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I mostly do low end tract homes, but my parents did a major reno and want me to paint their entirely new space about 1500 sq feet. Mostly new drywall, some new patch on ceilings to match new texture (light eggshell texture). They are in a million dollar custom home and don't want to skimp on the **** I usually use--and since it's family I need to get it right. Was thinking SW Duration matte for top, not sure which is the best primer option. Thoughts?

Using X7 sprayer to apply.
 

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I mostly do low end tract homes, but my parents did a major reno and want me to paint their entirely new space about 1500 sq feet. Mostly new drywall, some new patch on ceilings to match new texture (light eggshell texture). They are in a million dollar custom home and don't want to skimp on the **** I usually use--and since it's family I need to get it right. Was thinking SW Duration matte for top, not sure which is the best primer option. Thoughts?

Using X7 sprayer to apply.

1) upgrade your sprayer
2) superspec 253 + regal matte
 

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Not sure where you're located, but yes, upgrade your sprayer to a 490 (you'll love it).
The ceiling should be the deadest flat you can get.
Spray your trim, it will look amazing.
Tape can be your friend, don't think you're less of a painter using it.
'high end' homes are all about taking your time, and looking for the little things, those final touches.

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Assuming you're going with Sherwin I'd use master prep high build primer and Emerald Matte for the finish coats. Cost wise (for me) it's only $5 more a gallon than Duration and is a much nicer paint. Use promar ceiling paint for the ceilings and their Pro Industrial water based alkyd urethane on the trim.

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Regal matte all day, no second guessing. That’s a true matte. Whatever the sheen on a S-W can is, it’s always glossier when dry.


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I'd agree. Benjamin Moore Regal Matte is probably the best looking wall paint in the business.

I'd go BM Advance trim, BM Regal Matte on walls, and if the ceiling is prepped with good drywall work, go for BM 508 ceiling paint. It's super bright white. If the ceiling is so so, a cheaper SW ceiling paint like PM400/CHB/Masterhide would be best, due to being grayed out and more flat to hide flaws, though the room would be overall less bright compared to BM 508.

Primer on trim, probably would use a BM Fresh Start latex if the trim needs priming. On walls and ceilings, probably Zinsser Bullseye 1-2-3 or BM Seal Coat (BM's sort of Bullseye equivalent.) I like Bullseye as due to the slight sheen, it gives you a bit more open time on your top coats.

With Sherwin I've had more experience with Cashmere and like it, it levels smooth, but maybe Emerald Matte is good. Emerald Urethane is not bad and is very like BM Advance. I do usually use Sherwin Masterhide as ceiling paint due to the dead flat qualities hiding mediocre skimcoat or drywall work, but if your ceiling was super well prepped BM 508 does look better.
 

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I can't use Advance on a construction site. It stays wet for way too long. Other trades don't care, kicking dust up or bumping into stuff.

I need a trim paint that dries the same day I put it on.
 

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I can't use Advance on a construction site. It stays wet for way too long. Other trades don't care, kicking dust up or bumping into stuff.

I need a trim paint that dries the same day I put it on.
I had very good results with BM SCUFF-X on trim and kitchen cabinets.
I know it's not marketed by BM for kitchen cabinets and trim, but tons of painters use it and there is no avalanche of posts complaining about it.
I did kitchen cabinets repaints with it and 2 years later holds up perfectly.

No issue with hand oils affecting it's look or wear and tear as some suggested it might be happening.
Tons of painters switched from Advance to Scuff-X and they are happy with long term results.
Great paint from BM.

https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-ca/ultra-spec-scuff-x

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I can't use Advance on a construction site. It stays wet for way too long. Other trades don't care, kicking dust up or bumping into stuff.

I need a trim paint that dries the same day I put it on.
I had very good results with BM SCUFF-X on trim and kitchen cabinets.
I know it's not marketed by BM for kitchen cabinets and trim, but tons of painters use it and there is no avalanche of posts complaining about it.
I did kitchen cabinets repaints with it and 2 years later holds up perfectly.

No issue with hand oils affecting it's look or wear and tear as some suggested it might be happening.
Tons of painters switched from Advance to Scuff-X and they are happy with long term results.
Great paint from BM.

https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-ca/ultra-spec-scuff-x

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What sheen are you using on cabinets? Always concerned with those hand oils! I got burned by breakthrough.
 

