand that the latter 'cheaper' method is still very young and untested compared to more stalwart ways of prepping.

But most of this is irrelevent anyways - I haven't been able to sell a 2-coat paint job in over 4 years now - and niether has any of my competition. So what do you really lose in priming bare wood with a primer anyways, if you are only going to topcoat with one coat of paint?
 

· Super Moderator
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For new interior construction, I like two coats of primer on raw wood or mdf that is not pre-primed.

For exterior, I find that exterior wood gets solid stain and the composite materials are pre-finished with the first coat of stain or paint. Most stuff will at least be up pre-primed in new construction. For repaint exteriors, it seems that when primer is needed, it usually needs to block tannins and other bleed through, so the Duration style products are not the right "primer" for the job. Still need oil for that.

As far as brushing exteriors, after hearing stories from homeowners who have had there cars painted by the neighbors painters, hearing about painters who have had to buff off cars parked a half mile away, car lots hit with paint from a couple miles away, I am not sure spraying exterior is always advisable. When ever I have watched an exterior being sprayed, there is usually one drop cloth down by the sprayed and they are relying on a shield, not masking off windows, shudders, concrete, etc. That is NOT the way to go.
 
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