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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys recently installed (4) new 1/2" sheets of drywall on my friend's mother ceiling and bedded, taped, second and third coat mudded the seams primed and 2 coats of paint and the drywall seams are still somewhat visible...if you asked her mother it is like the sky is falling and she is frustrated and I want to fix but don't wanna keep spinning my wheels doing so on this favor. Do you believe rather than skim coating or feathering out from the existing ceiling to the new sheets 12" or so that a High Build Primer and repaint could put these issues to bed?
 

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She has every right to be upset if she paid for the service or if you gave her the idea that you could do it as well as any professional. However, if you did it for free with the understanding that you'd do the best you could, I could totally understand your position, (trying to do something nice for someone at no cost to them, only to have them unhappy with your free work). Managing expectations is key when trying to do work for anyone; whether it be paid work or not.

There's no primer or paint on the planet that would hide those seams, since you'd be adding just as much product to the high areas as the lows.

Are you a professional drywaller or painter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
She has every right to be upset if she paid for the service or if you gave her the idea that you could do it as well as any professional. However, if you did it for free with the understanding that you'd do the best you could, I could totally understand your position, (trying to do something nice for someone at no cost to them, only to have them unhappy with your free work). Managing expectations is key when trying to do work for anyone; whether it be paid work or not.

There's no primer or paint on the planet that would hide those seams, since you'd be adding just as much product to the high areas as the lows.

Are you a professional drywaller or painter?
Painter with of course minor drywall repairs as necessary. I will suck it up and feather out the joints further, thanks!
 

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Put a straight edge on it and figure out what side is low. Maybe both sides are and you humped the joint. If that's the case put mud down each side feathered out. Its not easy to do especially on ceilings. from the picture it looks like mud needs to go on the inside portion toward the middle of the room and not the outside toward the wall but that could just be an illusion from the photo. Its about where you put the mud.
 

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Put a straight edge on it and figure out what side is low. Maybe both sides are and you humped the joint. If that's the case put mud down each side feathered out. Its not easy to do especially on ceilings. from the picture it looks like mud needs to go on the inside portion toward the middle of the room and not the outside toward the wall but that could just be an illusion from the photo. Its about where you put the mud.
Good advice. I’d add that you could/should take a level (2” or 4”) and see where you need to load on the mud. Don’t be afraid to Mark with a pencil where you reckon you need to work out to to level it’ll help you not get lost.
Can I ask what size knives/trowel you were using? I generally go 6” to 8” to 14” trowel to hide those bad boys- sure it’s more sanding but I don’t want to be able to find them either
 

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I'm no taping expert, but I do have three widths on my taping knives. I have not used them in a while but they are probably 4", 8" and 12" wide. After I tape the joint I knock down the dried mud and go over each side with progressively wider knives. It takes three days and three applications. There may be better ways, but this works OK. The big issue I had was using a prepared drywall compound. It was way too thick and would not spread nicely. I now mix my own.
 
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