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· tsevnami
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2,189 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Such as duration or aura in the exterior variety. As professionals are we morally obligated to apply two coats, or is it acceptable to give the customers an "ultra premium" paint with a lower overall price tag? I did a job last year with just one coat of duration and it looks fine, did not need a second coat appearance wise. Is there going to be much less performance with just one coat?
 

· Rock On
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2,451 Posts
Though traditionally I have been of the Two Coats Only camp, the Duration has caused me to say One Coat for Maint. w/Duration
With the Aura Ext., so far it's looking pretty good to be a One Coat
The Factory says one coat
I'll need to use it a bit more, and see how it hold up out here (I'm basically 30 miles out in the Atlantic)
I am thinking my Old School ways are not up with New School Paints
Keeping in mind we have been told "One Coat" so many times before, and it was ....hogwash, it's tough to think out of that box (or can, as it were)
 

· Registered
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I may be labeled old school as well.
We do repaints, here along the Gulf of Mexico in Florida, and advocate a system that includes detailed pressure cleaning with fungicide/cleaners, a sealer/primer coat(on raw or exposed wood 2 coats), and two topcoats of Duration, Fortis, Permanizer, including the 100% acrylic top of of the line "regular paints".

We measure in "mils" (thousands of an inch), and expect to have a protective long lasting finish.

I feel it's the right way.
 

· The Lurker
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3,514 Posts
We spot spot prime and use one coat of Cabots ProVt and we get 6 to 8 years with out a problem. I have two coated with it in instances of a big color change and sometimes if the south side is really dried out cause client had not done it in over 8 years before we got there.

This is for repaint on ext rough cedar siding, mostly what we tackle around here.
 

· Registered
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We are doing an exterior repaint right now with Provt. Areas that are scraped heavily down to bare wood benefit from oil spot priming for film thickness. If you spot prime with the stain it absorbs much quicker into the scraped area than the surrounding intact areas. We have the best luck spot priming and feathering once with the stain before doing the whole final coat. This prevents low flash.
 

· The Lurker
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3,514 Posts
We are doing an exterior repaint right now with Provt. Areas that are scraped heavily down to bare wood benefit from oil spot priming for film thickness. If you spot prime with the stain it absorbs much quicker into the scraped area than the surrounding intact areas. We have the best luck spot priming and feathering once with the stain before doing the whole final coat. This prevents low flash.
Bingo!
 

· Rock On
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2,451 Posts
We've actually had a few discussions about this here and there, basically hijacking a couple of other threads
We haven't got a good answer from any lab guys yet
Perhaps it needs it's own thread to get their attention....
 

· Registered
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I think it goes without saying that oil based stains are penetrating, and latex stains are not. By nature, nothing water based is a penetrator. I think of my latex stains more like a self priming paint. And I still prefer to build film under them in scraping situations with a primer.
 

· The Lurker
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I am using basically Cabots ProVt as a flat paint. It does show the roughness on the cedar better. But ProVT is thicker than most flat paints I know. I would like to know why Cabot even calls it a stain anymore.

I am not putting ProVt on raw wood, and on the side of the cabot can it says to use the appropriate primer on tannin bleeding woods...
 
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