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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I come from the autobody world where high build filler primer is used and it works very well for leveling out surfaces. Is there such a thing for wood? I am taking on an oak cabinet project where I need to fill the wood grain. I'd like to spray on a few coats of primer, sand, and the wood grain be gone. Trying to work smarter not harder here lol! I'm wondering if rustoleum automotive filller primer would work on wood? Any other products you've used to such as a wood filler primer?

Thanks!!
 

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Hello,

I come from the autobody world where high build filler primer is used and it works very well for leveling out surfaces. Is there such a thing for wood? I am taking on an oak cabinet project where I need to fill the wood grain. I'd like to spray on a few coats of primer, sand, and the wood grain be gone. Trying to work smarter not harder here lol! I'm wondering if rustoleum automotive filller primer would work on wood? Any other products you've used to such as a wood filler primer?

Thanks!!
Two coats Zinsser Smartprime.

Sand smooth, and ready for paint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Centurion 1107 primer. Its really amazing. 1 coat 10miles wet will fill oak grain
Wow I just watched a video on it. Impressive. Would you sand, then spray centurion, then seal it, then top coat? What sealer would you do, would you use an enamel paint?
Thank you!!
 

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Very similar high build filler type primers used in the autobody world are also used for closed pore wood finishing. You might consider shooting a couple of coats of a high build polyester undercoater over a polyurethane barrier sealer finished off with a 2K urethane. Ilva has some pretty great systems for closed pore high build mirror-like finishes. The benefit of polyester vs polyurethane undercoaters is is that polyester doesn’t shrink back.

I’ve included the following literate below where you can find info on Ilva’s closed pore finishing systems.

https://www.ics-ilva.com/downloads/ILVA-Red-Book-2018.pdf

I’ve also used high build automotive polyester undercoaters such as EverCoat’s Feather Fill on wood, but I’d recommend using a polyurethane barrier sealer, polyester undercoater, and top coat system by Ilva in lieu of automotive polyester undercoaters, being that it’s been tried, proven, and lasting, particularly in the luxury yacht industry.
 

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Centurion 1107 primer. Its really amazing. 1 coat 10miles wet will fill oak grain


Vessel diameters in mature red oaks are > .012 inches or 12 mils, so I doubt 1 coat @ a 10 mil wet film thickness with a waterborne undercoater is remotely adequate to fill pores..

You can achieve a 12 mil dry film thickness with a polyester surfacer such as Feather Fill G2 with 3 coats applied in as little as 5 minute intervals, and have it sand-ready in < 1.5 hrs

Probably looking at 3-4 coats of the 1107 for 100% pore fill on mature red oak.
 

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Vessel diameters in mature red oaks are > .012 inches or 12 mils, so I doubt 1 coat @ a 10 mil wet film thickness with a waterborne undercoater is remotely adequate to fill pores..

You can achieve a 12 mil dry film thickness with a polyester surfacer such as Feather Fill G2 with 3 coats applied in as little as 5 minute intervals, and have it sand-ready in < 1.5 hrs

Probably looking at 3-4 coats of the 1107 for 100% pore fill on mature red oak.
if I never have to look at a can of polyester again that would be great. The pot life and cleanup basically make it a non starter for me. Water based 2k and goodfilla are enough for me for now
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the tips everyone. When it comes to spraying on wood I am new to finishing. With things like centurion and other brands..what top coats and sealers can I use alongside them? Can I use enamel paint with a polyester or the centurion etc? If someone could lay out the steps they like to take with the cabinets it would be much appreciated and I'm sure would help others too.
 

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Its important to note that Redux is talking about some seriously specialized, factory grade products here, that most painters have no clue about, and you will have a problem finding them in a store without a special order.

As far as regular old, professional painting, primers wont do the trick, not even auto filler primer. Ive done it. Ive found that the first prime coat on oak needs to be backbrushed or rolled, just to get in the grain properly, and thats not filling it, just getting the paint in. Just like a major gouge on a car body wont fill with primer, and needs spot putty. Most people that actually want to fill oak grain do it like applying spot putty. Im not contesting Redux and Coco... I believe them about their products but they arent your everyday paint store primers.

The fact is, waterborne primers are just as high build as auto filler primer, they just arent as sandable. Lacquer undercoaters are pretty close to auto primer, but theres debate on what they can and cant be used over and under.
 

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Grey Wood Automotive exterior Rectangle Tints and shades

This is 1 coat of Smart Prime (aka 123 Plus) sands to powder (see photo) with 220 after 1 hour dry time.
 

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I believe smart prime and bullseye 1 2 3 are different products right?
yes, SmartPrime and Bullseye123 are different primers. *SmartPrime is sometimes sold as 123Plus.

SmartPrime (aka. 123Plus) is a “stain locking” water based primer, which you will want for Oak.
Bullseye123 is a universal water based primer.
 

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Smart Prime DFT 1-1.5 mils

Sikkens High Build 2K urethane Surfacer DFT 2.7 mils

Axalta Pre-Cat Lacquer Undercoater DFT 1 mil

EverCoat Slicksand High Build Polyester Spray Filler DFT 6 mils

Based on DFTs for above mentioned products, for a sprayable pore filler on oak, I’d opt for polyester….but I wouldn’t apply wet on wet…rather, I’d allow each coat to dry and knock each coat down with sandpaper in order to minimize the chances for developing pinholes. It’s certainly a lot faster than using conventional grain fillers which also require multiple coats. I’d also opt for a soup to nuts system which includes a PU isolator and 2K PU top coat.

Although having only utilized polyester for pore filling on a few occasions, I was further sold on the concept a few weeks ago when touring a millwork facility which manufactures wood interiors for luxury yachts & aircraft. Their finishing department solely uses polyester for pore filling under 95%+ sheen finishes. Nicest work I’ve ever seen.
 

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Will these spray out of a normal airless?
Due to polyester’s very short pot life, it’s not something you’d want to run through anything other than a conventional air driven/gravity feed gun. You’d need to break down the gun and clean it in typically under 30 minutes, give or take, sometimes even sooner.
 

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Will these spray out of a normal airless?
goodfilla yes if you mix thin enough, you can even add it into smart prime if you want.
polyester i would only use a cheap HF gun and toss it after. I tried polyester once since jeff jewitt speaks highly of the material in his books. It works great but not a friendly product to work with. IMO any time savings by using such a fast material are negated by the time spent keeping equipment clean with solvents.
centurion 1107 yes, has a sufficiently long pot life to spray airless. see it sprayed here with a x08 orifice.

Their 2800 series topcoat has tint bases you can dispense BM formulas into and match reasonably close. They'll be coming out with a solvent 2K and exterior stuff soon as I'm told.
 
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