Good finish, pitting, and orange peel on same door

765 Views 22 Replies 7 Participants Last post by FlawlessFinishRenos, 16 d ago

FlawlessFinishRenos

Discussion Starter · 27 d ago

I have a Titan 1500 controlmax and for the first time in almost 10 years of spraying I busted a seal after just 4 months. It was a huge pain to remove actually had the guard in 4 pieces before I managed to get the seal out. I tried cleaning it and putting it back in but it still leaks. I live in a backwards part of Canada and the only titan products I can get are tips without new seals. So I purchased a graco rac x guard and 417 tip(only one available)

I'm trying to finish a set of cabinets and the craziest thing keeps happening. On the same door I'll get a nice finish then 2 inches over I'll have pitting then 2 inches beyond that I'm getting orange peel. I've attached a couple pics.
I'm using Command paint thinned about 10% with distilled water, vegetable glycerin, and dawn soap( I've used this for 5 years with out an issue)

Wood Rectangle Automotive exterior Molding Plaster

Wood Rectangle Automotive exterior Material property Flooring

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FlawlessFinishRenos

Discussion Starter · #21 · 16 d ago

I probably should have mentioned that it's a very small amount. 1 drop of dawn per 2L of thinner. I found less is more with dawn.
I was a glazer for a couple years and besides saliva which works the best dawn soap worked the best to keep caulking from sticking to tools. This is because it's a great surfactant. Lowering the surface tension so much it doesn't stick. I spent some time years ago experimenting with different things and found this to be the best combination. For example floetrol's main ingredient is vg.

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RH

· #22 · 16 d ago

FlawlessFinishRenos said:
Green dawn dish soap and vegetable glycerin both work as surfactants. Water based paint thinners use water and a blend of surfactants. Ive tried dawn, vg, blue antifreeze, and other things. I know a bit about chemistry and after many trials ive found that dawn and vg work best. When you lower the surface tension of paint it covers better. Only issue I have is it extends the open time.

Bottom line; you can do whatever you want. But what has many here somewhat smackgobbed, is that anyone would regularly add stuff to their paint that isn’t designed to be added to it. Pretty sure that doing so would void any guarantees the paint companies provide (though those are largely worthless anyway) but my bigger concern would be that the product would be compromised and then so would the entire project.

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FlawlessFinishRenos

Discussion Starter · #23 · 16 d ago

RH said:
would void any guarantees the paint companies provide (though those are largely worthless anyway)

As for the chemistry comment, sorry, but that’s just rather silly. I know little bit about trains, but that doesn’t qualify me to operate a locomotive.

I try not to brag but me knowing a little bit about chemistry means I've set up and run small labs.
I say I know a little about electronics. This means I know how to design, fabricate circuit boards, put them together, troubleshoot, revise circuits including ic's and microprocessors.
I do alot of experimentation always looking to learn and improve. The controlmax is a small sprayer shooting at 1600psi I don't like having to spray at full power. Thinning command at 10-15% depending on colour allows me to spray at 3.5-4 instead of 5.
I understand people are mind boggled but I'm not just pulling this out of my ass. You would not be able to tell the difference between my thinned command and full strength.
Nor in anyway am I encouraging the use of this thinner I was just telling what I am using and the fact that my issue has nothing to do with my thinner.
Once my proper tip came in I managed to get the doors finished near flawless like normal. Unfortunately once in awhile I get a hair or some **** on a door during final.
I'm not trying in anyway to be dick and appreciate the constructive criticism

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