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I am wondering how many guys use floetrol consistently with there interior paints. I do in some instances (stairwells for slow dry time) but not all the time. I almost always use penetrol with my oils though. How bout u?
 

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I use it occasionally on interior trim, however, I tend to not use it because I swear it "yellows" a nice semi-gloss white a tiny bit.

someone here mentioned a similar product that used less per gallon and didn't yellow. Anyone know what it was, I'd like to try it.
 

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I have used Penetrol on occasion but I have not tried Floetrol. I hate the fact that a $50. can of paint needs something to make it work better. It does work as advertised; I would think that Floetrol would be same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I use it occasionally on interior trim, however, I tend to not use it because I swear it "yellows" a nice semi-gloss white a tiny bit.



someone here mentioned a similar product that used less per gallon and didn't yellow. Anyone know what it was, I'd like to try it.
I agree, it does yellow a bit.

XIM makes a latex paint conditioner. This may be the product you have heard about. This won't yellow white paint and is actually what I use instead of Floetrol. You should be able to find it at one of your local paint shops next to the Floetrol. Good product:thumbsup:
 

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Floetrol vs Latex X-Tender

Thanks Paint to fish. The above posters are right about Penetrol. It has an oil in it and tends to yellow in lighter coatings. Latex X-Tender is a newer chemistry and leaves no residue in water based paints. It also gives you a true gloss in the finish coat. It should be available at at most major paint stores (no Big Box) and as of January on the shelf at SW stores. There is also a more rare product called X-Tender that is a special order product. It made for oil based paints. No yellowing. I gave some to a painting contractor friend who does a lot of interior trim with Pro Classic. He swears by it.
 

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I have used Floetrol out west when the temps are high and the humidity is low. Floetrol works excellent to allow more open time but when spraying watch for sagging, especially in the new hybrid acrylics like MH, Dura-Poxy and Breakthrough. I also have used it for faux finishing.

On another note for you guys back East. There are products made out west that require two gallons of water boxed into them for them to work. Many manufacturers make their products knowing they will be modified by the end users.
 

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I have been told not to use these products with some paints, like Graham's Ceramic product. I understand that waterborne chemistry is touchy and sometimes these additives can cause a precipitate to form in the paint leaving a gritty finish.
 
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