Used to be some caulk type (use in a caulking gun), never really looked at it though....
That sounds like what I am looking for, I know the 33 is going to take too much time, I haven't done many window glazings over the years, thank God.You also may want to check out Aqua-glaze. I don't know if they sell it in your area but here it works great for spring painting. You can prime/paint over it not long after you glaze (i wait at least overnight). I have seen it shrink slightly before and i think that may depend on the environmental conditions during application. Speed wise it is much faster to apply than DAP 33. Good luck.
responding to a post that is 8 years oldI also use Aqua Glaze, found it always to be perfect, if my workers don't have that then we use Dap 33 as well. Thanks for this info guys
Long Island Painter
what is the best primer to put over Dap 33 and dap 1040?Rich said:I am lucky to have glazed many many windows. There is very good money in glazing, if the customers are willing to pay for it. I use 33, always have, and love it. There are imitations, but nothing like 33 IMO. My biggest job was about 20 windows 9 over 9. I love it. Call me strange.
Really why not post on old threads? It's still there. If say glazing is ur concern pick up where they left off? Whenever it was.Gotdibz said:after about 8 gallons (complete exterior reglazing) I'm sticking with Sarco Multi-Glaze. will only use dap 33 for repairs and nothing more. Halloween's around the corner and old threads are rising from the dead.
Depending on the weather and where the windows are in terms of the amount of sun the receive, I usually prime them after 4-5 days.And dudettes. I've found leaving 33 too long in the south it can crack, mildew, and deteriorate. I put a good oil primer over it as soon as possible and paint. I've also seen LOTS of tube caulk used on window glazing. People use what's around. I enjoy glazing and saving old windows--don't get me started on "replacement" windows...