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What sheen are you using on cabinets? Always concerned with those hand oils! I got burned by breakthrough.
I guess you are talking about the low VOC (50) Breakthrough, because few guys here are raving about the original formula of BT (250) VOC.
I can not get the "nasty":smile: good performer (250)VOC BT.

For the kitchen cabinets (and bathroom door repaint) customer decided on eggshell.
I was threatening her (with an old dried up paint brush) telling her to go for at least with the Satin, but she was stubborn,LOL, and overruled me.

I also did bathroom door with that Scuff-X eggshell, that previous 'genius' painted latex over oil.
I don't have too many pictures of this particular job, (I usually take many more pictures of different stages of the project, for the record and for the references of prep steps and materials used).

Other kitchen cabinet re-paint job using Scuff-X, I lost those pictures during physical fight with the customer.
(moron was insisting on using Sh-W or Behr paint).
BTW, I won that fight, and while he was in coma for a week in the intensive care unit I finished the job using proper paint.

Anyhow, back to the story...

I also take close up pictures of the major materials I used on the project.
Like; type of drywall mud, primer/sealer, top coat, etc, etc++. But this project is lacking that detail.

I primed kitchen cabinet doors (& the bathroom door) with STYX, and brush&roll two top coats of Scuff-X eggshell.
You need to work relatively fast with Scf-X, but the paint is not fighting you, like some paints do.

Here are couple of links in case you are not that familiar with it.

https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-ca...alog/ussxil/ultra-spec-scuff-x-interior-latex

https://thepaintpeople.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/20170227-K485-TDS_CAE_AppVF-rev.pdf


Interesting two years old thread on PT about Scuff-X.

Scuff x, your thoughts?

https://www.painttalk.com/f2/scuff-x-your-thoughts-88801/index2/
 

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BTW., before I proceeded with demoing to the customer how easily paint was coming off and there was no offensive smell from this particular paint softener/stripper SmartStrip.
I mean, there is some smell, but not as offensive like from solvent based paint strippers.
{{OR SOME OTHER ....STRIPPERS]]

And sometimes you don't want to go too deep like you can with the solvent based. Just on the top, just to the previous coat of paint, like in this case.

OK_OK, I got sidetracked...
reason I'm posting this is to make clear that I also placed some "drop sheet" on the remaining bare
parts of the floor.

In bathrooms (in small tight places) I like to use towels. Nice, soft, towels of various sizes.
They are very pliable and you can easily 'form' them around toilets or cabinets, & etc.,
I also put them on toilet tops.

I try to avoid using them later as my personal towels tho.

As to the quality of my pictures....s h ut up, lol, I'm using hand-cranked phone with few pixels missing.
BTW, in this bathroom on the ceiling (after installing new air fan) I was using this primer from Dulux, and left-over (of course in BM color -of- 'WhiteDove')
this chemical monstrosity as the top coat on the ceiling.

BTW-2.
I promptly [>behind his back,<] UP-CHARGED the customer for exposing me to "POTENTIALLY" poisonous elements.

BTW_No smileys in this post,...run out of wit


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BTW., \the reason I used the sexy-red BM bag on the ceiling -is to trigger the young couple customers to have more children.
THEY ALREADY \had two.
 

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Since I can not start new threads, I will post this here.
Very interesting new chemical technology paint.


What if paint could cool off a building enough to not need air conditioning?
Prof. Xiulin Ruan has pioneered radiative cooling paint; instead of absorbing sunlight, it radiates the heat back into space.
This actually cools surfaces below ambient temperature, something paint has never done before.


This white paint could reduce the need for air conditioning by keeping surfaces cooler than surroundings.
https://www.purdue.edu/newsroom/rel...eeping-surfaces-cooler-than-surroundings.html

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Since I can not start new threads, I will post this here.
Very interesting new chemical technology paint.


What if paint could cool off a building enough to not need air conditioning?
Prof. Xiulin Ruan has pioneered radiative cooling paint; instead of absorbing sunlight, it radiates the heat back into space.
This actually cools surfaces below ambient temperature, something paint has never done before.
Radiative Cooling Paint - YouTube


This white paint could reduce the need for air conditioning by keeping surfaces cooler than surroundings.
https://www.purdue.edu/newsroom/rel...eeping-surfaces-cooler-than-surroundings.html

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Sounds great for the global warming problem.
 
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